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Old 05-21-2005, 03:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Are there any tricks? Used the impact gun to zing out the center bolt, and don't see any holes in order to use a puller. Just wondering if there's something obvious here that I'm missing.

Thanks,
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Old 05-21-2005, 08:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Timely post- I was looking at mine today wondering the same thing. I seem to remember the AC shop guys had a bunch of special pullers for different applications, maybe someone will chime in to clue us in... ::
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Old 05-21-2005, 08:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's been awhile, but I seem to remember using a large bolt (5/8"-11 maybe) in the center bolt hole to force the clutch away from the compressor. There should be threads in the clutch hole for this. And I think I had to make a spanner wrench to hold the clutch still while I did it (had two little tabs that stuck into the holes on the face of the clutch). If nobody can confirm (or deny) this for you by tomorrow, I'll go up to where my fastback is stored and refresh my memory.

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Old 05-21-2005, 09:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Yes, I noticed those threads, and just happened to find a 5/8 coarse thread grade 8 bolt on the bench. I had used that bolt previously to remove the electric PTO clutch from my garden tractor in just the same fashion. Soooooo, I threaded that thing in there, but still need to hold the clutch center from moving to get it off. Upon further inspection, it looks like a need a spanner wrench to hold it, just like you mentioned. Guess I could just call Classic Auto Air on Monday. Naaaah, I think I'll just make the tool, somehow.....unless there is another trick here that I don't know.

Thanks again,
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Once the bolt is out, you can tap lightly on the back edge of the clutch and it should fall off.
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Energize the clutch and the compressor will hold the clutch still so you can turn the bolt. An impact wrench works best, but you only have to tighten the bolt a very slight amount to get it to pop loose.
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Old 05-21-2005, 11:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Charles,

It can't be that easy, can it? No way, this is a Mustang I'm working on, remember?

Also, after cleaning the grease from the compressor, I found an ink stamped "R-12" on the side, in between the service ports. Is that stamped on all 65/66 cars? The compressor is a Tecumseh that was pulled from an all original, early 65 convertible. My car is a 66, C-code, May 6 build date. Should it have the stamp?

Thanks!
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Old 05-22-2005, 12:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Also, after cleaning the grease from the compressor, I found an ink stamped "R-12" on the side, in between the service ports. Is that stamped on all 65/66 cars? The compressor is a Tecumseh that was pulled from an all original, early 65 convertible. My car is a 66, C-code, May 6 build date. Should it have the stamp?
If you notice, the tag on the A/C compressor has a date code on it.

Most unrestored Mustangs I've seen with factory A/C had the R-12 stamp on the side.
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Old 05-22-2005, 04:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool, thanks.

Would you believe that it just popped right off with literally, three light taps of the ball peen hammer? I mean, light taps, too. Go figure. Thanks again for stating the obvious. Made my life easier.
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'66 Coupe - The 15 year restoration is finally finished!

'87 Saleen #194 - Daily driver - I buy Fox-body Saleen parts, email me.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...Burgandy66.jpg[color:black][/color]
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