Some of the restoration pictures on VMF that show detailed engine compartments are truly fabulous. In reality, how much does it cost to take a complete decent Mustang engine bay and turn it into one of those glittering, perfect-looking, As New showroom pics
No eye has seen, no ear has heard, no mind has conceived what things God has prepared for those who love Him. 1 Cor 2:9
I did my own and I highly recommend the same for you unless you have lots of money to spend. I have heard prices from $1000 to $3000 for someone else to do it. It is not that hard. If possible pull the engine, but you can do it without doing that.
Items I used:
POR-15 silver for the base on the engine (brush on)
POR-15 engine enamel for the top coat (brush on)
Semi-gloss black for the engine bay and under side of the hood (spray cans)
Misc items like wire harness tape, new hold down clips for the wiring harness and other items that escape me right now.
Total: Approximately $100
Labor: about two weeks over many nights.
Here is a older pic of the before and after. I have a diff distributor and valve covers now.
I just had mine done this spring for $2,400. This included pulling the motor, new timing chain, water pump and clutch kit. The car hadn't run in 6 years at the time I brought it to the shop so took a little extra time to get everything working again. I spent around $1,000 on other new items such as carb, alternator, regulator, battery cables, battery and so on. That was a lot for stuff that's pretty easy to do but it would have taken me all summer to do the work they did in a week and now I have my car back to enjoy.
Yep, a brush. After reading and talking to lots of people, this was my choice. POR-15 carries some really nice engine enamel that can be brushed. I chose brushing cause you can control where the paint goes more easily. I did the detaling with the engine in the car so brushing made the most sense.
One piece of advise if you do it this way. Get lots and lots of small foam brushes. They work the best at gettmg into tight spots which the whole engine bay is. Other advise, use aluminum foil to cover up any add shaped pieces (master cylinder, sway bar, headers, etc. It forms to the part and comes off very easily when done. Take off as many parts of the engine as you feel comfortable with putting back on. My engine bay is not as perfect as someone who pulled the engine and did it on a stand, but you would be hard pressed to tell I didn't.
I just did mine last winter. Total cost probably a little under $100. This included rattle-can paint (Ford blue for the engine, semi-gloss black for the paint), chrome valve covers and other doodads, cleaning supplies, masking supplies, a set of stickers etc. I did it with the engine in place, but I pulled off all the accessories (alt, PS pump, disti, anything attached to fender aprons). Wasn't too tough to do, and it came out GREAT (see my pics below). I highly recommend doing this, it's well worth the effort.
[color:"green"]"You can't have a proper midlife crisis on only 6 cylinders"[/color]
I did mine with the engine in the car about a year ago. I spent about $200 that included a new water pump and alternator.
Most of it is just time and elbow grease. Mine's a street driven car and I was pretty happy. If you want concourse, you'll have to pull the engine to get it clean enough in all the areas.
68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
Just a little tip for using spray paint on parts in engine bay, you can use aluminum foil to cover hard to mask parts that are left on. This saves some time. I did mine by using spray paint on block first, then masking off as much as possible prior to hitting fender wells. Then did as many little nuts and bolts, brackets as possible. Fender bolts can be done one at a time, wire brushed and sprayed. Eastwood has a nice selection of metal town, phospate and zinc colored paints in their selection I found quite acceptable.
Go to KARMUSTANG.com--They have a whole section showing how they detail an engine bay--I think it was like 3000--I really don't remember the price so I could be wrong on that--Any way there's lots of pictures
1973 Mach 1 351c 4v (second owner)
1966 Coupe 200 i6 (Third owner)SOLD but not forgotten
1993 Vert LX 2.3L ( Now living in Platte City, Mo.)
2010 V-6 Convertible
I highly recommend pulling the engine because when i did it that way, I found many problems that were much easier to fix due to easier access.Yeah I spent a lot but everything got fixed or replaced that needed it such as timing chain and gear set, flywheel, engine bearings that were worn, plus a much more thorough cleaning and painting.
1966 red mustang convertible, 289
1998 red Ford Explorer
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