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Old 07-28-2007, 09:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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In my bundle of wires for my 1968 ignition switch plug, I see a small one that might be black, or a dark purple.. Is it supposed to be a ground? I turned it to 'on' (No battery in the car) and had no resistance between the pos terminal on the solenoid and the wire that goes to the coil, so it doesn't appear it needs a ground? Can't figure out what that wire would be though. It's th eone that doesn't seem to get shown in any diagrams?

http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamm...ng/1968/E7.jpg

Actually it does get shown in this one. On the RH side of the switch there are two wires that go to the same place but I can't make out what it's supposed to be? Thanks
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Old 07-29-2007, 02:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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bump bump
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It is wire 977A (violet) and goes between the master cylinder differential switch to the ignition switch.

When the differential switch detects a major imbalance in pressure between the two braking circuits, it closes. When closed, the switch grounds one side of the brake warning light which illuminates the light, and grounds one pin of the ignition switch for purposes that elude me.

Midlife? Can you tell us why this wire exists?

My aftermarket harness (painless) does not have such a wire.
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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wtf.. So it's the brake light wire.. BUt as you said, why does it go to ignition switch> It wouldn't need to go there to make a circuit.> It could go anywhere.. Basically I can ignore it.. And the other majorly basically thing is, don't use it as a ground, unless I want a small fire?
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Old 07-29-2007, 07:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would leave it open, or if you have a factory harness on a '68, can't you just hook it up like it was originally?

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Old 07-29-2007, 08:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No factory harness. Currently installing an Ez-wiring kit (which is about the same as a painless universal kit I believe). Seems i only have 4 wires going to the ignition.. The original ignition wiring had 5-6 wires coming out (That small purple or black thing that we speak of, and another big pink wire that said "DO NOT CUT OR SPLICE. RESISTOR" that from my calculations, went to the regulator. I don't have a regulator (Well, it will be internal) nor did my kit have something to hook up to that pink wire, so...? Who knows.. That pink wire came out of the same terminal as the wire that goes to the ignition coil. On the kit side, there was an extra brown wire that said "Ignition Wire Ignition" that as far as I can tell is only used on their GM wiring instructions. I don't know what GM has going on, but these ez-wiring kits are prewired for GM vehicles. There were two plugs to go the ignition switch (Whatever a GM plug looks like). The main one, and a secondary one that also had a main power feed (It was spliced off the other ignition plug) and that brown wire.. beats me? So now my ignition switch only has 4 wires going into it. Accessory, Coil, main power, and solenoid ignition. Not sure what to do with this violet or black one, and that missing pink one. But, even though I don't have the car ready to run, it still clicks the solenoid.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Cool, I understand what you're doing now. You can leave the violet wire unattached w/o ramification to the best of my knowledge. The Pink wire is the coil resistor wire, which dropped coil voltage to around 8V or so to preserve coil life. You "might" have to install a ballast resistor or the pink wire if you're running an original-style coil. Some coils run just fine on 12V, just check what kind you have.

Otherwise, it sounds like you're pretty close.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'll be running a 5.0 or an aftermarket coil for a 5.0, so I ASSUME they are good to run on 12v, but, not quite there yet. Having a hell of a time with these lights.. One, the turn signals don't work. I'd like to find a way to test the turn signal switch to eliminate that as a variable (Or find out the problem). Second of all, just when I thought I had everything else worked out, including the headlight relays (Which are proving to be the least of my worries), pull the headlight knob one click. All is good. parking lights come on. Touch my brake wires together (No pedal in there yet), it's good, brake lights come on. Pull the headlight switch knob all the way out for the headlights to turn on, and I get power to the headlights, but the tail lights go off.. wtf.. Now i'm confused. Wondering if they are somehow tied into the turn signal switch that I'd like to eliminate as a variable. Doubt I'll get everything with one shoddy connection though. That would be nice.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Make sure you've wired the taillights to the proper place. If they get wired to the parklight connection, they'll go off when you pull the switch out all the way.
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Taillights should go to pin "R", park lights to pin "P".
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Old 07-29-2007, 09:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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What lights do I want to stay on when I pull it all the way out. I want the taillights on, obviously, do I want the front lights on? Using those two prongs (P and R) doesn't one go out when I pull it all the way out. Should I just run the front parking lights AND the rear taillights to R, that way they all stay on, or? I just don't know what is supposed to stay on and go off. I think this ez-wiring diagram is flawed.
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Old 07-30-2007, 04:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Front parking lights go off when headlights go on. Side marker lights, if you have them, should stay on whenever the headlight switch is pulled into either position.
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