Shelby drop - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Shelby drop

Has anyone in the PNW area had the Shelby Drop done on their car. Looking for a shop that does it. Maybe yall know of a good place to recommend? Not afraid of distance (within reason). Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 11:15 PM
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I know of a couple places in Marysville if you have no recommendations
closer to you .

No interest in doing the job yourself?

Mike

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 11:32 PM
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A jack, spring compressor, some wrenches, ratchets/dockets, heavy duty drill and a few strong bits and you can do it yourself. I'm sure it'd be a high labor rate on that job due to the removal of the front suspension...
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 02:49 AM
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If you have a free weekend some tools and any mechanical ability you can do it yourself
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:05 AM
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I live in the Seattle area and did it to my 65 fastback. If you need some help one weekend let me know, it's not too difficult to do by yourself.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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I just don't feel comfortable doing the job myself. I can travel to wherever.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:13 PM
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I think if you buy the metal templates from Street or Track you'll have the confidence to do it. you literally bolt the template to the stock location, drill the hole. remount using new hole. you can even leave the template in.

however, any shop can do it for you. but i'd wait until you're changing your shocks or springs to reduce the double dip in labor.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:50 PM
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As you know, the Arning drop is a simple mod. Any competent shop that does alignments has the tools to do it. Maybe a local shop would do it. If you find one that will, have a thorough inspection of all the steering and suspension done beforehand. New upper control arms, spring perches, shocks and other items may be necessary.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cougar70 View Post
As you know, the Arning drop is a simple mod. Any competent shop that does alignments has the tools to do it. Maybe a local shop would do it. If you find one that will, have a thorough inspection of all the steering and suspension done beforehand. New upper control arms, spring perches, shocks and other items may be necessary.
When I was in college going to a trade school for automotive I had my suspension quarter and brought my car in. I replaced literally everything minus the gear box and power cylinder

And just recently I replaced the control valve. It's all within 4 years of age. With roughly 1000 miles on it
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 07:30 AM
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The templates move the new pivot locations along the existing plane of the upper and lower ball joints. Has anyone thought of moving the hole straight down or even somewhat less forward so that increased caster would be built in?
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 10:43 AM
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The templates move the new pivot locations along the existing plane of the upper and lower ball joints. Has anyone thought of moving the hole straight down or even somewhat less forward so that increased caster would be built in?
I believe the 65-66 template does exactly what you are describing, if I understand what you are saying. In addition to the 1" drop, it also shifts the hole 1/8" rearward which places it almost directly below the original hole. The later model template is not the same.


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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rose62 View Post
The templates move the new pivot locations along the existing plane of the upper and lower ball joints. Has anyone thought of moving the hole straight down or even somewhat less forward so that increased caster would be built in?
What year is the car ? 65/66 Down an inch and back an 1/8
67+ down an inch


https://www.google.com/search?q=shel...e4E-PtovLhfxM:

Here is a good thread on the subject
shelby drop: which effects on caster and bump steer?


Last edited by 2nd 66; 04-09-2017 at 10:53 AM.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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The templates move the new pivot locations along the existing plane of the upper and lower ball joints. Has anyone thought of moving the hole straight down or even somewhat less forward so that increased caster would be built in?

If someone was to do the 65-66 on a 67 to get caster what issues would happen. Or just moving the holes off set an 1/8"
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 11:10 AM
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If someone was to do the 65-66 on a 67 to get caster what issues would happen. Or just moving the holes off set an 1/8"
Control arm clearance becomes an issue at the rear portion of the shock tower

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 04:10 PM
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The '66 that I just bought really howls through the turns and feels like it's on tippy toes. Narrow tires are one culprit, but I'm sure the camber curve is out-to-lunch. Gonna have to address this asap. Big anti-roll bar and control arm relocation. THEN, steering box upgrade.
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