Shaun,
I have vintage Cragar GT 15x6 wheels. Do these brakes fit them?
The 15" is good but caliper to spoke clearance depends on the backside spoke profile. The caliper in this kit sticks past the wheel mounting flange of the rotor just a tad.
i have willwood 4 piston superlite calipers with coleman 12"x1.25" directional vane rotors with willwood aluminum hats on my 65. i had the brackets custom made
I love it, It looks hott!. I am the "restomod" kinda guy you mentioned, I'm going with 18" rims and 14" brakes, but I can still respect some quality craftmanship. If I was building a racer which required 15" wheels and what not, like a CVAR type thing, then I would defiantly be looking at your offering. Again it just looks amazing
__________________
-Marc '65 Mustang Fastback | 434W Stroker - (Twin Turbo, maybe? ) | Undergoing Body Work My 65 Mustang Build Site
Last edited by 65Fastback434; 11-18-2009 at 07:41 PM.
i have willwood 4 piston superlite calipers with coleman 12"x1.25" directional vane rotors with willwood aluminum hats on my 65. i had the brackets custom made
My buddy built a 12x1.25 system using the W6A caliper and it fits under 15" wheels. Cost a fortune though but it stops pretty good.
I love it, It looks hott!. I am the "restomod" kinda guy you mentioned, I'm going with 18" rims and 14" brakes, but I can still respect some quality craftmanship. If I was building a racer which required 15" wheels and what not, like a CVAR type thing, then I would defiantly be looking at your offering. Again it just looks amazing
Thanks! Those Baer 6P calipers are pretty nice too!
__________________ This is preeminently the time to speak the truth, the whole truth, frankly and boldly. Nor need we shrink from honestly facing conditions in our country today. This great Nation will endure as it has endured, will revive and will prosper. So, first of all, let me assert my firm belief that the only thing we have to fear is fear itself—nameless, unreasoning, unjustified terror which paralyzes needed efforts to convert retreat into advance.
The 15" is good but caliper to spoke clearance depends on the backside spoke profile. The caliper in this kit sticks past the wheel mounting flange of the rotor just a tad.
How could I check to see if this setup will work for me?
I love the looks of my wheels and I like the fact they are vintage.
How could I check to see if this setup will work for me?
I love the looks of my wheels and I like the fact they are vintage.
What I do is flip the wheel over so you are looking at the backside, lay a straight edge across the mounting pad to the rim. Measure down from the straight edge to the spoke in a few spots to get an idea of the backside spoke profile.
Let me know what you get and I'll go measure the kit to see how far the caliper sticks past the hat.
Sorry, this kit fits MUSTANGS, not Griswald family wagons...
Does that mean I'll have to shop your competition?
__________________ This is preeminently the time to speak the truth, the whole truth, frankly and boldly. Nor need we shrink from honestly facing conditions in our country today. This great Nation will endure as it has endured, will revive and will prosper. So, first of all, let me assert my firm belief that the only thing we have to fear is fear itself—nameless, unreasoning, unjustified terror which paralyzes needed efforts to convert retreat into advance.
I put one of those kits together last in 2007, for my wife's '68. ("It won't stop" had become
her constant gripe)
Having done a few B302 TA front kits before I could get most of it done fairly inexpensively.
The Mustang cast iron DISC hubs have become about impossible to find and the big Galaxie
calipers are also a challenge to get. Cobra Automotive now wants insane $'s for their
caliper brackets. Maeco Racing on the left coast sells the brackets for about half the
CA price. I used ARP hardware but could have cut a few more bucks there. This recent
project was around $1300. (Whomever got the Raybestos 6008 rotors off Ebay for cheap
did really well for themselves, the good guy price is a tad over $100 ea now)
Are the Maeco ones billet one piece? I thought I read somewhere they were 2 piece welded.
The 1 piece rotor is cheaper but I like the slightly larger 2 piece. Lighter with more thermal mass, slightly wider so it should cool better, slower conductive heat transfer into the hub etc...
It overpowers the Kuhmo Ecsta's (225x50x16) in front, even with organic pads. I had to
dial in a bunch more rear brake. Come replacement time, stickier tires will be used.
Pretty impressive deceleration though (brakes for a 4000# sedan tend to stop a 2800#
Mustang really well).
Although Mike offered to make me some out of billet, I had a tighter schedule - most of
Maeco's brackets are done on an endmill, a lathe and are tig welded. I have a pair from
Speed Parts International (when they offered them in the 90's) on my race car that were
actually patterned off Follmer's car and CNC'd. They were $540 for the pair.
The Maeco ones are almost as nice looking and nowhere near as expensive.
The two-piece hub and rotor is the way to go. Thermally, it is far superior to a 1-piece
cast iron rotor for the reasons you state.
It overpowers the Kuhmo Ecsta's (225x50x16) in front, even with organic pads. I had to
dial in a bunch more rear brake. Come replacement time, stickier tires will be used.
Pretty impressive deceleration though (brakes for a 4000# sedan tend to stop a 2800#
Mustang really well).
Although Mike offered to make me some out of billet, I had a tighter schedule - most of
Maeco's brackets are done on an endmill, a lathe and are tig welded. I have a pair from
Speed Parts International (when they offered them in the 90's) on my race car that were
actually patterned off Follmer's car and CNC'd. They were $540 for the pair.
The Maeco ones are almost as nice looking and nowhere near as expensive.
The two-piece hub and rotor is the way to go. Thermally, it is far superior to a 1-piece
cast iron rotor for the reasons you state.
What bore M/C are you using? We've had good results with 1" and no booster.
$540? Ouch! I have first hand experience with one off machining projects. Everything we make starts off with one off prototypes for testing and it sure can get expensive & time consuming. We are doing so much volume CNC work lately though that its cheaper and quicker to make the brackets billet than it is to make multiple pieces and weld them together. We should have stock of them early December.
Along with this kit I've also designed an aluminum hub for even more weight savings. Made from 7075 and hard anodized it weighs just 2.85lbs without races/studs. It is dimensionally the same as a drum hub in all the right areas so it'll work with this, or any of our other kits that use a seperate rotor/hub. I'll be testing them on my car next year. This should drop a few more pounds of unsprung weight.
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