Torque Box Thoughts - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Torque Box Thoughts

Hey guys, I hope this is the right forum for this question. I have a 1968 Fastback that I am going through. Itís in good shape overall, but I have stripped the car down and have decided to go bottom up on the restoration with a restomod influence. The floors are in great shape except for the passenger side front pan has some small rust holes. Since I have to cut it out I will replace the torque box too with the Dynacorn two piece unit. The driver side floor pan is in pristine condition. I need to replace the torque box on the driver side too since the bottom portion of the box is showing the usual rust an corrosion issues. My question is will I have to cut the floor pan to replace the torque box or can it be done without access to the top part of the box? I am using the two piece box on the driver side as well. Since the floor looks so good, I was hoping the top part of the torque box would be in good shape as well so it could stay intact. Is it possible to separate the factory bottom part of the box and just replace that portion? Even if the entire box needs to be replaced, can it be done without cutting open the floor plan and toe board? I appreciate the advice. Thanks

Last edited by jbsolomon; 03-20-2017 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Misspelled word
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:08 AM
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I have pieced torque boxes together, not problem. But it's not an easy chore. I would try and leave as much as you can. I like that approach as well. I would say tackle the right side first, then decide on your approach to the left side. You would know your capabilities at that point.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks PetesPonies. That's a good idea. I really don't want to cut open a nice floor to get to the torque box.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:28 AM
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I don't know about '68 but on my '69 the a torque box flange is sandwiched in between the toe board and the frame rail.

John Fisher
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm. That would make things a bit more complicated. It's times like these I start to miss my 69 Camaro. Very easy to work on.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 01:53 PM
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When patching the TB, you don't need to reconstruct it exactly as it was originally done. Therefore you can cut out what is bad and weld the replacement piece in. That sandwiched flange is of no concern IMO.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:05 PM
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Just a little note before you do the work. Take a good look at the two piece torque box, (BTW good choice using two piece vs one piece) The inner panel that welds to the bottom of the foot board, there is a flange on the rocker panel side that faces upward which is designed to go through the floor and weld (from inside the car) to the floor board and rocker panel. Yes, they expect you to cut your floor pan to install these boxes. To avoid cutting your good floor, you can take that flange and bend it 180 downward so you weld it to the bottom of the floorboard at the inside rocker. Then do a little trimming of the outer panel flange at the bottom end to fit. The end result is the same, and avoids compromising the integrity of the floor pan.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Claudemiro and Groho for the tips!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:37 PM
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And I agree . . .A torque box is heavy gauge, so welding in a section is pretty easy. On my personal '68 1/2, I had to do a patch on the right TB. I didn't even have to replace the entire lower piece, just a section of it. Recently, I did a '69 convertible. I had to replace the entire lower section on that one, but didn't touch the upper part or the floor over it.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:55 PM
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Installing a torque box without disturbing the floor or firewall is no problem (the 'toe board is actually part of the firewall). Use the two-piece torque box and install it one piece at a time from underneath.
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Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:35 PM
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Years ago, when I bought torque boxes, I chose the ones that were already welded together(wish I had not). They were missing the flange that goes between the frame rail and toeboard, flanges were bent the wrong way, etc. My conclusion is they were designed to be installed on cars with perfect floors where the owner doesn't want to cut the floors. The two-piece units have the flanges and such and seem more suitable to be used by people cutting out the toeboards, also. Maybe someone that has held all the various styles in their hand can shed some light on this.....

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your input. This was very helpful and at least makes me think I can salvage my good floor.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 03:13 PM
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Has anyone installed TB's on a finished, show quality car? It appears possible to do this without removing any floor or firewall (foot tray) sheet metal, and with the fenders on the car. Thoughts?
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