'66 Coupe purchase. - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:01 AM Thread Starter
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'66 Coupe purchase.

Drove up to north Georgia and put some $ down on this car last night. It's a C-code with the original 2V 289 auto, a near flawless body, Classic Auto Air recently installed, SSBC front disc that don't even have the crosshatch gone from the rotors yet, deluxe interior (added, including courtesy lights in the doors and deluxe steering wheel [which I'll sell]), and a new set of chrome '68 12-hole GT wheels (which I'll also sell). But boy!, is the engine soft. The guy jetted it up because it was running warm with the a/c on. I'm thinking timing. Never drove a 289 this weak. But I'm certain that it's sound and that with some tuning it will wake up. I didn't realize how strong the engine was in the car I just sold.

I have two sets of '65 289 A-code heads. Is there enough difference to consider having them reworked and installing them? What's the max RPM when using push-in studs?

Also, it has dual pipes, but no crossover. What improvement will adding the crossover make? Noticeable? Will that require a jetting change?
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 06:38 AM
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But boy!, is the engine soft. The guy jetted it up because it was running warm with the a/c on. I'm thinking timing. Never drove a 289 this weak. But I'm certain that it's sound and that with some tuning it will wake up. I didn't realize how strong the engine was in the car I just sold.
Compatibility of carb, cam, and exhaust is critical. And I'll bet the distributor curves have never been looked at. That alone might make the difference. Really.

I have two sets of '65 289 A-code heads. Is there enough difference to consider having them reworked and installing them? What's the max RPM when using push-in studs?
A code and C code use the same heads. Press-in studs should only be used with stock or very mild cams. The cam determines the max. With the C3AZ-V, about 5300 is it.

Also, it has dual pipes, but no crossover. What improvement will adding the crossover make? Noticeable? Will that require a jetting change?
Ford installed the crosstube because it was a virtually free 15 extra horsepower, improve fuel economy, and made the engine sound smoother. What's not to like? And no, it will not change your carb requirements. Of course, as you say, the PO may have screwed up the carb. What carb is it?

Amateur restorer. Well, sometimes I have been paid for it. But not right now.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 06:56 AM
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Your patience has paid off, sounds like a great car to start enjoying while fixing small things and improving others! I had straight duals for a while but didn't like the pop pop pop sound i could hear, an exhaust shop could splice in a cross over pipe pretty easy...of course you could buy repo hipo manifolds, maybe an arvinode system, and while your at it...........
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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The carb is whatever it came with. The car is showing 79K miles and the PO says that he's not too sure but that isn't correct. You couldn't really ask for a straighter, cleaner body. The wife loves it. And that Classic Auto Air, using the factory heater controls is really slick.

I'm going to take it to a muffler shop and get the crossover scabbed in. It has glass-pack mufflers, which I don't care for, that make the "pop-pop" even more pronounced. But, like the comment said, "fix the small things and improve others."

Seems like the steering box could use adjustment or a kit. I'm accustomed to a 16:1 box, with manual steering, that had been redone and it was a dream for me. Tight and so full of road feel. Had the 1' bar too, which I'll have to install on this one.

But, probably just going to drive it for a while before doing much of anything. But I've got to get into the engine tune.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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I picked up the car last night and drove it the 60 miles home. The drive confirmed my initial impressions about the engine. What a dog. I honestly think my 2000 Corolla with 285K miles will outrun it. On the plus side, it's the most rattle free old Mustang I've ever driven. The a/c works very well and those brakes are fantastic. It drives and tracks very well, but the steering box needs gone through.

Even with a quite large aluminum radiator and electric fan (set to run constantly), it tends to run toward the warm end of the gauge. That, to me, along with the poor performance, indicates a timing issue. It has the Petronix conversion, no points.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 05:55 AM
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I would start with a good tune-up and compression test to see what you really have.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, Lan, that would be the obvious starting point. Then I've got to do a timing test.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 10:09 AM
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Running the fan continuously is the PO's attempt at a band-aid to fix an overheating problem. Once the car is going down the road at 20-30 mph there is more air blowing through the radiator than a fan could ever pull through it.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by awhtx View Post
Running the fan continuously is the PO's attempt at a band-aid to fix an overheating problem. Once the car is going down the road at 20-30 mph there is more air blowing through the radiator than a fan could ever pull through it.
That's probably true. Frankly, I wouldn't be surprised if, at speed, the fan is an impediment to airflow.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Just did a compression test on the cylinders that are the easiest to get to; 1, 4, 7 & 8. 120+ on all and all right at that mark.
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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rose62 View Post
I picked up the car last night and drove it the 60 miles home. The drive confirmed my initial impressions about the engine. What a dog. I honestly think my 2000 Corolla with 285K miles will outrun it. On the plus side, it's the most rattle free old Mustang I've ever driven. The a/c works very well and those brakes are fantastic. It drives and tracks very well, but the steering box needs gone through.

Even with a quite large aluminum radiator and electric fan (set to run constantly), it tends to run toward the warm end of the gauge. That, to me, along with the poor performance, indicates a timing issue. It has the Petronix conversion, no points.
I hope it is just a timing issue and not an overbored engine. Keep that possibility in the back of your mind when diagnosing the problem.


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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by evantugby View Post
I hope it is just a timing issue and not an overbored engine. Keep that possibility in the back of your mind when diagnosing the problem.
If it's bored, I would hope that it would run better than it does, even if it is running warm!
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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 08:50 AM
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More pics please!!

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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Photos

A few pics. The back is so high that it looks ridiculous. And, I HATE chrome valve covers. But, all in time. The wheels and tires, by the way, are for sale. So is the steering wheel.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 66 2.jpg (76.7 KB, 82 views)
File Type: jpg 66 3.jpg (69.4 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg 66 4.jpg (80.5 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg 66 5.jpg (62.7 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg 66 6.jpg (72.7 KB, 71 views)

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 02:30 PM
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I hate Chrome valve covers too....except actual '65-'66 "Hi-Po" Valve covers. The Concours Repros of them are pretty good too.. All the rest I can do without..

It looks like someone went nutty with the Custom Wood look on the Dash cluster, Console and Glovebox!! Those '69 GT Wheels look ridiculous too on the car. It all must go! The rest of the car really looks nice and solid though.. Nice Score!

)



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