Tire rub after Shelby drop & coil cut - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Tire rub after Shelby drop & coil cut

I just completed the Shelby drop (bought a template, so don't think I could have messed it up). Also cut one whole coil off the stock springs. Achieved the stance I was going for, but now I have a severe tire rub on the driver's side only. It bottoms out on the fender when turning. Passenger side experiences no rub at all. Driver's side was 1/4" lower than passenger side, then I played with camber and it is currently 3/4" lower.
Rub is so severe that I don't even want to drive it to the alignment shop. My question is, would an alignment be enough to possibly correct this? If so, I could throw on a spare and limp it to the shop.

Also, when I play around with the eccentric on the LCA, it seems to cause the tires to toe out more vs adjust camber. The front end up looking pigeon toed rather than negatively cambered. I was hopeful enough camber would help me out...

Other options are
1) different backspace wheels (will change wheels eventually, not ready right now)
2) shorter tires? Currently have 225/70/14 up front, could switch to 205/70/14...
3) Insulator on spring to raise drivers side slightly (don't want to... I like this stance)

Would like to avoid these options if possible. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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Also, I have rolled the fender lip... This has done nothing. The tire will still hit the fender itself.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:15 PM
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You used the stock springs? As in 50 year old springs?
If yes, there's your problem. I have a Shelby drop on my 66, 1" drop springs and my tires sit right inside the rolled wheel lip. Doesn't rub except when backing out of my driveway.


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:21 PM
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The 225/70 is a very very tall tire in this application, 26"+, that would be the easiest to change. 205/70 will only give another 1/2 inch or so. I currently have 215/60 14 on the front with similar chop work.
Its possible a different back space will help, those look line Ranger rims that other people have used.

The height difference could be from different wear on each spring, as simple as a driver and no passenger for 90% of their lives. Could be in the sheet metal from side to side as well, dont stress over it.

Last edited by 1ofAMillion+; 04-20-2017 at 03:23 PM.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:22 PM
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two issues. Your 225-70-14 is a little tall for the front. second cutting the stock coil has lowered your front too much. Should have left the stock springs alone. Shorter front tires will help as will changing the springs or shimming the spring perch and alignment with negative camber.

Last edited by cmefly; 04-20-2017 at 03:26 PM.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:23 PM
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Sorry....your stance is just too low. If you want it to look like that when parked add air ride. All those new cars at shows you see like that (unless they are the stupid camber cars) have air bags so they can run real low when going straight and slow and air up when they need to actually drive.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:04 PM
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On these cars when when the car squats, the tires toe out, as you raise the front end the tires toe in. Once you change the ride height it's going to effect the toe. Lowering the upper arm on the 65/66 you need to remove about 1/4" IIRC of shims to get the camber roughly back to where it was. On your car the camber went positive as you found out. You're going to have to align the car to what ever ride height the car sits. I agree with everyone else, it's probably sitting a little too low and the tires are on the tall side adding to the problem.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:32 PM
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You cut a lot off your springs, specially with relocating the UCA as well. I would suggest starting with a 1/2 coil cut and go from there. But as was said, you are running a tire a little tall for such a low stance. If you don't want to change your springs, you need to get the alignment done right and use shorter tires.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:28 PM
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To many variables, We need to know current alignment specs,and the backspace of the wheels.Your front tires are rather tall however +
It could be just an optical allusion but this picture make the camber look very positive,just what you don't want

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:08 PM
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You would have been good with 1/2 a coil.

With it being that low it's no surprise that as soon as you turn the wheel the rubber goes straight into the fender.

Those stock coils don't offer enough rate. When the car goes lower the rate typically needs to increase to avoid running into bottoming out problems

Last edited by luke87gt; 04-20-2017 at 11:18 PM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 02:00 AM
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I have Shelby drop, 1" drop GT springs and 215/60/15 tires. Works great. You should get better springs and tires, 225/70 is too much.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:48 AM
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Ok so your good enough and not scared enough to get this far, now its time to man up and get yourself into doing your own alignment. For 125 you can get an alignment tool that slaps right on and set your camber correctly. Heck i used some 1x2 steel from my bone pile some 15+" long - fits between the lips of the rim top and bottom of my 16" rims and a $30 digital level. Direct read rims going straight is your camber. There is a great post by husk... on diy alignment and how to measure castor with the same equipment. I would not change a thing till the alignment is correct. Then see where you are. Don't use the eccentrics at first, set them to bring the bottom of the tire as far in as possible then remove shims on the uca to bring the top of the tire in as far as possible to your chosen camber setting. Once you get it squared away you will be thrilled with the way it drives. Make sure you use modern specs for radials e.g. 0 to 1/2 degree neg camber, 2 degree castor or more 1/16" toe in each side. From memory, someone else may chime in. I run a little more agressive at 1 to 1.5 neg camber & 4.5 castor which may help in your case. Good luck!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:03 AM
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Question guys: How much does the Shelby drop along lower the front end, assuming no other changes?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke87gt View Post
Question guys: How much does the Shelby drop along lower the front end, assuming no other changes?
5/8" is typically what you will see give or take a little
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:42 PM
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Nice car, I love the old school look, and of course the year.

How old are you to be rocking the old school look?

The front is just way too low, I'm surprised you haven't buckled the fender yet when turning.

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