More installation hints and tips - 66 coupe front windows - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Suisun City, CA
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Hi again,

Time to pass on the lessons learned when installing the front door glass and vent windows in the 66 coupe. Hope it helps someone - here goes:

This assumes you are beginning with a door shell that has the window regulator and scissors installed in it, the door lock, door latch hooked up, but nothing else. It's best not to have the door lock knob or pull at the top of the door installed at this point. I posted previously on how to replace the vent window weatherstripping and door glass run fuzzies. ROLL DOWN THE QUARTER WINDOW. Remove the rear seat bottom cushion.

1. clean the inside edges at the top of the door with lacquer thinner or acetone, and wipe down, removing grease, loose rust, etc. Take the window fuzzies (belt line fuzzies) and one at a time apply 3M black super weatherstrip adhesive in a thin line to the back of these strips and then install in place by pressing the prongs on these pieces into the holes in the edges of opening at the top of the door. If you want a nice secure fit and have them weather tight against the door edges, take one or more pieces of cardboard, fold in half, insert fold side down into the opening, like a wedge and push down into the door about 6 inches or more. Then use more cardboard or rags to stuff between the two folds of the cardboard to wedge it apart. This puts pressure against the fuzzies so that they seat tightly against the door edge. Any squeeze out of weatherstrip adhesive can be cleaned up with mineral spirits without damaging the paint.

2. replace the rubber bumper inside the door shell, in the bottom center of the door at this time, if you are going to replace it as part of the project. Clean out any dirt, debris, coins, keys, etc. from the inside of the door where they might block the drain holes.

3. Take the rear glass run and remove the two bolts and one nut from the back edge. Take the bottom or skinny end of the window run and insert it through the inside of the door panel facing the front of the car. Let the entire glass run lay inside the door with the wider or top end resting against the rear of the door.

4. Take the door glass and clean out all the old grease from the channels on the metal support which is below the door glass. Brake clean or lacquer thinner works well for this. Get 400 grit sandpaper and polish the face of the channel, as the rollers will run against this. Now grease the channels with white lithium grease, including greasing the face of the channels. Do NOT install the rollers at this time.

5. There are two critical pieces on the door glass. There is a shaped metal piece at the bottom front which can gouge up your paint if you let the window drop on the door and there is also a "cupped" metal piece at the bottom rear of the window. This cupped piece can give you fits as it seems too wide to fit into the opening at the top of the door. Getting the door glass into the door is all about getting this cupped piece into the door without tearing apart your new fuzzies. I tried installing the window into the door once with the fuzzies in place and another time without them in place. Makes no difference, but the fuzzies are a lot lot easier to install without the glass in the door. Hard to find room to fit the second fuzzie strip onto the door top edge.

Insert the lower front of the window through the top opening by angling the window downward. Next, drop the rear of the glass down so as to get this "cup" part into the door. I had to angle the window in different directions and move it backwards and forwards and put a little downward muscle on the rear of the window to get this rascle into the door.

6. Once this is done, leave the window resting at the bottom of the door, at an angle so something sticks up which you can grab onto, although you can always reach through the inside of the door, grab the channel and push it up). This is time to install the rear window glass channel. This is a simple matter of first lining up the stud at the bottom rear of the run with the hole in the internal mounting surface, then reaching through the 1.5 inch circle opening in the rear of the door to finger tighten the nut on the stud. Next move the run around until the two upper bolt holes line up and finger tighten the bolts. I say finger tighten on all of this because you can adjust the run to get the glass to line up to the quarter window better and to make sure it rolls up and down smoothly.

7. Now is time for installing the vent windows. They should have the washered studs removed from them (2) and also the upper mounting bolt and washer. First, move the glass so that it is resting against the rear glass run. Take the vent window and turn it 45 degrees from being parallel with the door (e.g., away from the proper mounting position). This is necessary in order to get the mounting bracket at the bottom of the glass run to fit through the opening in the top of the door. Once the mounting bracket slips into the door, turn the vent window into the proper position. The big hassle with this one is getting the somewhat squarish blob of metal at the rear base of the vent window to slide down into the door, immediately to the rear of a crosspiece inside the door. You may have to move the window glass around, even pull it partway out of the window and an angle, to do this. It will save a lot of time to have a helper hold the window glass partly up and at an angle at this time. I had to fuss at the vent window, tugging pulling, pushing, etc. until it accidently lined up correctly and slid in.

8. Break time - walk away, get a beer, stop swearing at the door, wash the dirt out of the scrapes on your arms and apply bandaids as required.

9. Now that the vent window is installed into the door, it is time to install the studs and bolt. The key here is that the washer goes between the inside of the door panel mounting area and the vent window. This means that the longer end of the stud has to find room to thread into the vent window while the washer is correctly located. It is easiest to install the upper stud first. A SKINNY assistant is helpful here as the only way I could find to access this part of the vent window frame was through the frontmost and small opening at the bottom of the inner door. You will have to angle the vent window in order to force the stud into the small space provided and then thread it into the vent window frame. The shorter end of the stud will now pretrude through the mounting hole and allow you to put a nut on it. You can grip the stud with your fingers behind the vent window frame and turn it by hand to adjust it. You want the washer just resting against the inner face of the mounting area of the door panel with very slight tension. This is an adjustment which allows you to angle the vent window in or out, which is CRITICAL to get the top seal to meet with the front top corner of the window glass.

Now you can install the lower stud and then the top bolt.

