4 weeks ago I received a couple cans of Eastwood's Silver High Temp Coating spray to apply to my newly aquired HiPo manifolds. A couple days prior to painting, I cleaned the manifolds with Acetone, etc to remove grime and grit. A couple days after applying 2 coats of paint, I noticed that if I lightly rub the manifolds, silver paint would easily appear on my finger tips. I called their tech support who said that I probably have to wait a full week for it to cure.
That was 3 weeks ago. Tonight I went out to my shop and lightly rubbed them again resulting again with silver paint easily appearing on my finger tips.
Is this the norm? I'm afraid to install the manifolds and fire it up thinking that this paint will set off a nuclear reaction and the fumes will knock me off. At this point it seems I have no choice but to remove all the paint off with Acetone or whatever and start all over again.
Maybe I should just give up in trying to paint them. Anyone have similar problems with this stuff?
While I've never used the Eastwood product, I have had great sucess with VHT paint. In addition to the usual surface prep, after painting I "cured" them in our oven at about 500°. Don't remember how long but I think there are instructions on the can.
Good Luck, Jim Finley
Funny you should mention VHT. I have had a can sitting on my desk for the past two weeks. I used it on the new rear brake drums prior to installing them.
CURING: Coating will air dry in 2 hours. Baking for 60 min at 600*F provides a more durable surface for handling, resistance to salt spray and humidity. Curing may be accomplished by the inherent heat of operation, such as encountered in engine manifolds and exhaust. ALL CURING MUST BE DONE SLOWLY
"There is no problem that can't be ignored if we just put our minds to it" - King Ralph
I have the Eastwoods grey hi-temp manifold paint. It will rub off until the manifold paint is heat cured. Once I ran the engine for about 10 minute, let it cool down overnight, then ran it again and let it cool, the paint did not rub off. I really like the look as the manifolds look brand new and untreated.
Rebuilding a classic mustang is a reality check on your individual state of perfection.
Ken is right on the gray Eastwood paint. It needs to cure. I sandblasted my manifolds over 2 years ago, coated them 2 times with the gray paint, letting it dry overnight each time. They were installed on the car and still look great today after 2 years running. I just pulled them off last week to put the new engine in and I would not HAVE to coat them again, because they still look very good. (The new engine will get ceramic coated long tube headers.) But I was impressed with the Eastwood coating. Can't speak for acetone to clean the manifolds. It seems like it might leave some residual junk on them. That was the reason I used sand and blasted them.
1969 Fastback, original 302, .030 over, Performer cam, Dart 58cc iron heads, 1.94/1.60, original C4, lots and lots and lots and lots of chrome and 20 year old custom paint. She's fired again after 2 years. Sounds healthy.
Give your wife the credit card to go out shopping and when she's gone put them in the oven @ 350-400 for about 1/2 hour. Then cook dinner for your wife before she gets home (disguises the paint smell in house) Works well for wrinkle paint valve covers also.
What 70Sportsroof said. I used them on my 351w manifolds (swapped those for some shorty headers). After I painted them and let them dry to the touch, I bolted them up and drove around to let the heat bake the paint on. I believe that Eastwood mentions that in the directions somewhere. Anyway, I had those on for 2 years and I never say any rust on the manifolds.
"When the chips are down, the buffalo is empty"
Brett C. MCA#51647-'68 FB w/289, T-5, Dark Highland Green, 3.40 8"
Funny how the can or the tech support never mentioned anything about having to cure, BUT on the can the only comment that comes close is "Once installed, run engine for at least 20 minutes".
Goes to show you that only the true experienced knows what to do. My wife would kill me if she caught any wind that I did this in her new Miele convection oven. Besides she told me that her work has a big ole oven used for similar reasons and she'll ask around tomorrow.
At worst case, I'll just install them and fire it up letting the engine do all the work.
Thanks for the headsup.
By the way, I'm testing some VHT satin black for possible dash and other interior applications. It's can does say "Allow 24 hours to dry throughly before handling. Allow 30 days for full cure before waxing or buffing".
I used POR 15 on my 351W manifolds. I think sandblasting is the best because no residue is left. I bolted mine up and heat cured them on the engine. The oven curing is not needed and could cost you with SWMBO. You could smell the paint for about three weeks after I installed the mainifolds. They still look great, no rust.
66 coupe, 289, 500cfm, Weiand, Hipo exhaust manifolds, WC T5 trans, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3.40 gears, KH 11" front disc, Porterfield R4-S pads, 1" front sway bar, Shelby quick steer kit, GT progressive rate coils, 4.5 leaf mid-eye, KYB Gas-A-Just front & KYB GR-2 rear, export brace, Monti-Carlo bar, Global West sub-frame connectors, performance alignment (+5 caster/-1 camber), 16" x 7" wheels, 215/55/16 and 225/55/16 Toyo Proxes4 tires
I've used it a few times. Definitely has to be cured in the oven or on the car within specified time.
Don't let your wife catch you using her oven to bake them.
Not a good situation. Ask me how I know?
If you plan to keep your car and want to only do it once...I recomend having them ceramic coated. I had mine done for $150.00 and they also bead blast them completely first. The other huge benefit is better flow and WAY less heat in the engine bay. After running car for 1/2 hour or longer you can put your hand inches from manifold and barely feel some warmth coming of! :shocked2:
They can be done in a cast grey also...here is a pic of mine.
I have done at least a dozen sets for guys using the eastwoods stuff and it has been great. I will say sandblasting is almost a must. I have never used a oven just install- start engine- and let it cook the stuff on. However POR15 has a product similar and like its name,, it is POOR. They refused to even comment about the POR results I got(I even sent pics to them), and I since went back to what works.
Robbie "It doesn't cost any more to go first class,,You just can't stay as long"
67 GT 500 #1590 "Shelly"
67 Chevy II nova "Sherry"
833 HP 542 CI Dart alum motor
'32 Ford Tudor Rod
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