My son picked up a good running ’88 Lincoln Mark VII LSC last week for $360. He wants to take the 5.0 HO engine and 4 speed AOD tranny and put it into his ’70 Cougar. I know that some board members have made this swap. Can anyone give us some tips and pointers? Also, if you had to do it again, what would you do differently. Or, would you even do it at all?
What is your budget? There are many options w/a roller block and AOD. You can keep the EFI or swap to a carb. Using the Search function will locate more info on this swap. I highly recommend rebuilding the AOD before installation. Good luck.
__________________ "What we have here is--failure to communicate."
67 GTA (clone) coupe, DSS 331 stroker w/AFR 165 (soon to be replaced), 9" Detroit Tru-Trac 3.00:1, Edelbrock 1405/Performer intake, Borgeson P/S, AOD, JBA EFI shorties, Cobra brakes (Vintage Venom kit), 17x8 silver Bullitts, JME panel and a lot of neat stuff that I can't remember
The only issues with 5.0 vs 289 are from the changes that Ford made when revising the 302 block to modern 5.0 specs. They made the crank pulley 4 bolt (same as 71-on 302), added a dipstick hole in the side of the block, changed the internal balancing to 50oz, revised the block slightly to fit a roller lifter camshaft, and deleted the hole in the side of the block that the Vintage clutch linkage goes into
Here's how to address these issues. The dipstick hole can be plugged with a 1/8 wooden dowel, a piece of cork, or tapped and fitted with a 1/8in NPT plug (from the hardware store). There are adapters sold by most Mustang places to use the old clutch linkage on a 5.0 ($50). There are conversion flywheels available from Summit for using an early model transmission on a 5.0 with the different imbalance. The 4-bolt pulley issue can be corrected by a 3 bolt conversion balacer (Ford Performance make the cheapest one), or you can steal the pulleys and brackets off a LTD or TownCar for serpintine, or steal the pulleys and brackets off of a 71+ 302 for v belt. Also, Ford Performance makes 4-bolt v-belt pulleys.
The quickest way, IMHO, to do the 5.0 swap (on an auto) is to use your front cover, accessories, brackets, waterpump, and pullies, and buy the Ford Perf. balancer. Plug the dipstick hole, and buy a TCI conversion flexplate from Summit. That conversion would be $75 for the balancer, and $60 for the flexplate. Good proceedure would be to get new motor mounts, waterpump, and fuelpump too. Your exhaust, intake & carb, ect will bolt on if need be. The 5.0 timing cover can be drilled for the original dipstick tube (not on 94+ or crate motors though), and you need to use an old oil pan.
As for EFI, MAF is easiest, and accepts modifcations painlessly, but often a little rarer. The myth that SD EFI cannot be modified is untrue; you just need to choose the camshaft carefully to avoid running/idle issues.
Personally, I'm building a carb'ed 5.0 with ported 351W heads, and I'm going to use big block chevy head bolt washers to compensate for the bolt size difference.
As far as EFI, the normal shocktower braces won't fit, and you either have to relocate the battery or use a shortened (Homemade) K&N setup to clear the stock battery, as M+ did with their EFI 289 GT Coupe. You have to provide for a return fuel line and wire it all up (which isn't too hard, just lengthy). To put in a return line, I'd just add a fitting to the stock sending unit. As far as the fuel pump, some people have had good luck with a frame-mounted F150 pump from a junkyard.
You can also use your stock waterpump with the 5.0 timing cover, contrary to popular belief (just ask JohnPro).
The squirrels in my head have spoken.
Cobra 5.0L & AOD swap, here we come.
Like nostangyet is saying, there are several EASY modifications that must be made to use the HO motor. There will be plenty of time later to address these specific issues and there are many ways to make it work any way you like.
I suggest you need to make some general decisions first.
1) Will you use EFI or Carb?
2) If EFI, then will you use v-belt or serpentine?
Once you make these two decisions, then the way will be clear. There are a variety of pros and cons with each method that you will want to review.
If you are set on Carb, then read no further, but if you choose to go EFI, I have the following comments: Many of us have spent our entire life with Carburetors. We have learned the ins and outs of making them work.
When it comes to EFI, we are basically starting over. We should not expect to instantly be experts. If we do some studying then there is no reason we cannot be able to make this system work.
If you want some help, I will give any advice or assistance I can. If you have a running HO car then you can definitely make the motor run in your mustang with EFI. The 88 Mark 7 is a little tougher than an 88 mustang because it has some wires related to the cruise controls that you will have to wade through. It is really fun once you learn to read codes and make it work.
Imagine zero degrees outside and you open the door to your stang and without even getting in the car you turn the key. It starts instantly and runs until warm with no racing idle or dying.
To start learning about what the EEC-IV computer system does, there is a powerpoint slideshow (borrowed from somewhere) on my website under the EFI link. It's at the bottom of the page.
The second thing I recommend is to pick up a copy of "Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control". It's by Charles O. Probst. This book is like a bible for the EEC-IV EFI system. There are two versions depending on the year model you are working on.
I am looking forward to hearing about your progress.
nostangyet is mostly correct, but the crank pulley went to the 4 bolt style in '70 so if you wanted to transfer your v-belt pullies onto the 5.0 you should be OK as long as you swap on the standard rotation water pump with the pullies. I think the easiest route however would be to just keep the serpentine set up from the Lincoln, that way there isn't any issue with the water pump rotation, you can just leave it all as is. You also don't need to buy a conversion flexplate. The Lincoln already has an AOD bolted up to the motor, so there's no need to even separate the engine from trans. You only need a conversion flexplate if you're putting an AOD behind an early 28 oz balance engine. You do need a front sump oil pan which means you'll need a timing cover mounted dipstick. If you keep the EFI the AOD TV cable will bolt up as it did in the Lincoln, but if you decide to use a carb you'll need a TV adapter cable (Lokar makes a nice one) to hook it up to the carb linkage and eiter an AOD shifter or shifter adapter linkage from Windsor-Fox to use your Cougar shifter with the AOD. You'll also need to address the fuel pump issue. You can either get an electric pump for carbs (lower psi than EFI pumps) and plumb it into the fuel line from your Cougars gas tank or you'll have to change the timing cover to one that has the mechanical fuel pump opening.
"It's not having what you want, it's wanting what you've got!" - Sheryl Crow
As most people have said it depends a lot on what you plan to do EFI vs. Carb. I am about 85% done with this project as we speak and it's the little things that are taking up time. I dropped an entire 5.0 EFI/AOD Speed Density combo in. As mentioned, since it was an entire unit I didn't have to worry about water pump, balancer/flexpate issues adn pullies but then again I haven't started the car yet. I am just about to start the wiring which for me is the easy part. Other things that you will need to worry about if you go EFI is the fuel system up grades, shock towers, sppedo cable, gas pedal and a few other things. If WF is still in business the crossmemeber save soem time if you not good at fab work.
I have a TON of info on this swap if you need something specific.
Just a point to check on; I am not familiar with the Lincoln...
As I recall the AOD came in a short version and a long version, the short version being preferred for Mustang applications. I also seem to recall the Lincoln being the long version of the AOD. I have no idea if the long version will cause major headaches or simply require you to cut the drive shaft.
Sorry I can not give hard advise on this, I just wanted to warn of a possible issue.
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