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Door Tag Reproductions

3K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  daves67ss 
#1 ·
I just bought a reproduction door tag to replace the beaten up/scratched original on my '66 gt convertible. The tag seems to be of high quality, but there are minor differences from the original when you look at the 2 together. The car is a candyapple/4-speed/bench seat, so I am concerned about making sure it stays documented. Should I use the reproduction (keep the original somewhere else), or use the somewhat ugly-looking original anyway (i could leave it on the door w/out changing the rivots)? Are there differences in the repro tags depending on where you buy them?
 
#2 ·
Guess it depends on your resto goals....

I would probably use the new one as it is nice and undamaged since you have it. Keep the original and make sure the truth about the car is known...Especially if you have a tag made up to current car specs and they are not original (if for instance you changed the color of the car and want to reflect that on the tag).

In my case, even after a resto with bare metal different color paint job, I still put on the original tag! Just because it is original. Besides there will never be anyone accusing me of trying to pass of the car as original since the tag doesn't match the car and it therefore is obvious that it is not.

Just depends on your own view!

Columbo
http://members.brabant.chello.nl/a.schroeders/Columbo66.jpg http://members.brabant.chello.nl/a.schroeders/Columbo66_2.jpg
First time rolling restoration, 66 289 nearing completion.
 
#3 ·
I'm going to have a new one made up for the Shelby, and keep the original for documentation. Since they are riveted on, you can always drill it out and replace it with the original.

You're just jealous because the voices only talk to me!!!
66 200 3-spd Coupe - emberglo, daily driver
65 289 4-spd Conv - Rangoon Red (what else)
66 Shelby - Red and Ready to be Restored
 
#4 ·
Always keep the original door tag, even if you have a repro made, and especially if you change the tag to match any changes you make to the car. Dickson

1965 GT fastback / "Fastbasketcase" (by Midlife)
There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness" - Dave Barry
 
#8 ·
From whom did you buy your repro tag? Just how different is it from the original?

I've seen Charles and Jeff (both MCA judges) repeatedly say that the only exact repros come from Kevin Marti (Martiauto.com). Since my car came with a replacement door, I'm gonna have to have one made and I'd like to get the best reproduction I can find.

Glenn Morgan: 66 GT V-Burgundy Fastback 351w+toploader+9 in. TracLoc. Started out as a rusted-out Chicago-area crusher. After sacrificing a solid 66 coupe for its sheetmetal sub-assemblies, I have one solid (and expensive) work in progress!
 
#9 ·
I did purchase mine from Marti Autoworks. It is a very good reproduction, and I am satisfied with it. The actual stamped info and spacing was very close. However, the font used on the "printed/painted" part was a little different. For example, the F in the Ford logos looks a little different along with the circle around the trademark R. Also, the Axl, DSO, Trim, Color, etc. lettering is a little different. It looks a little more crisp for a lack of a better word on the repro. I wouldn't have noticed any difference without setting the 2 side by side. Even then, you have to look close.
 
#11 ·
Yes the reproduction tags and the stamping methods vary depending on where you get them. May stamp the plates too prefect or use the wrong fonts. My current choice would be Kevin Marti and tell him you want it stamped like orginal. Some owners dislike the factory look and finish and chosse/instruct markers to make them "better" than factory

In my opinion I believe you would be better off (not knowing of your plans with the car) using the original tag as long as its readble and it represents how the car is currently configured.

Jeff Speegle
MCA Shelby Gold Card

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6473
Mustang & Shelby research, documentation

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1609818&a=12284202&p=44925357&Sequence=7&res=high.jpg
 
#12 ·
It likely (been so on everyone I've seen and seen many ;) that it was removed when the door was damaged, rusted or when the car was painted. Back in the 70's and 80's the correct rivets were harder to find.

If there are holes for bolts there are holes for rivets ;)

Jeff Speegle
MCA Shelby Gold Card

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6473
Mustang & Shelby research, documentation

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1609818&a=12284202&p=44925357&Sequence=7&res=high.jpg
 
#13 ·
Sorry to hear they are not exact. Maybe Kevin has changed his suppliers. I would suggest that you at least let Kevin know as I'm sure he is intested in this.

Jeff Speegle
MCA Shelby Gold Card

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/6473
Mustang & Shelby research, documentation

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1609818&a=12284202&p=44925357&Sequence=7&res=high.jpg
 
#14 ·
I just bought one from Kevin Marti about 3 months ago. It looked very good. I had to replace my door and kept the orginal (it looked terrible). I mounted the new one on the door and keep the orginal in my "show" book along with my report from Kevin.

http://home.mindspring.com/~thedaughertys/_uimages/m1.jpg
[color:blue]Now 293 ci (.030" bore) with Holley 450 and 295,000 miles</font color=blue>
[color:red]MCA #49294</font color=red>
 
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