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Old 12-09-2003, 10:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I recently bought the standard front suspencion rebuild kit for Laurel Mountain Mustang. This it the one where you have the shaft kit and ball joint the rebuild your existing upper control arm, not whole new ones.

I am wondering the best way and how to put in the new shaft kits in my existing upper control arms.
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Old 12-09-2003, 10:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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After removing the control arm, unthread the big nut looking thing from one end. Unscrew the shaft from the other one. Remove the other big nut.
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Old 12-09-2003, 10:50 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You have to remove the 2 big nuts on each side before you can slide the shaft out. When putting it back in, it is important to count threads and turns on the nuts in order to have the shaft centered. Failure to do so, will limit the travel of the upper a-arm and destroy the shaft/bushing.

The ball joint, assuming it's original, will have to have the old rivets drilled out. You'll need a GOOD drill bit and high speed drill to do it.

IMHO, the money saved in rebuilding upper a-arms is not worth the hassle. I've done it twice, and since then, I just buy rebuilt a-arms.
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Old 12-09-2003, 11:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the tip.

My upper control arm have had the ball joints replaced before so they already have the bolts instead of rivets. I will just have to unsrew them and screw the new ones in.
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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75% of the time the bushings (big nuts) strip out the threads in the used upper control arm making it necessary to weld them in.
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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if you MUST "rebuild" them, you need to use a correct-length pipe to hold the arm apart while you tighten the bushings....
there are 2 lengths, depending on application, but i can't remember off hand what they are....someone else here can help or i can look it up....i'll check back later after i look it up....
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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i said pipe...thet should be "spacer" since it doesn't necessarily have to be made from a piece of pipe.....but that's what i used....
and yes....you can look forward to the "rebuild" not lasting very long
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Old 12-10-2003, 10:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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"forum" is correct about the spacer. The ford manual for '67 was wrong for the size of the spacer needed. The size you need is 8 3/4". I made mine out of 5/8" solid steel pipe. The idea is to keep the flanges from bending inward as you tighten the outer shaft nuts. BTW, you will need a big vise to hold the arm and two large wrenches to tighten the nuts. As others said, make sure the shaft is centered.
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Check out the MustangSteve FAQ page. Scroll down to suspension.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/MustangSteveFAQ.html
HTH
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After destroying the fine threads in several control arms by turning the end caps off to get the shaft out, I have a thought.... Since the shaft has large course threads mated to the inner part of the end cap while the outer part of the end cap has fine threads, you will strip off the fine threads if you just spin it off the control arm. The course threads will move the end cap out faster than the fine, outer threads. Result..striped fine threads. Its possible that you must turn the shaft to relieve the binding and free up the fine threads. This may involve spinning off both end caps at the same time in a coordinated move with turning the shaft. Installation would be somewhat similar. I wish I had thought of it before I striped my old control arms and then striped a set of new ones too!
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
The course threads will move the end cap out faster than the fine, outer threads.
They look like finer threads, but actually they are the same pitch. The threads on the nut are double lead meaning there are actually two sets of threads.
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