Engine guru's, tight engine after rebuild - Vintage Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Rebuilding a buddies 289. Standard bore, standard crank. Put the crank in and torqued the caps, everything turns good. Put the pistons/rods in & torqued the rods down. Still turns smooth but really tight. With a 1/2 drive rachet with a 10" handle I can turn the engine but it's a struggle. So I loosened the rods caps & it only freed it a bit. I'm thinking it's the new rings on the honed walls. There's no binding & it turns smooth, but hard as Hell.
What do you guys think?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 09:10 AM
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The 10" handle doesn't give you a lot leverage. It should be tight to some degree. I rebuilt my 351w and as I torgued down the rods, I installed one at a time and torqued one at a time. I'm thinking you don't have a probelm. Denver
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 10:17 AM
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They're supposed to be "tight". As mentioned, that tool is kinda small to be turning over that much compression. I'd go ahead and torque the rod caps to specs.
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 12:36 PM
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Are the heads on and plugs in so you are getting compression? If not, sounds too tight. Try loosening up the rod caps, and then, spin the rotating assembly. If it moves easy, then try adding them back one at a time. You may have one journal sized wrong or a 10/10 bearing that is binding, or an ring or ring set binding. I had a "professional" rebuilt engine that would not turn over except with a breaker bar. Turned out had one crank journal not turned on a 10/10 crank. With the 10/10 bearing, it was binding up when torqued.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 01:38 PM
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Are the rods installed correctly? The champher must face outward from each other.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 08:19 PM
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Cruzer, have to agree with MustangerBob on this one. Need to go back and check the clearances. If the heads are NOT on it, it sounds too tight. If the heads are on it, with no spark plugs in it, it may be ok, but I'll stress may be. It's too much money and too much work to re-do if it's not right. So better to be safe than sorry afterwards. Pull it back apart and re-check. Tony

1969 Fastback, original 302, .030 over, Performer cam, Dart 58cc iron heads, 1.94/1.60, original C4, lots and lots and lots and lots of chrome and 20 year old custom paint. She's fired again after 2 years. Sounds healthy.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-28-2003, 10:38 PM
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As a point of reference, I just went thru the 360 in my 65 F-100 and with the engine completely assembled and no spark plugs, it took 75 Ft. lbs. on the crank nut to turn the engine over. The start ::ing torque to break it loose was higher, but the turning torgue on a dial torque wrench was 70-75.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-29-2003, 02:14 AM
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I'd take the guesswork out of it and plastigauge all bearings.


"Get your facts straight first, then you can distort them as much as you wish"!!

1965 Fastback, Sunlit Gold, I6, T-5, Pertronix, CAA AC, SSBC frt discs
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-29-2003, 12:32 PM
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This happened to me. Wrong bearings!

66 coupe,V8 conversion, 87 302 roller motor, GT40 heads with 202 valves, Weiland Stealth Dual Plane Intake, mallory distributor, headers/ H pipes, C-4 tranny, Granada Disks, 8 in 3.80 posi rear, Magna performance suspension
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