ok, i am ready to install my driver side torque box. i got the m117 if that helps to know. i have a few questions before i finish the install, i also had to install the lower subframe rail patch and the front part of the floor support. i have them in the car and have them the way i want them. i looked at the fit of the torque box and noticed it fits a bit tight but seems like it should work well. if i try to go strait up with the box it hits the little lip in the floor support, do i have to take it up on an angle? go in from the front? or should i just notch that little lip and then weld a small piece back in so it looks normal when i am done? i really don't want to split the thing and from what i understand you should not have to on a coupe. also when i put the toe board in does it go under the floor or over it or should i just cut the over lap out and butt weld the two together like i will at the trans tunnel?
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current project.... 68 6cyl coupe 3spd w/o turn signal hood, next project... 68 6cyl coupe automatic w/turnsignal hood.
the lip of the toe board should be installed under the floor pan just like it is on the transmission tunnel. you would butt weld to the existing firewall (or flange and add filler).
i can't answer your first question (i purchased the separated or two piece torque box).
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1969 Mustang Mach 1 Candyapple Red
Dearborn, March 31, 1969
I also purchased the pre-welded torque boxes. I had the same problem you described and couldn't find any way to get them installed without separating them into two pieces. The top section had to go down over the frame rail and rocker panel to meet up with the bottom section below.
i was really hoping to not have to split this box since it seems like it will be a pain to put back together. i have a question for the passenger side, the front of my box and bottom of my box are fine the only parts rusted on the passenger side is the top of the box and of course the toe board and the very front of the floor board. is it possible to split a aftermarket box and put the top of it on the bottom and front of an original? or am i better off just removing the whole old box.
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current project.... 68 6cyl coupe 3spd w/o turn signal hood, next project... 68 6cyl coupe automatic w/turnsignal hood.
If you are completely sure that the bottom and front are structurally sound, you can most definitely just separate the pre-welded box. I believe it is only held together by spot welds. I bought the entire piece however.
If you decide to remove the entire thing, you'll understand how to put it back in as you remove it. After you remove the continuous weld in the wheel well, as well as the ALL of the spot welds, the box will still be in the car. You need to smash it out with a mallet. To get the torque box back in (bottom and front together, top goes on after), you also have to smash it into place with the mallet. Just keep hitting and it pretty much goes into place (or it did for me anyways!).
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If only the floorpans looked like this!
The Dynacorn heavy gauge torqueboxes come as 2 piece. that's what I put in my car.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed [color:blue]Link to my Hub Garage and blog[/color] Current car as of June 2009 Previous car in 1987
ok, i give up. i am buying the two piece torque box, where is the best place to get them. i tried all kinds of crap to make the one piece fit and it was one of the worst aftermarket parts i ever seen. so where did you guys buy your two piece torque box?
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current project.... 68 6cyl coupe 3spd w/o turn signal hood, next project... 68 6cyl coupe automatic w/turnsignal hood.
I bought mine from Laurel Mountain Mustang. They had the best price I could find on the Dynacorn heavy duty 2 piece torqueboxes.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed [color:blue]Link to my Hub Garage and blog[/color] Current car as of June 2009 Previous car in 1987
i just ordered mine from laurel mountain. i feel better now. i was still really mad over how crappy the american designer piece from cj pony parts fit.
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current project.... 68 6cyl coupe 3spd w/o turn signal hood, next project... 68 6cyl coupe automatic w/turnsignal hood.
My torque box install was one of the most frustrating projects on my car. I ended up drilling out spot welds to disassemble the torque box; then, welded it in pieces. It would have been MUCH easier if I purchased a 2 piece torque box.
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67 C code fastback ([color:blue]pics[/color])
Paint & Body done 1/27/09
351w
Global West a-arms
Maier springs
Koni shocks
Baer disc brake system
alum radiator w/dual electric fans
G-Force T5
31 spline 9" w/3:50 gears
Azenis RT 615 225/50/16 front & rear
i just ordered mine from laurel mountain. i feel better now. i was still really mad over how crappy the american designer piece from cj pony parts fit.
Good choice. That baby'll slide right in! Make sure you remember to paint the metal for the outer rocker that the torque box covers up! I forgot! I hope it doesn't bite me in the butt!
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If only the floorpans looked like this!
if it was your driver side torque box i would take some zero rust or something and spray it in the hole where the fuel line goes through and spray toward the rocker, at least would help some.
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current project.... 68 6cyl coupe 3spd w/o turn signal hood, next project... 68 6cyl coupe automatic w/turnsignal hood.
Good choice. That baby'll slide right in! Make sure you remember to paint the metal for the outer rocker that the torque box covers up! I forgot! I hope it doesn't bite me in the butt!
OH Crap......... Guess I will be hoping mine does ok too.....LOL
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