Sure fire way to unfreeze ext. man. bolts??? - Vintage Mustang Forums

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Have them soaked in anti-seize right now. Should I bring the motor up to temp before I try to loosen them, or do it cold?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 04:29 PM
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The best stuff for stuck bolts that I've found is called PB Blaster. Let it soak over night. I brought the engine up to temp before trying to wrench on them and they loosened up. Of course this is not fail safe. I had one the would not burge and ended up breaking the head of the bolt off. Good Luck.

post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 04:35 PM
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Bring it to heat if you can. Heat with torch if possible. Use combination of anti-seize and heat and take your time. Good luck.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 04:46 PM
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anti-seize is a compound you put on the threaded components to prevent them from seizing together It will do nothing at all to help break free a rusted component.
PB Blaster and heat

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm.........don't I feel foolish! I probably should have know better huh? Thanks for the heads up, I will hit a parts store on the way home.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 07:49 PM
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I got great advice on the old forum for this. Heat up the engine, turn it off, and apply PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Do it again 24 hours later. Another 24 hours later, start to unbolt them. If still tight, try torquing in the tightening direction, just a smidge to break the rust bonds. Midlife's manifold bolts came out very easily. Use neversieze when putting them back in with locking rings.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-28-2001, 10:27 PM
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Just did this two days ago. Forget the liquid wrench. Soaked mine two weeks and still broke of the stud. I took the manifold down to the shop. I lit a torch and heated the boss around the stud, don't heat the stud, until it glowed red. This took about 2 mins. Stud came right out. The difference in thermal expansion is enough to ease the grip on the threads.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2001, 12:50 AM
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After you`ve tried all of the above without good results , get some Kano Kroil , comes in an orange can. Try Kano Labs .com Used extensively in shipyards on real rust !

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2001, 07:53 AM
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If you can't get it out with heat, it's not comming out!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-29-2001, 07:57 AM
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that kroil is good, i work at a nukie power plant and we got tons of it, i was unbolting a big valve at the flange on the turbine ( turbine means HOT when its running and still hot a few days after!) these were like 3/4" studs with nuts on the end... i could hagn on the cheater bar and not a budge. when i sprayed some kroil on it, that stuff didn't even drip, it creeped up in stead of rolling down! but i do use pb at the house, can't afford the kroil lol

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