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Old 09-22-2003, 08:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I don't know a whole lot about paint jobs. Lets say that you are painting a car with a paint job that is the equivilant of a factory paint job. From that paint job, what else is done to make it look like it is wet all of the time? Is it just more coats of clear? What would be a fair price to pay for this? ie: my paint job and body work(they haven't started shooting paint yet) is going to be a "daily driver" paint job and run me $3200 with stripes. What should I expect to add to the $3200 to make it look wet? I am just looking for a ballpark.
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Old 09-22-2003, 09:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I spoke to my body guy tonight and he told me the last mustang he did cost $20,000 Can. That car looked wet for sure. When you are buffing 5 coats of clear for that perfect look you better have perfect lines and no flaws. Everything shows. Its all in the sanding.
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hello.The factory paint jobs don't have that wet look for a reason.Orange peel is the result of the paint being applied with less reducer.It has less tendency to run since it has higher viscousity,but as it hardens,since it's thicker,it doesn't lay as flat.That's the orange peel.They leave it that way because it hides wavy and mis-alligned body panels a little better.To get that slick as glass look on your car,you have to start the process before the paint is applied by starting with a slick as glass car.Then you prime the car and sand,prime and sand then prime and sand some more.On the last coat of primer I sand with 2000,then 2500,then 3000 grit.Then you apply the first color coat and sand ,color,sand,color,sand etc.Then clear,sand etc.Then buff,buff,buff and buff some more.Wait about 3 months then wax.Nothing to it. ::
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:54 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are in Arizona it is usually as simple as turning on the hose :p :p :p That might be considered an inside joke, or maybe not?
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Old 09-22-2003, 11:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey! Don't start that again! ::
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Old 09-22-2003, 11:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Buffing out the clear coat when you are done does the trick. Single stage and base coat/clear coat polyurethane paints buff out really nicely. You can also add more clear to single stage polys to increase the glossy depth.
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Old 09-23-2003, 01:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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perform a search on wetsanding paint, good articles on here...

in a nutshell, the wet look comes from as Veronica and others have stated, the removal of orangepeel and elimination of ultrafine sanding marks left by 1500-2000 grit sandpaper....

by using mirofinishing compound and machine glaze and swirl remover at the end...

lots of elbow grease and careful execution of what these articles describe will yield that wet look.

good luck.
R
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I just got a semi painted this weekend in bc/cc and the clearcoat I used was called wet look, I also did not use any thinner, in fact thinner wasn't recommended. The truck is definately glossy (2 1/2 gallons of clear!), but there is quite some orange peel (partially due to my inexperience I'm sure). PM me and I'll give you the address where I have the pics. The server wouldn't be able to handle the load of too many people which is why I'm not posting the link.
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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But does it work for a car that's in primer?
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Old 09-23-2003, 10:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Do NOT sand a car with anything finer than 600 prior to applying paint. The paint has to have something to adhere to, and sanding primer with 2000 grit before applying paint is rediculous, and not recommended by any pro shop I've ever been in contact with, nor any paint manufacturer.
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:22 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Also, in Arizona it takes a LOT of water to keep the "wet" look for any period of time due to the arid climate. I suggest WD-40 or K/Y jelly...
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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No offence to Veronica, but I agree with Emberglow. Do not sand primer with anything over 600 prior to application of BC. In fact, with most BC/CC, there is no need to sand the base color as it is typically very thin (Pearl and Metallic BC should never be color sanded). CC on the other hand is usually applied in multiple coats and is typically sanded with 1500/2000 followed by cutting/buffing compounds and swirl remover.

Bottom line, as is well noted by Veronica, ........... Hard Work, Patience and a little knowledge is what gets you the wet look

The bulletin board at www.autobodystore.com is a great knowledge source for body & paint work.

Ken
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Old 09-23-2003, 08:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The most i'd recommend sanding primer down to is 400

save the 1500-2000 for the clearcoat two weeks after shooting.

Perform a search on this and you will find past posts regarding wetsanding and buffing.

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Old 09-23-2003, 09:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Art,.........

What's "KY Jelly"? ::

and....

What's it used for?
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Old 09-23-2003, 10:44 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
What's "KY Jelly"?

and....

What's it used for?
Oh... I forgot, you're going into the Priesthood...
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