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Old 03-03-2007, 10:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hello fellow VMF'ers.
I got all the interior out of my 67 yesterday and found rust thru in the front left and right floor and pin holes just under the rear seat. I was thinking of installing one of the full floor pans.
Has anyone installed one of these, if so, how difficult was it. What was the quality and also the fit like?
Please, any and all comments appreciated.
Thanks John
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I did'nt do a full one piece floor pan but did do both one side at a time just so i really did'nt have to worry about the structual integrity when the car was apart.But have heard that the one piece is the way to go but someone who has done it will have to tell you the ins&outs of it.
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Old 03-03-2007, 01:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I had the same problem on my 65 coupe. The front and back pans were rusted as well as under the rear seats so I opted for the right and left individual floor pans and the individual rear pans. It was much cheaper this way.

The pans I got were from American Designer and fit really well. I cut off the sides of the floor pan about 1.5" up the bend and cut down under the seat belt mounting location. I used only whas was needed to repair the pinholes under the rear seats.

Everything was butt welded. Very minor hammering was needed to get one corner lined up.
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Old 03-03-2007, 02:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The one piece floors are the way to go. Installed a Dynacorn floor in my 66 vert. Stamping was excellent and fit was about 90%. I had to make a 10" long slice in the pan near the front trans tunnel to get the pan to fit perfectly. I have the same issue in the rear near the passenger driveshaft tunnel. Might have to make the same slice for that. After minor finish welding once I get it mounted on the rotisserie, the replacement should be undetectable.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I did a full pan in my 66 conv. I was really hesitate to do this, but I am glad I did.
There are 2 versions out there. The black painted version is foreign. The Unpainted version is american made. When I ordered mine, the only one I could get was the foreign one. The front fit really good. The rear seat area was bad. The tunnel area I had to reshape, it put it kindly. The biggest problem which I know I did wrong was the ends of the rear seat. With the one piece and with a conv. the end have to go underneath. Getting the pan under the driver and pass. frame rail was no big deal, but I could not for the life of me get the rear seat underneath to reach the rails. So I will have to patch this later. Hope this help.
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Where can you get the dynacorn full floor?
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Almost anybody selling full floors is selling the Dynacorn one.

I just did a patch on the front of a 68 coupe with an American Designer patch. It came with the car, and being a Dynacorn dealer myself, I was too cheap to buy a Dynacorn piece when I already had a patch on hand.

Suffice it to say I wasn't impressed. The American designer piece has the 90 degree lip against the rocker in the wrong direction (down versus up), and the hole for the drain plug that gets attached with 2 screws was not big enough for the original drain plug to back in. Even with a partial floor patch, I had to do quite a bit of hammering to make it fit.

I can't speak in comparison to the dynacorn part because I have not worked with that exact piece, but I have to say I was not impressed with the American Designer piece.

Also, when I was doing this repair, I noticed that the orignal floor pan, where it meets with the firewall and the lower tunnel brace, fits HORRIBLY. Again, this is original steel, and there is at least a 1/2 gap in places between the floor and the transmission tunnel brace on the bottom, and places where there are easily a 1/4 to 3/8" gaps between the floor and firewall/toeboard on the top.
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Of all the mustang parts places that sell the full floor pans, which one would mustang guys
suggest for the best quality.
Thanks Hacpro
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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After doing a bunch of research before I bought mine, I determined the best place to buy was Virginia Classic Mustang. Their price was the best and the shipping charges were better that everyone elses flat rate of $129. The Dynacorn pan is closer to the original thickness the original floors were. The American Designers pan is WAY heavier metal, and the stamping is not as crisp as the Dynacorn pan. Also, I believe all the access holes need to be cut in the AD pan. The Dynacorn pan already has all the holes punched out for you. One thing though-the Dynacorn pan is really a 65 style pan, as it has the provisions for the parking brake cables to pass over the rear frame rails. Once I have mine on the rotisserrie, I'll correct that so the underside looks correct for 66.
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks 66davesgt. We are currently in the cowl phase and will be hitting the floors soon.
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Old 03-04-2007, 03:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanx for clearing that up 66Davesgt.
Ill will be installing the full pan in my 65 so those provisions will work for me.
My side cowls were made by american designer and they took some effort getting them to fit properly.
My firewall is made by Dynacorn and the only complaint I have with the 65/66 firewall is why did they have to notch it for the convertible inner rockers.They could have just designed it for the coupe and fastback and let the convertible guys do their own notching.lol
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I installed a Dynacorn full floor in our '67 Convertible and for me the fit was darn near dead on! I trimmed out a slight piece on each rear corner to make it easier to go in and later I will weld this small piece back in. I needed to drill a few holes in the tranny hump to pull those in with bolts until welded. I thought the stampings looked great and the thickness seems good. I went about 2 hours to pick mine up so I didn't need to pay truck freight. But you could probably get the best deal from Matt at Ponderosa Mustang. You can click on the link in my signature to see some installation pictures and information.
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice pictures James! Man you're right, she's rusty! After my first Wisconsin car I gave up on Midwestern cars and started restoring southern cars. I have to hand it to you, you could give (or have given) Lemondrop a run for his money! Nice work!
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66DavesGT
Nice pictures James! Man you're right, she's rusty! After my first Wisconsin car I gave up on Midwestern cars and started restoring southern cars. I have to hand it to you, you could give (or have given) Lemondrop a run for his money! Nice work!
Try restoring a northeastern car, I have replaced the radiator support, both front inner fender panels, the complete cowl assembley, both toe boards, both long floor pans, & both seat risers. The trunk floor, d.s. rear torque box, & both rear frame extensions, & pass side rear quater panel are next on the sheet metal hit list. Good thing for my wallet I have done this all myself.
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Old 03-04-2007, 10:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66DavesGT
Nice pictures James! Man you're right, she's rusty! After my first Wisconsin car I gave up on Midwestern cars and started restoring southern cars. I have to hand it to you, you could give (or have given) Lemondrop a run for his money! Nice work!
Thanks for the kind words! I doubt anyone will beat or really want to beat Lemondrop. He does some amazing work and I look at his pictures often for encouragement and ideas.

It has been a long cold couple months and I am getting garage withdrawals. I do have heat out there, but I have to back out the coupe to work and I really don't like working that much without the door open so not much progress has been made lately. But I do have my door hinges rebuilt and soon I will hang the doors and start to work at welding new quarter skins on.

Midwest and Northeast cars really can be challenging. But they are also very rewarding to save. Like someone once told me, you would probably wanted to replace all those parts anyway, so it really doesn't matter how rusty they where!

I'm in no supper rush, so it's a bit like eating an elephant. One bite at a time!!


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