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Old 03-30-2002, 03:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
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What is the setting for timing of the dual point distributor?
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Old 03-30-2002, 03:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Hey there, WELCOME to the VMF. Please fill out your profile so we can better answer your questions or at least mention what year car and engine you have when posting.
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Old 03-30-2002, 05:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hookup your dwell meter and block off one set of points, set the working set for 25 degrees. Block off the other set and set remaining points to 25 degrees as well. Check it again with both sets working and you should get around 33 degrees. That's how I set mine anyway.

Jason
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Old 03-30-2002, 05:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi and welcome to VMF! Jason's got it about right as far as setting the dwell on the dual points. You can use a piece of matchbook cover to blockoff one set at a time. If you're asking about engine timing, just set the same as with a single point distributor. Please fill out your profile, too!
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Old 03-30-2002, 09:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The timing does not change due to using single or dual points. It is the same. However the dwell is a function of both sets of points. Dwell is the time the points stay closed and since both sets are wired in parallel, the dwell time is increased. This allows the magnetic field in the coil to saturate at higher rpm than would be possible with only a single points set. The end result is the coil voltage (spark) doesn't drop off as fast at high rpm. To adjust the points, one "blocks off" one set and sets the dwell of the remaining set just as if they were single points. Dwell of a single set is set to about 28 degrees. Then the adjusted set is "blocked off" and the remaining set is adjusted for the same dwell angle, about 28 degrees. The "blocker" is then removed and the dwell is rechecked. The combined dwell should be about 33 degrees. After dwell is satisfactory, timing is set in the traditional fashion, typically 6 degrees BTDC with vaccuum advance plugged and the engine run not greater than 600 rpm.
If the engine won't idle down to 600 rpm then set the timing at 1 degree more per 100 rpm. Example if the engine runs at 1000 rpm lowest, then set the timing 4 degrees more advanced. (1000-600=400), 400/100=4 degrees more advance. Why 1 degree per 100 rpm? Total advance for most cars is 24 degrees mechanical. This occurs at 3000 rpm. 3000-600=2400rpm difference. 2400rpm/24degrees=100rpm/degree. If the car has no vaccuum advance, 1.5 degrees per 100 rpm is more appropriate.

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Old 03-30-2002, 10:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When you say "block off" you mean stuffing the match book between the points so it won't make contact while adjusting and running the other one checking it's dwell time? I'm a little confused here and I'll need this info now that I have a '65 coupe which someone stuffed in a replacement Motorcraft dual point distributor. 'Course, now that I think about it, the engine needs overhaul anyway and that would be the time to cram in the correct single point unit with the vacuum advance diaphragm (thinking out loud - bad habit of mine).

Thanks in advance,

Dean T
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