Help installing convertible inner rockers on a 65 Mustang Coupe

rusty105 · 05-27-2008, 08:12 PM

Help installing convertible inner rockers on a 65 Mustang Coupe.

Ok yes you read right, vert rockers in a coupe. As you can see by the pictures things don't seem to line up right if I line up the lower edge of the inner rocker with the lower edges of the existing outer rocker at the front and rear, as in pictures 1 and 3, I get what you see in picture 2. If I line up the rear, and middle, the front part of the inner rocker hangs down about 3/4" lower the the front extension of the outer rocker. I don't think the outer rocker is bent, or sagging. I used a string line to verify the lower seam is straight, however it vears upwards at the joint of front extension of the outer rocker. Is this normal? Any Ideas? Am I crazy for trying this?

Rusty

1

2

3

stangg · 05-27-2008, 08:36 PM

I also installed 'vert inner rockers on my coupe that I subsequently converted to a fasback... you are not crazy in my book...

Anyway, mine is pretty much even front to back. well within an 1/8". Are both sides the same?

Is the inner rocker paralell top to bottom? Also are the top and bottom flanges trimmed evenly? Just curious if the inner rockers were made right.

The passenger side one on mine is about a 1/4" wider than the driver side... no big deal, just different.

Lemondrop · 05-27-2008, 09:05 PM

Measure flange to flange on the replacement inner rocker and see if it's the same dimension from one side to the other. Not long ways but from top to bottom of the rocker. If it's tweaked open, you might be able to c-clamp the panel across the C section and compress it back to correct dimension.

rusty105 · 05-27-2008, 09:23 PM

I am not sure if the old inner rocker was parallel, it came out in twisted pieces.

I have attached a picture showing where the outer rocker starts to bend upward. however I do not think it is bent, but made this way. Can anyone confirm. Also does anyone have detailed pictures of this area. I have literally spent hours searching the net for pictures.

I checked the Passenger side, and it is not as drastic as this side. I am not taking that side apart until I have this side mostly back together, It is way too flexible already. Once I get the inner rocker attached it is going up on a cradle so the rest can be welded in square.

Lemondrop,
The outer rocker is about 3/8" narrower then the new inner rocker. The new rocker is 6" top to bottom.

stangg,

How did you line up the inner rocker, and rear torque box section from the coupe?

Thanks guys

Rusty

stangg · 05-27-2008, 10:09 PM

First off, on the coupe I kept the inner portion of the outer rocker in tact so I just added the inner rocker over the existing pieces. It sounds like you no longer have that piece which would help to keep the outer rocker skin stable. If the only piece there is the outer skin, then I would be tempted to think the outer skin is bowing. It sounds like you will need to tack the inner rocker to the areas that have some flex and then use a porta-power or jack to tweak the rail into position for tack welding. After you get it all tacked in double check you measurements for both sides before final welding. You might also want to test fit your doors prior to final welding.

Regarding the rear torque box, I can't help you there since I made a custom box to attach a bolt in rear subframe that the 4 link suspension attaches too. Doesn't the 'vert use a different rear torque box?

In case you don't already know, the coupe seatbases won't work, so you'll need the 1 piece 'vert seat base that has reliefs for the inner frame rail.

rusty105 · 05-28-2008, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangg

First off, on the coupe I kept the inner portion of the outer rocker in tact so I just added the inner rocker over the existing pieces. It sounds like you no longer have that piece which would help to keep the outer rocker skin stable. If the only piece there is the outer skin, then I would be tempted to think the outer skin is bowing. It sounds like you will need to tack the inner rocker to the areas that have some flex and then use a porta-power or jack to tweak the rail into position for tack welding. After you get it all tacked in double check you measurements for both sides before final welding. You might also want to test fit your doors prior to final welding.

Everything seems to line up, but I will check again. I don't think it is bowing, and it really didn't 'pop' as I seperated the old inner from the outer.

Quote:

Regarding the rear torque box, I can't help you there since I made a custom box to attach a bolt in rear subframe that the 4 link suspension attaches too. Doesn't the 'vert use a different rear torque box?

yep, from what I see the vert has a different rear frame rail, which I need to replace anyway. Like most projects, it is more then I thought it would take.

but I feel the benefits will be worth it.

Quote:

In case you don't already know, the coupe seatbases won't work, so you'll need the 1 piece 'vert seat base that has reliefs for the inner frame rail.

Yep, I have a plan for that, going make a custom interior brace/seat pan.

Thanks

Rusty

JSHarvey · 05-28-2008, 11:10 AM

My album on webshots might be of some help to you.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/303350032oGiLJL?start=0

John Harvey

rusty105 · 05-28-2008, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSHarvey

My album on webshots might be of some help to you.

http://rides.webshots.com/album/303350032oGiLJL?start=0

John Harvey

Thanks, some were helpfull.

Does anybody have a picture of the lower front door opening, same view as in my picture #2 in the first post? It seems like if I have the new inner parallel the outer from the rear, to the front door opening, the upper and lower seams will line up for the most part. EXCEPT it would put the front of the inner rocker about 1/2" to 5/8" lower where the Torque box connects. Which may screw up the body alignment. I could remove the front extension of the outer rocker, and re-weld, but I am not sure I have to be that drastic.

Rusty

Heap64 · 05-28-2008, 07:08 PM

I can't confirm 100% since I only have '67 convertible to look at. But the top flange of your outer rocker should be very straight across most of your car as well as the bottom and it should align with the bottom as well. On my car that front area does tend to creep up at the bottom. Some of the vendors are now selling the convertible inner and outer rockers already welded together. When I got mine I had three pieces to deal with the convertible inner, the main section of the outer and a small front outer section to match up. I would expect the '65 to be similar, especially since they say they are the same 65-68. It looks to me like you just need to drop the front a little to get everything across the door area to line up better. And for sure fit your door before going to far welding.

Sorry I don't have a good picture of the front right now.. I have my fenders and doors back on for now getting ready for fitting rear quarter skins finally. If you don't get what you need let me know. It wouldn't take much to pull them off.

rusty105 · 05-29-2008, 09:13 AM

Thanks for the info. I checked out some of your photos.

It looks like if I keep the inner rocker parallel to the outer, up until the A piliar, it should be ok. I need to see how the torque box will fit at that point.

Rusty

Heap64 · 05-29-2008, 08:54 PM

I've found the torque boxes go in much easier if you drill out the spot welds and install them in two pieces. Let us all see how it turns out.

rusty105 · 05-30-2008, 09:31 PM

Hmm, I already primed the torque boxes, but will cut apart if I have to. They are predicting strong T-Storms for Saturday, so I will have to wait until Sunday to get back at it.
Thanks for the tip!
Rusty

65Fastback434 · 01-19-2009, 05:07 PM

I had a similar problem. What I did was flush the inner rocker to the lower portion of the bottom, and there was a slight lip at the top, hopefully the door sill will be able to cover it. In the front, I let it drop down a bit. The pics will help...

I added the bead welds because some of my plugs didnt hold after i took the clamps off, it made a huge pop noise. So I got more clamps, clamped it down, and finished the plug welds then layed down a little bead welds...

Also I'm not sure if you cut your rear torque box like some do, but I did not, I cut the new inner rocker to match the contour of the rear torque box...

Claps help!! Get a lot...

Note, this is after i removed some, I had a good 16 clamps on this at one time...