Crossmember question...is this okay temporarily? - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Had to drop the oil pan today. In order to do so I removed the crossmember under the engine.

During the removal process, one of the crossmember bolts sheared off.

Can I put the car down off of the jacks and will it be okay? I don't plan to drive it without the crossmember, just want to make sure it will be okay for a week or so on the ground without the crossmember.

Thanks.

Slade

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 06:29 PM
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Yes , those factory crossmembers arent that fantastic in the first place . With the engine there nothing will move because the engine is holding the frames . Id repair the crossmember and reinstall it , and I would not drive it until I did fix it .
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 06:33 PM
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Oh Hoover Dam! You sheared off the bolt? Those are very very nasty to remove when broken. Plus, the bolts are very unusual, and you'll have to order replacements from AMK via your favorite Mustang catalog.

Didn't you use that PBBlaster I had you buy?

The cross-member is not critical to the car when it is not in motion, you'll be fine for several days, if not weeks.

Still willing to take that bet that the car will be drivable by the time you move?

'Electrical Guru: Let me Check Your Shorts! Ooops...that didn't turn out right.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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I PB blasted them. I can't even EZ out it...it is plan stuck. I have to find a place that will remove it...I can't do it short of just drilling it out almost completely and then trying to break the outer part of the bolt off.

I'm not giving up yet on our bet...

Slade

Slade & The KaStang

Current
200 CI, T5, Comp Cam 260H ,Dual Exhaust Headers, OZ 250/2V head, Holley 390 4V, DS2 Ignition w/ MSD Digital 6+, GT 5 lug disc brakes, 8" rear end, V-8 Steering

Current Project:
5.0 EFI with Megasquirt, BBK SSI intake Manifold, Trickflow TW170 AL Heads, TF Stage 1 Cam...and a quiet as hell exhaust. Want it to sound like an I6...

"It's not how fast you go...but how go you fast"
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 06:57 PM
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Get some good drill bits first off .
Drill a hole in the DEAD CENTER of the busted bolt with a small drill bit (very small) . Step up to bigger sizes slowly , until you are close to the threads . Take a center punch and tap at the threads and try to bend / collapse them into the center of the hollowed out bolt . Once you finally get the threads out , use a tap to clean out the threads . DONT try to use a tap in the hole unless you have the threads/metal from the bolt . If you attempt cleaning out the hole with a tap into the drilled bolt you will likely end up with a broken tap and worse problems . DONT USE A EASY OUT , you will break it off trying to back the bolt out . Easy outs are good for loose broken bolts or fittings , thats it . If the bolt is frozen like yours it won't move with a easy out . Believe me Ive got a ton of experience removing broken bolts
Go slow , and don't try to drill at 1 bazillion MPH . Slow drilling is the key with drilling metal . If you drill fast you will just burn up the bits .
Worst things I have ever removed ? Stainless Steel studs froma 3406 Caterpillar truck engine , a broken easy out , and a broken tap .
Taps and easy outs are a terror . The easy way to remove them is heat them up until glowing red with a torch and then drench em with water to quick cool them . Smack them with a punch to try to shatter them at that point ... real fun for all ages .
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 09:36 PM
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A PO removed the crossmember on my fastback before I bought it. I drove it for years before I even knew there was supposed to be crossmember! Later I put in a crossmember, monte carlo bar and export brace and they all went right in, so it didn't seem to cause any problems. Since my car has no rust, that probably saved me from having problems.

- Tim -

1965 Prairie Bronze 2+2 (under construction)
289 4V Automatic Transmission (A-code clone )
Black Std Interior
AC, PS, Style Steels, 1" Drop, Konis
Aluminized 2 1/4 Exhaust, Tri-Ys

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-25-2003, 09:37 PM
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err...I hate to break this to you...but you're probably hosed.

Those threads aren't in your frame rail, exactly. There's a nut welded inside the frame rail that they go into. I did the same thing a few years back. When I tried to easy out mine out, I ended up busting the nut loose from the frame rail. I had to cut a hole in the outside of the frame rail (about 2" long by 1" high), then I used a standard hardened bolt, washer, lockwasher and nut to bolt the crossmember back on...and NO it doesn't fit exactly right...someday I'll have to order the right AMK fastener too.

GOOD LUCK!

Phil
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