self etching vs. primer/sealer...does it matter which one? - Vintage Mustang Forums
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Old 01-10-2005, 07:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I am going to be taking some spots in my engine compartment down to bare metal, but not the entire compartment. I am a little confused about which type of primer would be the best in this application. I know self-etching has acid that helps it adhere to bare metal, but what about applying it over existing paint? Is a primer/sealer any different?

I will probably end up getting primer on areas of existing paint in the priming process and want to make sure I don't have any adhesion problems down the line. I also want to make sure the bare metal is thoroughly protected. My plan is to topcoat with Krylon 1613.

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Old 01-10-2005, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you use DP90, it is an epoxy primer that is a semi gloss black and looks great!
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Old 01-11-2005, 12:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you use DP90, it is an epoxy primer that is a semi gloss black and looks great!
I agree, that is what I used in my engine compartment.



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Old 01-11-2005, 12:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Am assuming you don't have spray equip as you are using 1613. Have spray equip and still use 1613 on engine cmpts. Self etching primer instructions recommend coating it with a primer surfacer and mention that it is compatible with MOST automotive paint systems. When doing the engine bay on a 66 cv that sat outside for years and had surface rust, I wirewheeled it with a very agressive braided wire wheel for use with a DeWalt angle grinder. Finishing that, I sprayed it with Ospho(phosphoric acid) and let it dry for a couple days. Sanded it with 80,120, 180, and primed it with a zinc rich primer. Wet sanded it finishing with 320 and sprayed it with the Krylon. Reason I use Krylon is that it is easy to get and easy to spot in scratches, etc. Even Bob Perkins had made favorable comments about 1613. A word about self-etching primer: keep it off bare potmetal surfaces. It is corrosive and will get into the pores of potmetal and raise hell with the finish paint. Saw a 67 cv that was painted Dark Moss green with Sikkens products and self etch primer. A portion of the potmetal surfaces had lifting problems that was traced to the etch primer. It was the phosphoric acid that did the number. This was determined after the owner talked to a tech with the company.
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Old 01-11-2005, 03:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Couple questions to GaryA in conn.. By DP90 can I assume you mean a PPG product? Also, will moisture penatrate the DP? I guess that you just left the DP90 and didn't sand or top coat in any way. The photo looks GREAT !
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Old 01-11-2005, 04:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Visit Paintucation .com , they've got a forum that you'll find very helpful with paint/body questions.
The forum has been around a while but recent site relocation has placed the archives temporarily unavailable.
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Old 01-11-2005, 05:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Couple questions to GaryA in conn.. By DP90 can I assume you mean a PPG product? Also, will moisture penatrate the DP? I guess that you just left the DP90 and didn't sand or top coat in any way. The photo looks GREAT !
Sorry, I am not him, but I am the one that brought up using DP90. It is a PPG product that is an epoxy resin that is solvent and moisture proof. The stuff is very nice to use on engine compartments since it is semi gloss black and very tough. Just don't get on things you don't want it on since it is an epoxy based product. There is no need to top coat it and spotting it in incase of a scratch is easy!!
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Old 01-14-2005, 09:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just keep in mind after 7 days DP 40 can not be topcoated unless you spray more DP 40 on top. You have to top it within 7 days if you plan to paint or primer it.
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