9. Take the rollers and fill the grooves with white lithium grease, and also grease the faces. One roller goes into a short channel mounted inside the door panel face and one of the scissor arms pushes into it. The other two rollers go into the channel in the window glass "frame". put the glass into position (might have to roll the scissors up or down to get the scissors located so that you can reach them through the inner face of the door panel), slide one roller into each end of the channel, then slide the roller in the channel until aligned in front of the scissor end and push the geased end of the scissor into the roller. The window is now mounted.

10. Roll up the window and see if the top front corner of the glass meets up with the top seal on the vent window. Recognize that this seal is OFFSET~!~! so the door glass seems to be at a different plane with the vent glass. That is the way it is supposed to be. I spent an hour or so trying to adjust this out of the alignment, only to learn from looking at my 65 that it is the factory position. You might find yourself adjusting the vent window frame to the front or rear (usually to the rear so as to get a good fit at the top seal). You want to angle the rear glass run and the front glass run so that they are identical in terms fo the angle relative to plumb - the verticle angle or degrees of departure from straight up and down. The lower stud on the front glass run is the adjustment point for this, although the rear glass run angle is important to get things to line up with the quarter window. Use the quarter window as a guide. I tried to align the door glass as much as possible to the rear of the door. You will also want to align the vent window so that the base of the frame is level. The two studs and bolt help to do this, although the bolt probably has the greatest impact on this.

11. roll the window up and down a few times to check for smooth operation and to admire your work.

12. Now, the quarter window can be adjusted front to rear using three bolts (or were they nuts) - two at the top of the metal frame inside the door and one at the bottom. the idea here is to make as tight a gap as you can without having the upper rear corner of the door glass hang up on the weatherstripping on the quarter window. Open and close the door a few times to check this. Now, look to see if the angle of the quarter window and the door glass is the same - that is the tilt in at the top of the window and the tilt out at the bottom. I had to loosen the strike and then loosen the door hinges and tilt the door up and down and in and out to get the quarter window/door glass to line up. The two nuts at the bottom of the quarter window mounting frame, at the base by the rocker inside the body opening in the car, provide the adjustment for tilting the quarter window in and out at the top/bottom.

13. Once the adjustments are done, tighten all of the door bolts firmly (1/2 inch socket). It is time to install the watershields on the inner faces of the door and quarter window area. I found it neater NOT to apply the seam sealer (I cheated and used cheap old latex caulk)to the metal, but to the inner face of the watershields. The side I applied to the metal oozed the gunk out around the edges of the water shield and it looked awful when the door panels were installed. Applying to the watershield instead made sure that I did not have any ooze out that showed up once the panels were installed.

14. There is nothing else to add here, I just did not want to stop at 13 steps.

Rebuilding a classic mustang is a reality check on your individual state of perfection.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-03-2004, 10:48 PM
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I saved this thread as a favorite, thanks. I just spent an entire day trying to line up my pass door glass several weeks ago. I wish I'd have had your post to reference.

My brother is installing his door guts on his 65 coupe and we put the door glass in ahead of the fuzzies. Then we let the glass drop down as far as possible by adjusting the stops lower. Next we popped in the inner door fuzzy. After that, we loosened the rear glass run and angled it inwards as much as possible to allow an additional 1/8" for popping in the outboard fuzzy.

Another thing, when adjusting the rear glass run...The exposed retaining bolts in the door jamb have those nasty non-removable star washers which gouge on the paint while loosening/tightening them when adjusting on that run. You can temporarily insert a regular flat washer ahead of the star washer to prevent paint gouging while adjusting.

_______68 Mustang Fastback_________
Fuel Injected 302 - 4 Speed. Lots of Goodies.
twotoots2 is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2004, 01:17 AM
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Location: Melbourne. Victoria. Australia
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Replacing door glass would have to be my pet hate while restoring Mustangs, it always sends a shiver up my spine when a customer asks for this to be done. My knuckles and fingers take months to recover from any sought of door glass replacement.

Greatly appreciated for your time and effort in this post. Lets hope people learn and take there time while doing this painful task.
If not lets hope there is plenty of beer and band aids available to those unlucky ones.
:p :p :p :p

its only original once!
outlawinc is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-04-2004, 05:53 PM
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Location: Calgary
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Very good instructions. One comment though from my experience. The difference may be because I have a 65 fastback, though I doubt it. I had to do the beltline fuzzies after dropping the window down into the door. I could not fit the bottom rear of the glass down into the door with the fuzzies in place, clearance was less than the backing of the fuzzies. Maybe I had really narrow window openings. :p Anyway the fuzzies popped into place easily with the window at the bottom of the door. YMMV.

65 2+2, 289 C4
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 04:13 PM
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I have new doors with nothing in them yet, would you put the crank and sizor back in before starting the glass?
pmatasso is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 06:11 PM
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Bookmarked for when I get to re-installing the windows. Been long enough I'm sure I will look at the pics I took and think "huh"

Thanks for Posting
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-02-2014, 06:15 PM
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I'll be installing vent windows on my 66 very soon.

I'm keeping this one favorited as well. Thanks very much!

"Natalie", '66 Coupe, aka "Jinx", "Jinxie Natalie" (everything goes wrong..)
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake/Water Pump, Northern Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Soundproof, new carpet, tilt column (done), seat extenders, Motolita MK3 (done)
Exterior/Body/Performance:T5 (done) weatherstripping, power steering (done)
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 09-26-2014, 06:28 PM
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Bookmarking... thanks for posting!
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