STOCK+ build NOT STROKER - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation STOCK+ build NOT STROKER

To give some back up on the subject. My dad went nuts and he wants to rebuild my stock 32.000mile engine that does NOT need rebuilt.

To the point now. I want to build a stock bore ( budget ish frendy) 69 351w. I would like to get maybe 350-370 hp from it. The current engine is a stock 2V. I will get a carb 600cfm+ intake combo from summit. The rest of the build is blank.

limiting factors: - cant change are the heads. BUT i can have them ported cause its cheap for me.
-stock crankshaft.
- pump gas

What do you all recomend?
-Pistons
-Cam
-Connecting rod
-Oil pump
etc

If there are similar builds to what I want post them!
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:21 PM
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Pistons...........flat tops for simplicity
Keep your rods but have them re-conditioned(re-sized) and use ARP bolts
Replace oil pump with stock replacement Melling or equiv.
Camshaft..... I'd use a custom because they are almost the same price as OTS cams and you can get what you want.
Duration about 230/240 intake.....236/246 exhaust
Lift 500-ish
LSA.....110 or less(the less you go...the more snotty it will idle) 110 or less will give power from 2000rpm to 6000rpm roughly Right where you want to be for street use. (What?!! you planning on keeping it above 5 or6 grand for long periods of time?!!)
MAKE SURE you re-curve the distrib what ever you do!!
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 06:34 PM
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if its not smoking or burning oil, leave it alone. Either your dad knows something you don't, or you need to check his medication. You can get a complete rebuild kit for a 351 from a number of online businesses, stick to someone like Summitracing. For $400 you can get a complete kit, minus cam/lifter/intake/heads, that reuses your rods and crank. If you're determined to rebuild, pull you motor and take measurements of the crank and cylinders, than order a kit based on needed machine work to the block and new size bearings. Why rebuild a motor when it doesn't need it? spend that money someplace else like interior, brakes.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:25 PM
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If you're not changing the heads, I wouldn't bother. Those are the most important parts.

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1969 MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8:1 comp
TFS 205cc 11R heads || Victor Jr. intake || 950 Holley HP carb || 110* 236/240 .573/.594 hyd roller cam || 1 3/4" ceramic coated headers || 3" exhaust, x-pipe || 14" 6 piston front and 13" 4 piston rear Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hydraulic clutch || 9" Detroit Locker || 3.70 gears || MSD 6AL-2 || PST Aluminum DS || many more.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 07:41 PM
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Leave it alone. If you want more power put a 4 barrel on it and dual exhaust. Then change the gears to 3.50's or something close. Is this your driver or a hobby car?

69 Mach One, 428CJ, Legend 5 Speed, 3.91's.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:37 PM
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I'm with the EvilTwin. The big bottleneck is the cylinder head. Sure, a DIY port and port match will definitely help, in addition to an aftermarket aluminum intake and 4V carb (I'd go with a 650-670) and a camshaft that's strong on torque from 1,500 rpm and up. I wouldn't mess with the bottom end unless going with larger aftermarket heads.

Now, from a practicality standpoint.... do you want more/quicker acceleration? It's TORQUE that provides that. Horsepower is going to determine how FAST you go, not how quickly you get there. Many times you'll find that the switch from 2V to 4V might not gain you all that much and with the wrong cam may actually COST you some low end torque and throttle response.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groho View Post
if its not smoking or burning oil, leave it alone. Either your dad knows something you don't, or you need to check his medication. You can get a complete rebuild kit for a 351 from a number of online businesses, stick to someone like Summitracing. For $400 you can get a complete kit, minus cam/lifter/intake/heads, that reuses your rods and crank. If you're determined to rebuild, pull you motor and take measurements of the crank and cylinders, than order a kit based on needed machine work to the block and new size bearings. Why rebuild a motor when it doesn't need it? spend that money someplace else like interior, brakes.
Ive seen this kit, but i noticed they recomened them for the 1980s engines. Do they fit the 69? The rebuild is because of the stubbornness of my father
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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If you're not changing the heads, I wouldn't bother. Those are the most important parts.

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Originally Posted by Woodchuck View Post
I'm with the EvilTwin. The big bottleneck is the cylinder head. Sure, a DIY port and port match will definitely help, in addition to an aftermarket aluminum intake and 4V carb (I'd go with a 650-670) and a camshaft that's strong on torque from 1,500 rpm and up. I wouldn't mess with the bottom end unless going with larger aftermarket heads.

Now, from a practicality standpoint.... do you want more/quicker acceleration? It's TORQUE that provides that. Horsepower is going to determine how FAST you go, not how quickly you get there. Many times you'll find that the switch from 2V to 4V might not gain you all that much and with the wrong cam may actually COST you some low end torque and throttle response.
Well im not looking for 400hp. Arent the 69 heads pretty good up 350hp with porting pretty much the same as the gt40p? I want some over all performance gain. Maybe a re-ring kit is enough plus the porting, carb and a cam? What do you think
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 11:20 PM
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just remember to pick parts that are compatible with the rpm range you intend to run the engine in 80% of the time.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 11:25 PM
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Nothing much makes as big of a difference as compression. 9.5cr is about as much that todays pump gas will support.
Mill the heads or pistons......your call.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:56 AM
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the con rods are fine just put ARP wave lock bolts in. Put a 700 cfm double pumpe on it. An air gap intake.

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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 6sally6 View Post
Nothing much makes as big of a difference as compression. 9.5cr is about as much that todays pump gas will support.
Mill the heads or pistons......your call.
6sally6
I'm assuming you mean for iron heads. I run 10.8cr on 91 with no issues.

1969 MaCh 1 - CHP 427w 10.8:1 comp
TFS 205cc 11R heads || Victor Jr. intake || 950 Holley HP carb || 110* 236/240 .573/.594 hyd roller cam || 1 3/4" ceramic coated headers || 3" exhaust, x-pipe || 14" 6 piston front and 13" 4 piston rear Wilwood brakes || T56 Magnum || SPEC 2+ hydraulic clutch || 9" Detroit Locker || 3.70 gears || MSD 6AL-2 || PST Aluminum DS || many more.

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:59 AM
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Sigh.....lots of crazy talk in here.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:14 AM
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IF you do get into it, in addition to the other recommendations, roller rockers and verify hardened valve seats. Roller rockers won't even require head removal.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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the con rods are fine just put ARP wave lock bolts in. Put a 700 cfm double pumpe on it. An air gap intake.
isnt this a bit overkill for a basically stock internal engine?
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