J code 302 cast iron heads porting - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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J code 302 cast iron heads porting

I bought a set of bare iron heads per title. I'm planning to port match the exhaust side. I know I need the gasket and exhaust manifolds to port match the heads. But my question is do I need to 'completely' grind the 'bump' on the first two pictures? Also, does it help to port match the intake side with the intake manifolds? I've decided not to use aluminum heads. Thank you.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:46 AM
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I have no hands-on porting experience, but, will add, port matching intake to heads is a "good thing" with benefits in performance.
The question is, if you're putting your own labor into porting, valve work etc., this is one thing, if you're paying for labor and experience, then, you might compare costs with researching performance gains in purchasing a well known set of aluminum heads with improved flow. Just my take on this.......

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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:09 AM
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Removing the bump is a must when the smog holes aren't drilled. The first thing to remember when porting is "air doesn't like to turn". I say that so you will spend more time on the top and sides of the port than the bottom where less is happening. Try not to "flair" the opening to gasket size near the opening just to get the job done. Real porting narrows the valve guide boss and softens the "arc" from the exhaust seat to the exhaust flange , minimizing how much the air has to turn to get out. Good porting makes more power , bad porting just makes bigger holes ( ports). You can't go wrong by removing those bumps though. Grind away.

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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:28 AM
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Removing the bump is a must when the smog holes aren't drilled. The first thing to remember when porting is "air doesn't like to turn". I say that so you will spend more time on the top and sides of the port than the bottom where less is happening. Try not to "flair" the opening to gasket size near the opening just to get the job done. Real porting narrows the valve guide boss and softens the "arc" from the exhaust seat to the exhaust flange , minimizing how much the air has to turn to get out. Good porting makes more power , bad porting just makes bigger holes ( ports). You can't go wrong by removing those bumps though. Grind away.
What about on heads with the thermactor ports drilled? I have. A set, but plan on not using the thermactor ports and just capping them.

I have also heard you should keep the exhaust ports slightly smaller than the exhaust gasket, but fully open the intake side.


Here are the details on how to do it:

http://www.mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Port%20Matching.pdf

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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
I have no hands-on porting experience, but, will add, port matching intake to heads is a "good thing" with benefits in performance.
The question is, if you're putting your own labor into porting, valve work etc., this is one thing, if you're paying for labor and experience, then, you might compare costs with researching performance gains in purchasing a well known set of aluminum heads with improved flow. Just my take on this.......
I am aware of the upsides on using an aftermarket aluminum heads. I just decided to use an iron heads. I will be doing the porting job myself. Other than that, the machine shop that did my block can do the rest for $500 to rebuild the pair. That is with new valves, hardened exhaust valve seats, hot tank, clean, resurface, and install new springs and screw in studs. I have to provide the springs and screw in studs. I paid $60 for the bare set. So, worst case scenario, I'll be around $1000 at the most (gave myself some cushion there). I think that is still a good deal.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Removing the bump is a must when the smog holes aren't drilled. The first thing to remember when porting is "air doesn't like to turn". I say that so you will spend more time on the top and sides of the port than the bottom where less is happening. Try not to "flair" the opening to gasket size near the opening just to get the job done. Real porting narrows the valve guide boss and softens the "arc" from the exhaust seat to the exhaust flange , minimizing how much the air has to turn to get out. Good porting makes more power , bad porting just makes bigger holes ( ports). You can't go wrong by removing those bumps though. Grind away.
Where exactly are the smog holes? Thank you for the input.



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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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What about on heads with the thermactor ports drilled? I have. A set, but plan on not using the thermactor ports and just capping them.

I have also heard you should keep the exhaust ports slightly smaller than the exhaust gasket, but fully open the intake side.


Here are the details on how to do it:

http://www.mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Port%20Matching.pdf
That link is exactly what I have for my guide. For the exhaust ports, I also read keeping it a little smaller than whatever exhaust manifolds I'll be using.



