'67 Mustang Convertible - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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'67 Mustang Convertible

Hello, No pics yet. Just doing some research. Gotta a ton of questions. Just joined. My name is Mike. Heres a tried and trued question... rebulid the 289 or crate motor? Not a 289 A code hypo, just a plain jane original 289 2 barre.l
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:02 PM
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Welcome. My engine builder of my orig 390 for my 67 vert told me, IF someone needs to have an engine sent out to be rebuilt vs crate engine buy, if looking for nothing fancy, cheaper to buy crate engine. Those do come with some sort of warranty as well. Assuming you don't have the time or knowledge to do rebuild yourself?

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:17 PM
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So....what is a direct bolt in no switching anything crate to replace a 289?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzz1232 View Post
Hello, No pics yet. Just doing some research. Gotta a ton of questions. Just joined. My name is Mike. Here's a tried and true question... rebuild the 289 or crate motor? Not a 289 A code hypo, just a plain jane original 289 2 barre.l

Rebuilding is always best, if it is original.

You have a C code 289 2V. The 289 4V was the A code, the 289 High Performance was the K code. A very rare and special beast.

However, the 65-present 289/302 engines are essentially interchangeable. A brand-new crate motor could even be dressed as a stock 289, and it would be difficult to tell from the original.

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:39 PM
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:01 PM
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Comes down to: Do you want to keep the car original? Then if it has the original motor, you ought to get it rebuilt. Planning on some modifications? Then buy a crate engine. Most likely it will be a few years newer 302

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 08:38 PM
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The factors that come into play here are:

1. Is the original 289 block and heads serviceable for a rebuild? There needs to be enough cylinder wall thickness remaining after a bore and hone to provide strength and adequately absorb heat. The heads need to be undamaged and able to accept new valve guides and seats and to be resurfaced.

2. Beyond the above, it comes down to whether you want to use the original components or substitutes. Notice that I don't say "new", because almost all "budget" crate motors use seasoned (used) blocks typically bored .030" oversize, those that are stock rebuilds use seasoned (used) heads, they use reground (used) crankshafts and connecting rods that have been made serviceable through machining. Not that this is at all a BAD thing...there is plenty of life left in such components and the cast components actually benefit from the stability provided by the many heat cycles they have been through. It also comes down to your budget as well as your personal preferences.

I'd hate to scrap a decent 289 block.... it's virtually identical to the latest '01-produced 5.0 Explorer/Mountaineer block other than some minor revisions and, IMHO, benefits from a little more mass around the crankshaft main webbing. It can be machined to accept the later one-piece rear main seal and with "dog-bone" lifters or reduced base-circle camshafts can run roller lifters as well, if that's your thing.


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