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Starter Solenoid Clicks Once then nothing

16K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  LeeFred 
#1 ·
I went to fire the car up for the first time and the starter solenoid clicks once and nothing happens. I removed the starter completely and tried again to see what would happen and it just clicks again. All gauges, accessories, electric fan work just fine. I'm having a very bad day, on a day I was really anticipating.

Any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Corrosion between the battery posts and the cable clamps. Enough juice will flow through the corrosion to power the accessories but as soon as you turn the key to Start the solenoid clicks and that's the end. Use one of those wire brush battery post cleaners available at any auto parts store to clean the posts and inside the clamps.
Also make sure the solenoid end of the + cable is clean and the engine block end of the - cable is clean. The solenoid grounds through its mounting bracket so make sure the screws that attach it to the apron are clean and tight.
I've seen it hundreds of times.
 
#3 ·
Did you purchase the solenoid recently? I ask because lately I've heard multiple situations where a brand new solenoid failed to ever work or worked for only a short time before failing. It seems the solenoids sold by O'Reilly, Auto Zone and Advance Auto have this issue. I've heard better things about the best available solenoid from NAPA.
 
#5 ·
So it was a bad engine ground. I painted the engine bay while the engine was out and didn't remove the paint from the firewall. I pulled it off, wire wheeled it and good to go.

Next question, what are the 4 poles on the started solenoid anyways? Only 3 are currently used.
 
#7 · (Edited)
All made Solenoids are COMPLETE TRASH and will leave you dead on the road except, Motorcraft, Standard Motor Parts or their Blue Streak brand, or the Original Ford or Autolite.

ONLY BUY...

1. Motorcraft
2. Standard Motor Parts or Blue Streak Brand
3. Autolite
4 Original NOS FORD

Everything else is Garbage!!!!!!!! Especially Borg Warner (BMG) or any Brand-X "Unknown" brands and also "Repro" solenoids which never last...

If you want one that actually works and lasts for decades, Buy one of these below..otherwise plan for big problems in the future.


1972 Dated NOS Tooling Motorcraft Replacement Solenoids:

https://www.npdlink.com/store/produ...orcraft_exact_replacement_prior-101233-0.html

and..

MOTORCRAFT SW7663 Starter Solenoid | RockAuto


PS: While you are there, Also Pick up a Motorcraft "Solid State" Electronic Voltage Regulator to "BulletProof" your OE Charging system...

Motorcraft Electronic "Solid State" Voltage Regulators:

https://www.npdlink.com/store/produ...ternator_electronic_replacement-100810-1.html

and even cheaper here...almost half price!...Same Motorcraft Part!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/motorcraft,GR540B,voltage+regulator,4884


If you buy or use anything else....Well, There's just no hope for you....lol...Hehehe...

At least I can say... I tried! ....LOL!!

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
#9 ·
Okay, looking at the solenoid while it's mounted on the apron. The big lug on the right side is where the battery is hooked up, along with some other constantly hot wires for the car. The next small lug has a red wire with a blue stripe - this goes to the neutral safety switch, and then to the ignition switch in the car. If you don't have an automatic transmission, then it should go straight to the ignition switch. The next small lug, on the right, is a brown wire. This bypasses the pink resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The brown wire provides 12 volts to the coil to start the car, and then shuts off when you release the key after the engine is running. If you are running a coil/ignition system that requires 12 volts to operate, then chances are the pink resistor wire has been bypassed or removed, and there is 12 volts coming straight from the ignition switch to the coil. In that case, the brown wire has been removed because it's no longer needed. Finally, on the right side, the big lug is for the starter cable.
 
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