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I didn't budget $1,100 for BOLTS!! LOL

3K views 35 replies 21 participants last post by  Redneckgearhead 
#1 ·
Jeez, I was thinking it would be nice to buy new bolts/Screws in the pre-bagged systems from AMK. How much could it be?? Added them up and $1,100+ for everything.... Seems a little steep to me. Still tempting though but most of the non structural stuff is in good shape.
 
#3 ·
Well, maybe, but you'd need the Master Chassis kit, Master Body kit, Master Engine kit, and Master Interior kit. I'd be surprised if that came to a grand, but not too surprised.

However, I have added up the fasteners in AMK kits, and compared them to generic hardware, and it's not that much more. Add to that the oddball lengths you have to trim them to, plus all the unique stuff that no hardware supplier can provide, and the AMK kits are a pretty good deal.
 
#4 ·
So do most people put all new hardware on??/ Stuff like fender bolts, bumper bolts, interior hardware, etc... I spent a lot of time bagging and tagging what I took off and just thought I'd reuse it, but now that everything else is getting clean and new like, I am looking at the old dirty hardware and having second thoughts.
 
#5 ·
That's really according to what you are looking for. You can use a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it and clean up what you have and save some money or you can buy the kits and get a "concours" look. I would say it would be how the car is being built. But again, it's what you are wanting.

Allen
 
#7 ·
Could just always chuck em in some vinegar if you wanted to clean them up some. I usually just spray with some WD-40 and whatever that does is good enough.

I've reused almost all of my hardware when possible. Half of it isn't original as PO just used whatever they had laying around, but if it bolts up and stays bolted and appears to be happy... whatever! There's only a few things on the car that are torqued tight enough to cause any kind of actual stretch/pressure on the fastener so I don't worry about it.
 
#13 ·
Not too surprised, the cost of bolts/fasteners can add up real quick. ARP head studs are $210, intake manifold studs $60, and a SINGLE ARP armonic balancer bolt is $25. $300 for some really basic but important bolts.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Keep in mind when you clean up old nuts and bolts you no longer have the original rust inhibitive coating. The bolts will rust and corrode much quicker than a new bolt

Rick
 
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#19 ·
Keep in mind when you clean up old nuts and bolts you no longer have the original rust inhibitive coating. The bolts will rust and corrode much quicker than a new bolt

Yes, something to consider for sure.

Rick
Thanks for pointing this out.
Sorry to bring up the subject!:wink: Maybe some thing s better left unsaid....

Sorting, cleaning and re-conditioning/plating original fasteners, ALL of them, can be pretty time-consuming. So there's the value of your time, and if you go so far to plate/finish, there's expense.

Add to that the reality that only a certain percentage of cars are actually still holding-on to 100% of their "original/correct" fasteners anyhow. It's typically a hodgepodge of originals, and previous-owner-installed hardware-store stuff.

It adds up, but it sure makes the process easier, and the end-product nicer.
Good points. I have a lot more money than time and it is tempting to press the easy button and get all new bolts, but on the other hand I get some sadistic satisfaction restoring the 50 year old original stuff.>:)
 
#16 ·
If you can reuse/recondition your old stuff go for it...

Most of mine was toast so I needed the entire car replacement kit. Cool thing is that everything was labeled, fit, and "popped" having that brand new look (Nothing like having everything painted/replaced and then using crappy looking old bolts - looks odd to me)...
 
#17 ·
Thanks for pointing this out. I had purchased all of the master kits over time but I had never added up all of the pieces. When I read this, I said that can't really be true - but it is. If my wife ever finds out I spend over $1,100 on nuts and bolts I'm in for a lot of grief. Who would have thought. But, in the end it has been nice to have new fasteners that are organized and labeled. Saved a lot of time and grunt work.
 
#18 ·
Sorting, cleaning and re-conditioning/plating original fasteners, ALL of them, can be pretty time-consuming. So there's the value of your time, and if you go so far to plate/finish, there's expense.

Add to that the reality that only a certain percentage of cars are actually still holding-on to 100% of their "original/correct" fasteners anyhow. It's typically a hodgepodge of originals, and previous-owner-installed hardware-store stuff.

It adds up, but it sure makes the process easier, and the end-product nicer.
 
#21 ·
I represented a fastener manufacturer back in the day. We had a min fab/ship 100,000 pcs. (NOT a typo). To buy tooling for the correct headstamps, head the part, roll the threads,heat treat and plate was all predicated on that minimum. To do what AMK and the
other specialty suppliers do, I think you get my drift if they are only buying only 1 or 2 thousand pieces.
Second part of the equation is you are getting the correct GRADE. When we did the engine transplant in my 65, the pressure plate
was held on by grade 2 fasteners. Folks, these are meant for swing sets and steel shelving, not an assembly rotating at around
3-4 thousand RPM. Last caution, a very large percentage of the fasteners sold at retail, imports, are NOT what they are said to be.
The US Government, many years ago purged their entire inventory of repair fasteners, as they found out the system had
been contaminated with "phony grade 8" fasteners, many of which went into aircraft. I purchased all new fasteners when the
engine went in, and I am glad I did.
 
#23 ·
Yes I was experimenting was a few things including metal etch (phosphoric) and a rust dissolver gel which also has phosphoric and they came out great and black as expected. Probably like evapo-rust which I have also heard great things about.
 
#26 ·
I used new fasteners on the "in your face" places, like fenders where you can see them as soon as you open the hood, etc.
I restored everything that didn't snap - wire wheel to get the surface rust off, soaked in "rust dissolver" products containing phosphoric acid, rinsed with water, dried with a heat gun, then soaked overnight in WD-40. If you soak them long enough in a phosphoric product, they'll be "parkerized" (sp?) meaning they'll have that black coating. Also, when I re-assembled everything, I brushed the fasteners with anti-seize. I didn't want any "arguments" if I had to get them out again for whatever reason.
This tuna can of restored headlight adjusters saved me $300.
 

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#32 ·
To clear something up. Phosphate coating is exactly that, phosphate and nothing else, like fertilizer. It is a very porous coating
and absorbs oil, the oil is what prevents rust, short term. Fords anti corrosion specification S2 is called"phos and oil, it will
withstand neutral salt spray ASBTM13 for 24 hrs. It is rarely used in any interior application because of the oil getting on
fabrics or leather. If you research the original FOMOCO drawings (I was an engineer at Ford) you will be shocked at how
many fasteners had an "S" finish. That is NO coating or plating.
 
#33 ·
Great info! Thanks. Since my vert may never see the rain...EVER, I think I am good, especially living in sunny, low humidity California. As for many bolts having no coating, I guess that does not surprise me seeing how these cars were put together.
 
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