I've got some small rust holes in the floor boards. Bondo ok? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I just striped all the rust off my floor pans and used metal prep to clean. Then I painted it with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I now need to fill the small rust holes that are left. What should I use? I have a can of Bondo right now is that okey? If not I want something I can get at a local shop like carquest or advanced auto to fill the holes.

I also striped all the seam sealer off and was wonder what to use to seal the seams. The Carquest down the street has some 3m stuff is that ok?

After I patch the holes and seal the seams is there anything else I should do before I add the sound deadener and carpets?

Also for the underside of the car where the floor pans are there isn't any under coating. Should I just spary some on or do I need to paint some metal prep and Rust Encapsulator. It isn't really rusting it is just bare so it started to oxide but it isn't corrosive.


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Chris
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Recently got it off the jackstands, and now it starts to leak. A year and a half later after buying it off eHay "90% restored", I am finally starting to come down the home stretch!
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem with just some pinholes in my still very solid floorpans. I cleaned them very well with a wire brush on my grinder, then ground them until the metal was shiny, filled the hole with JB Weld, ground that smooth, then applied Zero Rust (same as Encapsilator) over that.
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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tWelcome to the group..take another minute and fill out your profile so we know what part of the USA you are in..To start with the water on your floor probably came from a cowl or winshield leak..pour alot of water down your cowl..vents area just behind the windshield and then look to see if isn't leaking inside at the fireewall, where your put your feet area. If so it won't do much good to seal the floor..where will it get out?..and you'll just have a soggy mess from now on.
If by chance it's just from years of wet shoes and spilt sodas do not use bondo..you are better off with something as common as silicone caaulking or a steep better the small fiberglass repair kit that is at your local auto store. Once again put alot effort in determining if you have a leak first.
If you can get the underside clean enough hit it with some Rustolem brand type primer and paint. Most of the undercoating products might get a little wild trying to apply without car on stands. It really comes blasting out of the cans heavy.
The silicome caulk will work for the seams but the good stuff is true seam sealer for autos that maybe the parts store has or for sure and car paint supply store will...
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Do not use Bondo. It's porous and will eventually absorb water and cause rust. Use an epoxy putty product like JB Weld or POR putty.

As for seam sealer, I like the Home Depot DAP tubes of caulking used for sealing seams in gutters. Same as the 3M, 1/2 the price. Dickson
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Do NOT use bondo for that. Not unless you plan to put a GOOD automotive primer and top coat paint over it. Bondo is like a sponge. It will soak up all the water it can pick up from the underside of the car and just make the problem worse.

For small hole repairs, I use POR-Patch. A product from the makers of POR-15. You aren't going to find it at your local parts store, but it is worth the extra money and effort to order it. I also use it for seam sealer.
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Old 07-08-2003, 12:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The cowls are on the exterior of the car by the windsheild wipers right? If I pour water down that where will the water exit out of (where should I go if properly sealed)? I haven't remove the firewall sound deadner/insulation or the heater Phenum, or any of the stuff on the firewall, do I need to? Is it necesary to paint the firewall with rust encapsulator?

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1967 Mustang Coupe- 302ci, 500cfm 4v carb, and C-4 automatic transmission, late model seats
Recently got it off the jackstands, and now it starts to leak. A year and a half later after buying it off eHay "90% restored", I am finally starting to come down the home stretch!
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/41498/24.jpg
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Old 07-08-2003, 02:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Chris - With an early mustang it's appropriate to paint EVERYTHING with rust encapsulator ! :: Dickson
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Old 07-08-2003, 02:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I agree with ambush... I would also invest time in seeing where the leak came from, otherwise, you will be stripping the interior again soon!

I would use fiberglass as a cheap and easily available alternative to complete floorpan replacement. I bought a fiberglass repair kit from either Walmart or Home Depot (can't remember which) for under $20. You can get the regular kit, or (better for your application) the fiberglass gel kit. The gel kit contains some cloth, hardener, and a resin that has nearly the same consistency as Bondo. That should work great for your application, because you could simply smear that on without it all running through the pin holes. You can even use a foam pad or stout brush and paint it on the underside. I used the stuff for cowel repairs and it worked great becuase it didn't drip or run off.

Best of luck.
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Old 07-08-2003, 02:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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My vert had pin holes, I debated replacing the floorpans but the convertible and coup pans are not the same. I bought some fiberglass resin and materail and put 2 full layers on the floors. I cleaned everything first naturally. Right now if there happens to be water under the carpet it is pooled on the fiberglass and not touching any metal to continue the rusting process. This also reinforced the floors and in my opinion made them stronger than the original pans. Think about it, boats hit logs and stumps all the time with no damage and get stored in water without damage...
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Old 07-08-2003, 02:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The cowl is the "grid" between the windshield wipers and the hood.

When working correctly, the water goes out the sides. If you have a 67/68, its where the mustang and engine badge decals are. This is on the fender, just in front of the doors.

When working incorrectly, the water will go inside the car. Where your feet are.

Use a large bucket of water or a hose.

..

The setup (that you cannot see) is that there is a stove pipe type thing in there. Say you had a flat piece of wood, and cut a hole in it, and then put a piece of stove pipe over the hole.

The theory is that this allows fresh air into the hole, but not water.

The mustang "stove pipes" were NOT prepped very well at the factory. Thus they rust where the stove pipe meets the flat piece of wood (in the example above). And now water runs straight in.

The odds are VERY LIKELY you have this problem.

..

My second (65) mustang, I reached up in the heater box (passenger side, where your feet are) and reached up there and pulled out the rusted up stove pipe piece. Which means any water coming into the "grid", eventually comes straight into the car.

This is a MUST fix it project. You can get Cowl Covers to cover the grid. This in my opinion is better than nothing, but not the permanent fix. They are like $30 or so.

..

Do a search for "COWL Repair" (an AND search) and you'll find TONS of info.

..
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Old 07-08-2003, 11:18 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I got the 3m seam sealer and the TigerHair fiberglass filler. No mat just mix with hardener and put on spot. Is this stuff ok? Since I got Rust Encapsulator on the metal I'm not going to sand away the paint to apply the filler, is that ok?

Thanks
Chris
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1967 Mustang Coupe- 302ci, 500cfm 4v carb, and C-4 automatic transmission, late model seats
Recently got it off the jackstands, and now it starts to leak. A year and a half later after buying it off eHay "90% restored", I am finally starting to come down the home stretch!
http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/41498/24.jpg
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Old 07-09-2003, 12:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I used some fiberglass on my floorpans, too, and then put POR-15 over that.
I had some marine fiberglass epoxy left over from a boat project. I got it from Lowe's, for about $20. That sounds high, but it's easier to work with than most fiberglass that I have tried. It comes with a pint of epoxy and a pint of hardener. They are mixed equally, so it's not hard to get the mix right. It's good stuff!
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