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Old 05-17-2006, 08:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I plan on using some PPG epoxy primer over the whole car soon, and am going to paint the undercarriage, interior, and engine bay (black, for all 3). Is there a specific paint code I should get or just use semi-gloss? (Inside of doors, dash, etc). Also, while for the exterior of the car i will ues a bc/cc, for the interior and engien bay and undercarriage just looking for some single stage paint.. DOes Omni make a cheaper version of this? Thanks guys!
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Omni is what I used on mine (painted it in my garage), however, I used BC/CC from them. It's just PPG w/out the advertising costs tied in, so if you can use it, go ahead, the quality is fine.
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The biggest complain with Omni paints is their basecoats... they tend to not cover as well as PPG basecoats. I use the Omni epoxy primer with good success and plenty of people use their clearcoat just fine (tends to be a little yellower than the regular PPG stuff, but works well).

Omni does, however, make a single stage black urethane that I got. It covers good (since it is single stage) but it is full gloss. I think they call it OEM Black, I forget the Part Num. You will have to pick up the flattening agent to flatten it to a semi-gloss. When you are flattening any paint it is tough to match two batches so you are better off mixing everything you will need at once and flattening it all at once, or just look for a semi-gloss to begin with.
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I painted my wing, and side scoop inserts on my '69 and the rear window trim of my daughter's '69 with the Omni BC/CC (black).

Get some PPG AcryliClean (bug/tar remover) when you buy the paint. If you wipe the area to be painted with the AcryliClean (and wipe it back off), the Omni is VERY easy to shoot and works great. If there's ANY dust on the part to be shot, though, expect the paint to check. My first 2 attempts didn't work well at all, but the 3rd attempt, after using the AcryliClean went smooth as silk.

I found the coverage to be fine. You will probably want a flattening agent, like mentioned, though, for the interior.
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Old 05-17-2006, 04:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.. GOing to phone some body shops and see what they charge..
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I picked up a gallon of PPG omni AU primer and 2 things of catalyst.. Didn't pick up the paint as nobody was there yet who could tell me anything. We couldn't decide on a colour, so should I just go for semi-gloss then, or does someone have a paint code? I'm only doing interior, engine bay and undercarriage? Not that I'm going for pure originality here, so if it's ugly or someone has a better idea, let me know.. Also, nobody at this paint store had heard of Picklex, or Ospho or anything. I know people recommend these here, but i can't find anything locally for hte life of me, and I don't have time to order anything online (And duty and what not is a pain) Are they necessary? I'm going to hit the rest of the old DP50 with 80 grit or something on a DA and get the new sheetmetal down to bare metal (Omni can go overtop of the DP50 correct?), is that cool? ALso, I want to use a single stage due to the fact that it's easier for interior, engine bay, undercarriage (But the exterior will be getting bc/cc).. What specific line of paint (is it just called 'Omni'? Dude recommended against mixing a flattener in it (Omni only comes in gloss black) and said he's make me up something else from PPG? Wanted to use what he kept calling "Industrial" paint? What kind of paint am I looking for anyways? Ahh, so many questions.. I'm just doing some garage painting, as I don't need these specific areas perfect.. When would I use a tack cloth and what not? Necessary? OMNI seems to only have a recoat window of 3 days, and I don't have the paint, and won't until at least 24 hours after spraying.. Is it actually ok right up to 3 days? Thanks guys!
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Johnny, I quit painting cars about 9 years ago, so things might have changed since then, but I used PPG products almost exclusively. Not professionally, but in the little town that I lived in at the time, I painted about 100 to 150 cars/ motorcycles/horse trailers, even one airplane. Omni is NOT the top quality paint. It is, however, top of the line in the cheaper paints. Get what I mean As far as using gloss black in the engine bay and bottom of car, I think it is UGLY. Just use the PPG single stage gloss black accrylic enamel, then use a flatten agent. You do not want flat black, nor gloss black, an "eggshell" black. A little of the flattening agent goes a long ways. Use some test panels untill you get the mix correct. However, if your set on OMNI, call the PPG help desk and ask the about using flattening agent in the OMNI line. Any paint shop that "couldn't tell me anything", I'd change paint shops! Thats their livlyhood, they SHOULD be able to tell you EVERYTHING about their product. But, then again, use the PPG help desk, maybe on line?? Best of luck, Ken
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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THanks man. For the exterior of the car, I was going to use some better PPG paint, but I hear the Omni epoxy primer is almost if not the same stuff as the DP stuff? Please (PLEASE! ) correct me if I'm wrong. What could be different about it?
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Old 05-22-2006, 06:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Decided to scuff today, so I dragged teh stang outside and had at it with a sandblaster for some tiny areas I couldn't reach, but then on the areas where I plan to shoot another coat of epoxy and single stage, I just took a DA with 80 on it and just quickly went over the surfaces.. Is this far too coarse for scuffing, or can I never be too coarse? Not really concerned about scratches showing through on the undercarriage and floor pans if ya know what I mean, but will the paint stick? Also, what about those impossible to get areas? For example on the top of the rad support there is a U channel kind of carved into the top, and on the undercarriage there are tons of places I won't be able to reach. Anyways, mostly concerned about the grit, I can figure out the nooks and crannies I guess. I think I stuck on 150 or so on the DA when I ran out of 80, but as I said, it's getting another coat of epoxy. Also had some 120 or something on a board sander (By hand) and just went over it.. Really not much, just until the color of the epoxy went a slightly duller.. Doesn't FEEL scuffed, but i guess it wouldn;t? I dunno. THanks!
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Old 05-22-2006, 09:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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JohnnyK:

Omni epoxy primer is basically the same as PPG epoxy primer. It only comes in one color (although that might have changed by now) and has a 3-day recoat window instead of a 7-day; there are other minor differences as well, but if you're on a budget and you want a good bang for the buck, I recommend it.

As far as Picklex/Ospho, the answer you probably want to hear is: they are not 100% necessary. The epoxy primer is a very good sealer and blocks all water/oxygen from reaching the metal. Thus, if there is any rust there, it will effectively contain it and keep it from spreading (within reason... we are talking light surface type rust almost invisible). However, what you don't want to hear is that if you want to do it correctly, you should hit the area with a converter like Picklex/Ospho first. The good news is, if you can't find Ospho (nobody carries picklex you basically have to order it online so you'll have more luck finding Ospho retail) you can actually use just plain phospheric acid, which should be available at most hardware stores. This is the active ingredient that neuteralizes the rust (iron oxide) and converts it to black rust (iron phosphate).

Good luck.
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