Duraspark Troubleshoot pt ___ - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-26-2007, 01:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

All right it is time for another day of find the grinch who stole my spark.

From the replies I've read - I need to get 12v at the + terminal and red/green wire on the coil. As it stands right now I have the red wire coming off my duraspark tied into the brown wire that used to go to the I terminal on the solenoid. This is the setup I'm using below :



Should I connect the red wire into the red/green wire near the ignition? On another troubleshoot site I've noticed that people splice an additional ground wire to get a better ground for the module?

If I can't get spark eventhough I get above 6v+ at run and 12v at crank should I look at a new coil? -or- focus on trouble shooting the module?

I know I'm asking a ton of stuff but here is one more thought. I have not been able to set the timing either. Would cause the module retard the spark or not spark at all?
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-26-2007, 01:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
66HertzClone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: -74.79393 40.73716
Posts: 3,586
Default

I don't see in your profile or on this post what year your car is but, I unplugged the resistor wire from the ignition switch under the dash and ran a new wire to the coil directly from there. The resistor wire usually will have a woven fabric cover over it and at least on my 66 had a round disconnect an inch or two away from the ignition switch. I tied the red-green stripe wire that did connect to the coil off to the side.

I'm almost certain the I terminal on the solenoid only has current when the key is in the "start" position. The brown wire supplies the coil with 12 volts during cranking to ease starting.

The white wire retards the ignition timing when cranking to ease starting.
66HertzClone is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 01:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 66HertzClone
I don't see in your profile or on this post what year your car is but, I unplugged the resistor wire from the ignition switch under the dash and ran a new wire to the coil directly from there. The resistor wire usually will have a woven fabric cover over it and at least on my 66 had a round disconnect an inch or two away from the ignition switch. I tied the red-green stripe wire that did connect to the coil off to the side.

I'm almost certain the I terminal on the solenoid only has current when the key is in the "start" position. The brown wire supplies the coil with 12 volts during cranking to ease starting.

The white wire retards the ignition timing when cranking to ease starting.
Ok that sounds like a plan. I'll run a new wire out to the coil from what was the pink wire connection at the ignition switch.

Where do I connect the red wire from the module after that? Should I still keep the white wire from the module going to the I terminal at the solenoid?
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
66HertzClone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: -74.79393 40.73716
Posts: 3,586
Default

Connect the red wire from the module to the positive side of the ignition coil. I would keep the white wire, it certainly cannot hurt and does help the engine start easier.
66HertzClone is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 06:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

I ran a jumper from the positive post on the coil to the positive on the battery. I didn't get any spark. I wanted to try this before adding a new wires 66hertz suggested. Would this indicate a bad coil?

I also check the harness from the dizzy to the module I was able to get a reading from my volt meter on each one. I also added another ground to the harness.
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 06:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
cmayna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Menlo Park, CA.
Posts: 10,796
Default

Can't say that the following applies to you but here's is the diagram I used when I installed the painless kit in Red along with Mr. Sparky (Duraspark). It's the one at the bottom.

click to enlarge

__________________
'50 Chevy 1/2......'65 coupe/302/AOD......'68 fb/351c/T5Z
cmayna is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 06:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

That's almost identical to the one I put up from mustang steve however the painless shows red/white going to the coil - I thought it was red/green?

What's throwing me for a loop now is that I get nothing even though I'm running a jumper wire to the positive of the coil.

__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 09:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,652
Default

In stock configurations, the "I" terminal on the solenoid supplies a full 12V to the ignition system only while the engine is cranking. When you release the ignition key to the "run" position after engine start up, the solenoid is disengaged (starter stops cranking), and the 12V at the "I" terminal is also disengaged. This results in reduced voltage measured at the "I" terminal because it is now being fed only through the resistance wire (pink) circuit. To install the Duraspark ignition box, you need a switched 12V supply to the "red" wire on the Duraspark box. On my 66 Fastback, I disconnected the PINK wire at the ignition switch (red-green ignition switch wire) and plugged in a new wire (non-resistance wire) to feed the Duraspark box. I didn't use the white wire and have had no issues with start up; however, I have a high-torque starter.
The coil is another issue to consider. As far as I know, Ford Duraspark coils required a resistance wire to reduce the 12V voltage after startup. I know this is true on my 85 Mustang GT with Duraspark. So, unless you are running a coil specifically designed for 12V (non-Ford), it will need a resistance feed. I'm using an MSD 12V coil on the Fastback so I didn't have this problem. Also, I think that some of the later TFI Ford coils (after Duraspark) had a different look/construction and can take a full 12V.
FYI, I'm using an MSD billet distributor and drive it with the Duraspark box. The mag pickup in the MSD is the same pickup that's used in Duraspark distributors. I had some issues with the MSD 6AL box and installed the Duraspark box as a back up in case of problems. I can switch between the two boxes and have not been able to tell the difference in engine performance (by the seat of the pants).


