Roller 5.0 into a '66 - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Roller 5.0 into a '66

Can the long block be stripped and all the 289 stuff, timing cover, water pump, oil sump, intake, etc be bolted to a roller 5.0?
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:29 PM
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Roller 5.0 into a '66

Yes. You will also have to change your oil pump pickup tube and plug the dipstick hole on the block with a freeze plug. You will also need a 50oz balancer that will accept your 3 bolt crank pulley. They are available from summit.

Last edited by Riley; 04-11-2017 at 08:32 PM.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:32 PM
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Are you going to run a serpentine belt? If so, the 5.0 reverse rotation water pump must be used.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:48 PM
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Yeah, I have an '80 302 in mine and am using all of the front accessories. I bought a harmonic balancer from summit that was drilled for both the 3 bolt and four bolt balancers and a new oil pickup tube as said above. Pretty much everything else just swaps right over.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 08:58 PM
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It might look something like this 1991 roller motor...

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Last edited by 66kcar; 04-11-2017 at 09:01 PM.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rose62 View Post
Can the long block be stripped and all the 289 stuff, timing cover, water pump, oil sump, intake, etc be bolted to a roller 5.0?

Got my GT40P up and running in my 66
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 09:41 PM
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Good deal!! Sounds sweet.........Hope you explain about the standard long tubes on GT-P heads.
I've been "drink'in-the-kool-aid" about how the plug angle won't allow the use of regular headers.
Thanks for stomp'in that myth!!
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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I've been tuning on this 2V, 289 since I got the car. Flipped the reluctor in the dist and got all the timing it can use (and then some, gonna have to get some tighter springs!). It runs ok, but if I throw a 4V carb on it and start driving it harder it's not going to hold up with stock rod bolts and push-in studs. And there's no telling, without an indicator, what cam is in it or what the CR is. And by the time I add some improved heads and rod bolts, I could buy a 5.0 roller with some life left in it. What about the distributor with a roller cam? Isn't there some consideration regarding gear compatibility?

Boy!, I really never knew how well the blue car ran!

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 07:38 AM
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I've been tuning on this 2V, 289 since I got the car. Flipped the reluctor in the dist and got all the timing it can use (and then some, gonna have to get some tighter springs!). It runs ok, but if I throw a 4V carb on it and start driving it harder it's not going to hold up with stock rod bolts and push-in studs. And there's no telling, without an indicator, what cam is in it or what the CR is. And by the time I add some improved heads and rod bolts, I could buy a 5.0 roller with some life left in it. What about the distributor with a roller cam? Isn't there some consideration regarding gear compatibility?

Boy!, I really never knew how well the blue car ran!

I'm going to say since it's a 2V 289 that it has a stock cam and stock compression. The factory advertised compression is something like 9.2 or 9.4:1 IIRC but it's probably close to a full point lower IMO. One of the big limiting factors in making power and reving are the heads in stock form. They're not going to make a lot of power much above 4K RPM. Putting a big cam in without some other work isn't going to do too much. The best thing to do would be cleaning up the ports a little bit especially on the exhaust side, good valve job or maybe even a set of larger 351W valves. GT22 has a good post on modifying the stock heads, hopefully he'll post it.

You could go with aftermarket aluminum heads but they'll designed more for the 5.0 to maintain their stock compression of about 9:1. The chamber volume is generally in the 60 to 65 CC range while most 289s are 55 CC. You'll gain power over all with them with their improved flow but looking from a half to potentially a full point of compression it'll probably make the low end a little soggy. For a mild street 289 with a little head work and mild cam there's no need to rev the engine that high where you need bigger rod bolts threaded rocker arm studs if the engine is in good shape. I would stick with a mild RV type cam and clean up the bumps in the exhaust ports along with a good valve job and you'll have a nice running motor.

You're right a roller cam motor can be a very cost effective swap but honestly I think they're getting a little long in the tooth. The last Mustang 5.0 OHV motor was 22 years ago. The last,Explorer with the 5.0 OHV was 16 years ago and those are going to be the P version and they were from about mid 97 to 01. But the roller cam motors do hold up pretty well. Even a 150K mile motor will have a lot of life left. What I like about the roller motors is with their roller cam, you can pick up a used performance cam fairly cheap and reuse your existing tappets with no issues or break in problems. There's a lot of inexpensive used performance parts available.

As far as the distributor gear, read my post in the link. There's a lot of good info on what's needed. My GT40P runs pretty well for a pile of cheap used parts.

Tom

I'm not a complete idiot, pieces are missing.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of useful info there Huski. I never installed the tach I bought for my other car but will do so in this one. Probably never turned it as high as I think I did. But I do like the security of screw-in studs. And as for the rod bolts, I wasn't thinking oversized, just some 5/16" ARP Wavelocs. Cheap insurance.

Dover Cylinder Heads, very near my work, quoted me $650 to work a set of '65 heads that I have. That was vatting, guides, milling, 3-angle valve job, hardened seats and installing studs that I supply. Again, I can buy an entire 5.0 for that (less actually). But I do like the idea of those heads on my engine, just an impractical preference that has little to do with anything.

I still have some cheap tricks up my sleeve for this one before I give up. And financially, I'll have to do them before I take a Big Gulp on another engine or a set of heads and/or a cam. A 4V + intake and an H-pipe might wake it up more than I expect, and that's the direction I'll go first. And again, I'm probably willing to settle for less performance than the average guy simply coz I know that I'll never use it. Two hundred at the rear wheels and 280-300 lb/ft are, to me, quite sufficient. Brisk acceleration from a stop and good 55-75 for passing is all I really require.

Last edited by rose62; 04-12-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 10:26 AM
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I had my 289 2V running really strong by the time I decided to start over with a stroker.

It was a bunch of work though. As indicated the modern heads (I went with AFR 165s at 58 cc) are going to kill the CR, so I had to change the pistons to pop-up style to get my CR back up around 10:1. Those heads along with a decent cam and a good intake/4 barrel carb and headers REALLY woke up that engine. My C4 lasted right at 2 weeks after that. LOL

It just never ends with these things.

Have fun!

Phil
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 10:30 AM
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Are you going to run a serpentine belt? If so, the 5.0 reverse rotation water pump must be used.
This is actually not true. I literally jsut went through this situation. I have a reverse rotation timing cover with a standard rotation water pump. No PS or AC. This is the pump I used to solve the reverse timing cover/standard rotation water pump issue: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmb-125-1700p
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Actually, Ice, I will continue using the V-belt setup as I have an aftermarket A/C system with associated pulleys that I prefer not to change. Hence, my original question about using everything from the 289.

As an aside, what are the opinions regarding the possibility of achieving the aforementioned hp/torque numbers with a stock C-code short block, changing only the intake/carb, adding an H-pipe and maybe a cam and valve springs?

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceotron View Post
This is actually not true. I literally jsut went through this situation. I have a reverse rotation timing cover with a standard rotation water pump. No PS or AC. This is the pump I used to solve the reverse timing cover/standard rotation water pump issue: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gmb-125-1700p

This ^^^^ Hot Rod Magazine either last month or the month before had a great article on it.

Tom

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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 07:34 PM
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"I have an aftermarket A/C system with associated pulleys that I prefer not to change"

I was using a serpentine and added ac. I went back to the vbelts for the reason you mentioned. I went back and used the standard rotation pump.
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