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Old 11-01-2009, 09:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to cap heater hose output on water pump?

I eliminated my heater, so I need to need to cap the heater hose output on the water pump. I am using both of the intake manifold water ports, one for the temperature gauge sending unit and one for the computer temperature sending unit, so I can't just reroute it into the intake.

So what is a good way to cap the heater hose output port?

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Old 11-01-2009, 10:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It looks like you are already running the short rubber cap?..The next best option is to remove the short peice of metal tubing and tap the water pump and install a plug...
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Maybe one of these will help? Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing

Then run a bypass hose
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frdnut View Post
It looks like you are already running the short rubber cap?..The next best option is to remove the short peice of metal tubing and tap the water pump and install a plug...
+1.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frdnut View Post
It looks like you are already running the short rubber cap?..The next best option is to remove the short peice of metal tubing and tap the water pump and install a plug...
I've used a cap for several years w/o any problems, I do replace it once a year though. I plan to drill & plug the water pump when I replace it.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frdnut View Post
It looks like you are already running the short rubber cap?..The next best option is to remove the short peice of metal tubing and tap the water pump and install a plug...
I had the rubber cap on, but it didn't last long. What's the best way to pull the hose nipple out of the water pump? - any tricks?
Also, any suggestions on how to tap the bypass with the waterpump installed?


Quote:
Originally Posted by brianstrange View Post
Maybe one of these will help? Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing

Then run a bypass hose

That piece looks interesting, but won't it taint my temperature readings? If this piece installs in the intake manifold and then the temp sending unit installs on top, then the sending unit will be out of the main flow and just read the water that is sent through the bypass. Will this give false readings until the car is at full operating temperature?

Thanks for the replys everyone.

Tim
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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A 9/16 freeze plug will fit in the hole if you remove the nipple
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haywired View Post
A 9/16 freeze plug will fit in the hole if you remove the nipple
Nice! That's the way I'll go, I don't have to remove the water pump to tap the threads.

Any tips on removing the hose nipple? Do I just grap it with some plyers and twist and pull at it?

Also, exactly how do you install a freeze plug? I've never done it. Do I just tap it in with a mallet until flush or do I need any specific tools? Does the freeze plug material matter? The water pump is aluminum.

Thanks, I love this place!

Tim
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JBA shorty's, 2.5" tubes, Dr Gas X-pipe
T-5 world class 5 speed, w/ .80 OD
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4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes
17" CL-205's, 225/45 & 255/40
TCP/Global West suspension
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subframe connectors, Panhard bar
TCP manual rack & pinion
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Put a socket inside the freeze plug and tap that
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:13 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you plug both ports, make sure you drill a small hole in your thermostat. You need to have some coolant flowing when the thermostat is closed, or you can/will experience "hot spots" while the thermostat is closed.
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Old 11-05-2009, 01:46 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine is kind of dodgy but has worked ok for a few years.

Short length of heater hose with an appropriate sized bolt hose clamped in place. Doesnt leak at all and does the job.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haywired View Post
A 9/16 freeze plug will fit in the hole if you remove the nipple
How do I remove the output nipple from the water pump!? Anyone??

I cannot get it to budge. Any tips appreciated.


Thanks,
Tim
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347 - Holley DP - 471 fwhp
JBA shorty's, 2.5" tubes, Dr Gas X-pipe
T-5 world class 5 speed, w/ .80 OD
9" with 3.70's & T-loc
4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes
17" CL-205's, 225/45 & 255/40
TCP/Global West suspension
OpenTracker roller spring perches
subframe connectors, Panhard bar
TCP manual rack & pinion
Power door/window locks w/ keyless entry
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Old 11-08-2009, 09:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, I finally got the heater hose output on the water pump plugged and per usual, not without the multiple trials and tribulations.

Originally, I capped the heater hose output with a rubber cap, held on by a hose clamp. This method didn't even get me out of the driveway.

Next up, I tried a rubber expansion plug. This gave way 15 miles out on my first shakeout drive.

So, then the post about using a freeze plug. But, I thought I could make it one step easier by placing the freeze plug in the output nipple, instead of pulling the nipple and placing it directly in the water pump body. I went to the auto parts store and left with a handfull of various sized freeze plugs. I tested them all, until I found the perfect fit, then started tapping it in using the socket method. Well...I didn't realize that the nipple had a lip on it. I started tapping the freeze plug into place. It was the perfect snug fit, until, all of the sudden the freeze plug and my socket disappeared inside of the water pump. I was able to retreive the socket with my magnetic wand, but I couldn't get the freeze plug back out....thus the panic about "how to remove the nipple on a water pump".

So, I pounded a screw drive through the output nipple and finally wrangled it out. A 3/4 freeze plug fit snugly into place.

Thanks,
Tim
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'65 2+2
347 - Holley DP - 471 fwhp
JBA shorty's, 2.5" tubes, Dr Gas X-pipe
T-5 world class 5 speed, w/ .80 OD
9" with 3.70's & T-loc
4 wheel Wilwood disc brakes
17" CL-205's, 225/45 & 255/40
TCP/Global West suspension
OpenTracker roller spring perches
subframe connectors, Panhard bar
TCP manual rack & pinion
Power door/window locks w/ keyless entry
Driven, not pampered

Last edited by Tims65; 11-08-2009 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 11:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Tim,

A 1/2" NPT tap will fit the stock hole perfectly. Load it up with grease to catch the cuttings and tap that hole.

Then put a 1/2 NPT plug in there.

If you want to ever go back to heater hose they make a 1/2"NPT threaded hose barb you can put in there to attach a hose to.
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