__________________
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~lfrank1/trackeng1.jpg

66 Fastback Restomod (342 stroker, T5 12.8 @ 112 mph)
85 GT Hatchback
2008 Bullitt
BernieFrank is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 09:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

I just got done doing the same thing. Ran a new red wire from where the pink wire used to come out on the ignition, tied it into the red wire from the duraspark module and both of them to the coil. I'm still not getting spark. I've got power going into the + on the coil.

I also replaced the coil with one from a duraspark unit. 85 mustang. Only two things have not been changed the module and the dizzy itself. The module is a new blue grommet made in the usa gem. I guess I need to swap it out next.

For something that is supposed to be easy what an f-ing pain in the ***.
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 09:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 201
Default

I used this diagram and ran new wires where they needed to be.
Shrinkdude is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 10:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,652
Default

Are you using the Duraspark wiring harnesses and connectors (between the box, distributor, and coil)? The diagram that Shrinkdude posted is basically the same thing that I did (except for the white wire hookup). Note that a "real" 12V coil is specified in the diagram; and I think the 85 coil that you are using may need a resistance circuit. However, that wouldn't keep it from starting; just eventually burn out the coil. If everything is hooked up correctly and still no spark, then it must be either the box, mag pickup, or the coil. The mag pickup in my 85GT distributor went up one time and killed the spark. Were these parts used? I picked up my Duraspark stuff for the 66 really cheap from a local junk yard (Crazy Rays) and everything worked OK.

__________________
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~lfrank1/trackeng1.jpg

66 Fastback Restomod (342 stroker, T5 12.8 @ 112 mph)
85 GT Hatchback
2008 Bullitt
BernieFrank is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 10:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

All new parts except of the harness which I cleaned and re-soddered. I check it to make sure current is passing through. As the car sits right now I'm 100% like the setups you mentioned. Before that I used the other diagram off mustangsteve. What concerns me is that I got nothing using a jumper wire over to the coil.

I'm going to hit the bone yard for another module and i'll be in the garage tomorrow. If anyone in the redondo beach/los angeles area wants to take a peek let me know.

__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 10:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,652
Default

By the way....After looking at the diagram in your first post question, it looks like the box would not get a full 12V. I don't know if it would operate properly on less than 12V. Also, in that diagram, the stock type coil would not get a full 12V during cranking either (like in a stock ignition). The one from Shrinkwrap appears correct to me. Did that first diagram come recommended from somewhere?


__________________
http://userpages.umbc.edu/~lfrank1/trackeng1.jpg

66 Fastback Restomod (342 stroker, T5 12.8 @ 112 mph)
85 GT Hatchback
2008 Bullitt
BernieFrank is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-26-2007, 10:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BernieFrank
By the way....After looking at the diagram in your first post question, it looks like the box would not get a full 12V. I don't know if it would operate properly on less than 12V. Also, in that diagram, the stock type coil would not get a full 12V during cranking either (like in a stock ignition). The one from Shrinkwrap appears correct to me. Did that first diagram come recommended from somewhere?

No I just saw it on mustangsteves - then i switched to the 2nd one both produced same results.
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-27-2007, 02:50 AM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
JackBurton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Redondo Beach CA
Posts: 237
Default

I downloaded a troubleshooting manual for the duraspark and I noticed some things that are different than our setups. Like others have mentioned if you use a duraspark can style coil it wants a resistor wire just like our mustangs but the module needs a 12v connection.

I'm looking at hooking up the module red wire at the ignition where the pink wire is now but keep the resistor wire connected. At the I terminal I'm going to keep the brown wire and white wire form the module connected. The brown and pink wire will connect and run out to the coil via the green/red wire. I've looked at all the wire and it seems to be in good shape.

Tomorrow I'm going to test the dizzy and module see what I'm come up with.

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...6e.jsp#hd1-1-6
__________________
[color:blue]"Have ya paid your dues, Jack?" "Yessir, the check is in the mail!"[/color]

'69 Sportroof 351w T5z 9" BlackJade -current state primer
JackBurton is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.