I'm going to see if I can get the engine started on my latest project.
The PO claims the engine and trans was rebuilt a few thousand (who knows how many that means) miles before it was put out to pasture.
It's been sitting for about 8 years.
I already replaced some stuff like the solenoid switch, batter cables, fuel filter, dist. cap, plug wires, and coil.
I haven't pulled the plugs yet but was going to do that also before turning it over.
I pulled the radiator hoses to drain the system and replace them and noticed there was alot of yellow jello like chunks so I'm going to flush the system best I can before starting it.
I'm also going to change the oil.
Any other tips or things I should do first?
It's 289 2v w/C4 tranny.
I would guess you already have turned the motor once or twice. I would remove the coil wire and turn the motor over a few times to get the oil flowing through the motor before you start it.
I should have stated also that the PO had tried to start it up when he was selling it.
He said it started but wouldn't stay running.
Don't know ho wmuch of that is true or what kinda damage if any he did by doing that.
If you pull the plugs you might give each cylinder a shot of A/T fluid, just a little, to lubricate the cylinder walls. After 8 years I would say that they will have a bit of rust on them though.
BTW, Once you attempt to start a car and do not succeed, it is being set up to have a frozen motor. The unburned gas in the cylinder dilutes the oil off the cylinder wall and piston and advances the "freeze up" of the motor rather quickly.
I just had the same problem you had. My stang had been sitting for 11 years and I was really worried about getting it running. I hope the PO didn't damage the engine by running it. I also bought one 2yrs ago that had been sitting for 9 years and the PO started it without draining the old gas first, now I'm looking to rebuild that engine. The old gas gummed everything up.Old gas can really damage a car. I learned from that one and did this one right. I replaced everything from the gas tank, lines,fuel pump,fluids, belts plugs,kitchen sink...........The most important thing is lubrication. I put about a tsp of marvel mystery oil down in each cylinder when I replaced the plugs. I couldn't believe how smooth it ran. The gas tank was a big issue for me, everybody kept telling me to flush it out and use the old one......the gas looked like roofing tar and tarnish mixed together. I bought a new one and it was worth the money to be worry free. Good luck on getting it started. I really hope he didn't damage the engine by running it. Ask him if he just cranked it, or if he drained the gas and put fresh stuff in. That might make the difference.
Before you turn over the engine, take apart a distributor (a junkyard one will work). Using the distributor shaft and a reversible drill, you can pump up oil pressure before you turn the motor over. Then turn the motor by hand a few times before you crank it up. Bob.
On top of what you have already done.../forums/images/icons/smile.gif
1) Spray the plugs down with WD40.
2) Remove the old plugs
3) Pour some Marvelous Mystery Oil in each cylinder - and soak for 24 - 48 hours
4) Replace the plugs with new plugs
5) Spray carb cleaner all over the carbs exterior moving parts
6) Drain the fuel tank and flush the fuel system
7) Replace the fuel filter with a brand new one for safety
8) Spray starting fluid in the carb
9) Start
Remove the plugs and squirt a little oil in each cyl. This will help restore the compression to a point where it will be easier to start. It also sounds like the gas may need drained and replaced, wouldn't hurt to rebuild the carb also.
Thanks for all the help.
The gas tank looks dry. Don't know if it was drained or not before sitting though.
I'm hopeing this engine is at least usable for a little while so it's drivable after I get the framework done.
I'll be dropping in a big block at some point.
In addition to what everyone else has said, if you have problems getting/keeping it running you may want to consider rebuilding/replacing the carb as the old gas sitting in the carb can gum it up and the gaskets can dry up, crack, and severly hamper the carb's ability to properly meter fuel.
Also, if you don't want to take apart an old dist to prime your motor you can buy a tool that will do the same thing, you put it down the dist hole, engage the oil pump, spin it with a drill and it will prime the motor with oil. I think Advance Auto might lend these.
Yeh, if it doesn't run smooth I'd rebuild the carb at some point anyways.
Just like to see without putting too much money into whether it's a good running engine or if there's a bunch of pistons slamming around in there /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
I don't know if what I was told by the PO I bought my Falcon from was true. But he said it sat for 12 years. It was in an underground garage, by the shore in northern new england. RUST CENTRAL. I got it home, it turned over, I found the carb wasn't working. I put a junk two barrel with an adapter(4V) on and it fired right up. I then shut it down, added a gas filter, rebuilt the carb and tried again. It is a great running car. The moral is don't give up. May start and run better than anything else you have. Old Ford V8's never die they just get tired.
Mine sat for 10+ years but it started a few months ago. Faithful 289!! I'd like to add, for safety, check the short rubber hose between the fuel pump and the steel fuel line. Mine had de-evolved back into to tar, it just disintegrated when I pulled on it.
All the tips from the other guys sound good, and if the engine turns over, it will probably run. If you have spark, fuel, and a little compression... it will fire up. Just don't overlook lubricating everything you can possibly lubricate. I have a 17,000 original mile Cadillac that hadnt run in 30 years. Took an amazing amount of doing, but it purrs! Heres what I did:
Changed oil & filter
Removed and flushed gas tank
replaced EVERY soft fuel line from tank to carb
blew-out every hard fuel line with air hose
sprayed a can of carb-clean to the moving parts of the carb
new plugs, wires, cap and rotor
flushed cooling system
replaced coil
Shot a few tablespoons of ATF in each cylinder
disconnected coil wire and cranked it over before starting
fired right up... after over 30 years of slumber
I think all of the above posts cover the basics. If it runs reall poorly and sounds like it is knocking at first, you may have a stuck valve. It is another common problem with engines that have sat for a while.
My first Edsel sat for 20 Years, and after replacing all the rubber parts, reworking the distributer, Marvel Mystery Oiling the cylinders (for a month, turning the motor over a couple of times a week), and rebuilding the carb, she fired up, ran like sh*t for about 30 seconds and they smoothed right out. I ran the car for a year before I tore the engine down! The rings were somewhat shot, but the car ran better after sitting for 20 years than my Dad's Chevy ran any day of the week.
Best of Luck.
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