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Old 04-12-2009, 11:04 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Removing bucket seats....

I'm removing the bucket seats from my coupe..Does the whole track come up, or just the seat?? Anything I need to knowWhat size socket do I need??Thanks, Lenny p.s. also removing the seat belt bolts, are there nuts behind those bolts?? What's the deal,Mc Neill
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:13 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: moving bucket seats....

Here's a good tip I learned so you do not lose the bolt into the body:

Insert a cardboard paper towel roll into the hole where you access the bolt (cut it down to a workable length). That way, you won't lose the bolt, especially when trying to bolt it back up.
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Removing bucket seats....

Half inch deepwell socket with a 4" extention. Remove the 4 rubber/plastic 1.5" circle plugs from underneath the car. Feel inside for the tip of the stud, Center your socket over it and remove nut. Repeat 4 times per seat. The entire seat with tracks can then be lifted up and out.

Seat belts have no nuts on the back. They are captive nuts welded to the floor pan.
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not to hijack, but I've been curious about this.. The holes for the seats (in the seat pans) are pretty large.. The track bolts, not so large.. Are there special washers that are used, or how does it work?
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Old 04-12-2009, 02:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The bolts themselves are special with a wide flange on them.
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Old 04-12-2009, 04:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well, I got the rubber caps out, of course my limited tools left me hanging. I do not have any deep wells, or even a 1/2 inch that will mate with any of my extensions. I knoccked lightly on the neighbors door, he must be snoozin'.BTW, I pulled a spark plug just to see..looks great, dry and clean,electrode in great shape,BUT the wire seperate from the metalfitting, had to fix that, took a little while, but I got it back togetherhad to split the plug cover a bit...OH WELL
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Old 06-02-2009, 11:30 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Removing bucket seats....

AAARRRRRGGGHHHH!!

So you are telling me you have to unbolt the whole track to remove the seat? You cannot just slide the seat one way or the other and unhook something inside the car? What a pain.

"Seat belts have no nuts on the back. They are captive nuts welded to the floor pan."

I think that would be true on a 66. Try telling my 65 that. A PO had installed some aftermarket belts. When I replaced them with some originals, the bolts were held on with nuts.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Remove the four nuts from under the car and the seat and track all come out in one motion. It's a very easy task. It's about a 10-15 minute job per seat.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have a problem..I can't find a 4 " deep socket....One thing I'm not clear on is the reference to 1/2 "..Are we talking about the nut size or the size of the part where the extension fatens in....Private e-mail me if you want .Philip42@cox.net..Former Bay Area
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olddustyrelics View Post
Half inch deepwell socket with a 4" extention. Remove the 4 rubber/plastic 1.5" circle plugs from underneath the car. Feel inside for the tip of the stud, Center your socket over it and remove nut. Repeat 4 times per seat. The entire seat with tracks can then be lifted up and out.

Seat belts have no nuts on the back. They are captive nuts welded to the floor pan.
I 2nd this to the T. Once the Seat and tracks are removed you can un-bolt the Track from the Seat Frame. The Nut Size is 1/2" underneath the Car. There are special Seat Track Mount Nuts that are used underneath the Car. They have a special Washer integrated with them.
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Old 07-31-2010, 10:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip42 View Post
I have a problem..I can't find a 4 " deep socket....One thing I'm not clear on is the reference to 1/2 "..Are we talking about the nut size or the size of the part where the extension fatens in....Private e-mail me if you want .Philip42@cox.net..Former Bay Area
A 1/2" deep well socket fits a 1/2" nut and is about 3" long. You need this because the nuts are on long studs and a regular short socket won't reach. You also need the approx. 4" extension on the socket because the deep well socket alone won't stick far enough out of the hole in the floor pan.

The suggestion to use a paper towel tube is a good one. If you lose a nut inside the seat pan you'll have a heck of a time trying to get it out, unless you have an early '64.5.

Frank
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Old 07-31-2010, 11:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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+2 on all the above - the seats really are that easy to take out - pop the 4 plugs, then a 1/2 inch deep socket on an extension.
What an AWESOME idea about the cardboard tube I have had such fun over the years feeling around the floor under the seatpan for those seat stud nuts over the years.....
It was easy when the floors were rusted right out, I could just reach in and get them - but after the floors were replaced - I wished I'd read that trick earlier!
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Just began to remove front seats today and got baffled. This thread is a lifesaver. Will try again this weekend.
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDude View Post
Here's a good tip I learned so you do not lose the bolt into the body:

Insert a cardboard paper towel roll into the hole where you access the bolt (cut it down to a workable length). That way, you won't lose the bolt, especially when trying to bolt it back up.
Awsome Tip !

When you remove seat belt bolts
Mark them with installing a punch, screwdriver, dollrod
something so you can find the bolt holes again.
I just left them in until ready to install again
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