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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flade View Post
What about on heads with the thermactor ports drilled? I have. A set, but plan on not using the thermactor ports and just capping them.

I have also heard you should keep the exhaust ports slightly smaller than the exhaust gasket, but fully open the intake side.


Here are the details on how to do it:

http://www.mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Port%20Matching.pdf
Flade,
The link is typical of what a "home porter" does. Fine for a 300 or so HP engine. Removing the smog bump on a drilled head leaves a hole unless you fill the hole first. I have made some "nail like" inserts to fill the drilled hole followed by a large threaded plug ( same as smog fitting thread size). The reason you want the hole plugged before removing the bump is void is right in the area where the air is turning and the hole creates another flow disturbance similar to the one you are trying to get rid of by grinding out the bump. filling it before grinding allows the air to flow smoothly out of the port. I "ported" my first set of 289hipo heads in '66 and promptly found out how "little" I knew on the subject from guys like Joe Mondello and Larry Ofria ( Valley Head Service). I have learned a bit more since then.
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Last edited by GT350HR; 05-18-2017 at 01:34 PM.
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 01:36 PM
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zhlange,

They are in the smog bumps unless they aren't drilled .

'66 GT350H-3 time cover car - Car Craft July'77,Modified Mustangs and Fords Feb2011 ( w/article), Mustang Monthly June 2014. Bracket raced by me for the last 43 years. Yes it is a real one.
'68.5 R code GT fastback
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 02:35 PM
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If you port the heads as outlined in the above link, what kind of HP gain will/should you see with everything else remaining the same?
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 04:44 PM
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IMHO , based on 50+ years of doing small block Fords , 20 tops. The way you gain 100 is with 1.9x1.6 valves and "fully porting" them. It's really tough to get over 210 cfm intake flow out of a 289 head. That is why many start with a 351W head and are happy wit 230-240 CFM or about the same as the '66 GT40 head was. A current aluminum aftermarket head flows that AS CAST! Grinding on the heads is something anyone can do , getting them to make more horsepower requires experience and talent. It's too bad dyno testing is so expensive. Many would be surprised at what "home porting" does or doesn't do.

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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 07:04 PM
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Z, have you considered upgrading to the 1.84/ 1.54 351W valves ? or maybe 1.9 / 1.6 aftermarket ? LSG
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 08:09 PM
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I am in the process of port matching my 1968 302 2V heads and they have the same 'bumps' in them. I ground them completely away and you have no worries about plugging smog ports or busting into the water jacket or anything, they're just solid lumps of iron with nothing but more iron behind them.

You do want to leave the exhaust ports in the head about 1/16" smaller than the openings in the manifold or headers because if the exhaust gases hit a 'step' that can be just as detrimental to flow as the lumps you just ground out.

You can do the same to the intake and intake side of the heads but with a die grinder on a bench the minimal return is probably not worth the effort.

You will see an increase in power, and most people claim they can feel it. I have yet to see myself so I cannot confirm and deny, but if you are trying to squeeze as much as you can out of stock heads without spending tons of money port matching seems to be well worth the effort. Don't expect that this process will get you a track car, but if all you are looking for is a fun driver with an original looking engine and around 300 horses then you have realistic expectations.

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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 08:23 PM
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Larry Ofria ( Valley Head Service).
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I find it odd that when I learn something or someone new in the "Mustang" world, I often hear of them again numerous times. Not sure if it's that I wasn't paying attention before or just never heard the name. The guy I bought my "new" date coded block from worked for that Company some in his career. I won't drop any names but it may be obvious, very nice guy I might add.

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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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zhlange,

They are in the smog bumps unless they aren't drilled .
Thank you. The "bumps" on the exhaust holes aren't drilled. I tried grinding it today using a Dremel tool, ahhh I need a bigger die grinder. Should I grind "parts" of the push rod hole too? It looks like it cuts the flow too.



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