Heater core sprung a leak - Vintage Mustang Forums

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Heater core sprung a leak

The other day the wife and I hopped in the 66 to go to the DQ to have a cone. Only made it a couple blocks and my wife mentions she is smelling something funny. I smelled it just as she was saying it. Green antifreeze running in on to the passenger floor. We beat it back home. Didn't get our cones

I took it apart today. I had already bypassed the heater core by cutting of the heater hoses and connecting the waterpump hose to the intake. It appears this is the factory heater box to me. I found a white paint stamp on the top of the box. I'm wondering if this is from the factory. Waiting for parts.

In and For Christ,
Glen
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File Type: jpg heaterbox1.jpg (94.5 KB, 55 views)

1966 Mustang coupe 6R07C
Silver Frost, Black Vinyl top, Black standard interior
3.03 3 speed, 2.80 diff, Dual exhaust
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:38 AM
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That would be the marking you would find on an original heater box. Attached is a picture of mine after I restored it.
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File Type: jpg heater_box2.jpg (52.7 KB, 43 views)


'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & 2.5" Exhaust , T5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 03:10 AM
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Be sure to order a heater box gasket set, sometimes listed as a heater box seal set, while you have it apart. I didn't know about these when I had mine out and it has a flow of air leaking past the doors internally even when shut. Not a huge deal but better to install while you are at it. I'll do this with mine next time I have it out, though that may be a long time from now.


example: 1965 1966 1967 1968 Mustang Heater Box Seal Kit Best on Market | eBay
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:55 AM
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You said you had bypassed the heater core. How the heck did it leak then?


My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.

'68 vert. driver. Owned since Apr '78. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slim View Post
You said you had bypassed the heater core. How the heck did it leak then?
Magic ?



He must've done that prior to the repair so he could keep driving. It isn't stated clearly, is it ?


In any case, the suggestion by Rufus68 is a very one. New seals and gaskets will make the heater box wok as it was designed to work.


Z

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry about the confusion. It sounded clear when I wrote it

Yes, bypassed right after it happened, but just got the time to tear it down. Seals on the way along with other parts. One thing I noticed is that there wasn't any seals on the ends of the core itself. I assume the replacement core is different that the stock one and they wouldn't fit or they were so deteriorated that they tossed them. I have some coming along with brass core.

Another question bout the carpet. Should I remove the front carpet and spray it off and let it dry? It still feels a little damp. I know antifreeze isn't the fastest drying. There is some thick underlayment under the carpet as well, like felt material. Is that factory?? I don't want to have any rust issues due to this so I would like to get it cleaned up. Is it worth all the trouble?? or is there not really any rust concern?? The floorboards on the outside are in excellent shape. Still showing some of the factory red oxide primer in the trans tunnel. The floors were painted but the drips in the primer still show through.

So rhutt, that clip that goes over the pivot rod, is it available?? I didn't see it on NPDs site.

Thanks again,

Glen

1966 Mustang coupe 6R07C
Silver Frost, Black Vinyl top, Black standard interior
3.03 3 speed, 2.80 diff, Dual exhaust

Last edited by passthrough; 05-19-2017 at 10:31 PM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:24 PM
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It's safest to remove the carpet and underlayment for the fastest drying. But at least pull it ALL back and put a small fan under it until it's completely dry.

Z

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-20-2017, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passthrough View Post
So rhutt, that clip that goes over the pivot rod, is it available?? I didn't see it on NPDs site.

Thanks again,

Glen
That is a piece that I fabricated to close the .10 gap in the case halves that occurred over the past 50 years.


'66 GT Fastback, 302, Edelbrock Top End, Holley 670 Street Avenger,
MSD Ignition, JBA Headers & 2.5" Exhaust , T5Z, Currie 3.55 Trac-Loc
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Heater box rebuilt and core in. New hoses, flush and fill. Wasn't too bad of a job I thought. I let the fan blow on that carpet for more than a day, it felt dry. I did peel it back some and found the carpet glued to the rocker under the sill plate. Is this something that was done from the factory?? I don't remember reading anything about that. It was stuck good, I pulled very hard and felt like if I pulled much harder it may tear.

Anyway, project complete and car back on the road. Took it to it's first show of the year. Was a good time seeing all the cars out. Weather was perfect.

In and For Christ,
Glen

1966 Mustang coupe 6R07C
Silver Frost, Black Vinyl top, Black standard interior
3.03 3 speed, 2.80 diff, Dual exhaust
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