i did it in the early 80's flying out to vegas to get a 59 ford, took interstate 10 back and the motor blew in arizona, got a new one in it and was fine all the way back, wasnt my car i was just along for imoral support and had a good time
edit: i see in the first post your leaving friday.... the 13th?
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65 stang, 289, c4, 3:25 locker, dual exhaust, vintage wheels, all new interior
Last edited by 6t5mustang; 11-11-2009 at 08:07 AM.
You're completely right about finding the backroads and I just might if I'm feeling confident. I guess my thought process is that I'm more likely to be inline with local resources on I-40, should there be any mishaps along the way. In college I lived close to Rt 66 in Oklahoma (went to OK State) so I remember those state roads. I'm not sure I wanna be in Nowheresville, AK when the water pump gives up the ghost, ya know. But if the car is running strong, I'd sure like to get off the Interstate!
I know that area well, I grew up in Bartlesville OK & my brother went to OSU.
Actually the "service" is better off the interstate. On the interstate you can go for miles and miles out west w/o any services. Off the interstate, most every small town will have a decent auto parts store (NAPA), and often a good repair shop.
add to your parts list a set of radiator hoses.
I bet you can get the phone numbers of VMF members that live along the route if you ask for them via PM. You would have a "support crew" along the way.
Z. Ray
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'66 GT-350
original drivetrain, sheet-metal, interior, & paint
Also, if doesn't already, add seat belts etc. Dual bowl master cylinder would be a must for me. I just added one to my 65 last week.
What master cylinder did you use? With such short notice being that I'm flying there on Friday, I might be stuck with finding one through Napa, Autozone etc. With just a quick search, I can only see single bowl masters available with those guys. Where did you get yours? What application was it for? Any potential problems with proportioning valve, new steel line installation, etc?
Man, I think that is great.I could come up with a huge list of stuff to check and bring on the trip.I do think the AAA Is a great idea,I would also be sure to bring a fire exstinguisher about 5 gallons of water. As far as parts to change or spares to bring I could come up with an endless list .I didn't see any mention of changing the fuel or water pumps? They probably didn't appreciate the long nap.
When you go to do the brakes definately clean and repack the front bearings.Personally I probably wouldn't mess with the rears,you do have a limited amount of prep time.I'd road test the car and if the rears sounds quiet I wouldn't play around.I've seen where axle bearings sat for really long periods and they held up fine,I've also seen where people had one that was going bad and they still put a few thousand miles on it. As far as rears and sitting the worst things I have seen go bad (especially lately) has been Pinion Pocket bearings and gears,When Rears sit all the fluid sits in the bottom of the rear and the exposed/uncovered gear teeth and assorted parts get surface rust/pits.Like I said I'd do the brakes,make sure the fluid in the rear is full and then go for a shake down road test.
What master cylinder did you use? With such short notice being that I'm flying there on Friday, I might be stuck with finding one through Napa, Autozone etc. With just a quick search, I can only see single bowl masters available with those guys. Where did you get yours? What application was it for? Any potential problems with proportioning valve, new steel line installation, etc?
Ted
Cobra Automotive has a nice dual bowl set up for sale. It is available with all the lines needed pre-bent to fit your existing prop valve. I bought it from them & it installed perfectly.
Cobra Automotive has a nice dual bowl set up for sale. It is available with all the lines needed pre-bent to fit your existing prop valve. I bought it from them & it installed perfectly.
photo shows lines with new type prop valve, but they have the lines for the original prop valve set-up as well, which is what I used.
(You might need an adjustable m/c rod as well if yours isn't adjustable)
Z. Ray
That looks like a great setup! My next question would be, is that an equally good choice as a MC for a Granada disc swap? I have all the Granada parts to perform the swap back here in Atlanta. I'd hate to swap to a nice dual MC setup, just to have to change it again when I convert to discs in a few months.
I'm not an expert on rear discs set-ups, but I think you have to have a master cylinder that is made for disc/disc not disc/drum. Your best bet would be to call them (Cobra Automotive) and ask.
Z. Ray
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'66 GT-350
original drivetrain, sheet-metal, interior, & paint
You mention cleaning the fuel lines and the tank, didnt see mention of the fuel sending unit. May want to have a spare with you when you pull everything apart. Good Luck!
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-Rick
IF YOU DON'T STAND BEHIND OUR TROOPS,
PLEASE, FEEL FREE TO STAND IN FRONT OF THEM
To convert to dual bowl, you buy a 67 manual drum master cylinder (or power, be careful, there can be clearance issues with power) from NAPA. I strongly recommend theirs as it is Made in the USA. Support the people IN this country who buy whatever it is you do for a living. (rant complete ) Mine was $75 or so.
You can fab your own lines, but CJ Pony part sells a dual bowl conversion line kit. (They also sell a complete kit for around $65 that has a re-manufactured dual master cylinder. Might be good for you if you are going disc right away as you CANNOT reuse a drum master cylinder with your new discs). Their kit is around $16. You could have it shipped to Reno if you needed to. Order by phone to make sure it is in stock. The kit is not perfect, but the little bending you need to do to make it work is doable for a novice. You sound like you know much more than I do, so I am sure you can handle it.
Make sure you own a brake line wrench set. vamustang, a user here, made me buy one before I tried this. Couldn't have done this without them. (Around $22 at NAPA).
Quick process: Remove old master cylinder (save rod, to reuse with new master cyl), bench bleed new one (kit included at NAPA), remove hard line from dist block. Use brass plug (from CJ kit) to block off that port. Use female to female adapter to connect your rear brakes directly to the FRONT bowl on the master cyl. Then connect rear bowl to your front brakes through the dist block, as normal.
NOTE: I was under the impression that you needed to take the push rod out of the car WITH the old master, and then use it with the new master. It was a BITCH to try to get the old rod disconnected from the pedal. I actually gave up. I just pushed the new master right onto it, and have had no problems. Not sure if this is the right way to do it.
Test fit how a wrench can reach the connections before you install the new master cylinder. It is TIGHT to get a wrench in there.
Keep the fluid off your paint. Take your time, it is frustrating and dirty to do this job. You will hate your hood after bending under it for a while. Don't over tighten things or cross thread things, as brass is very soft at these connections.
Nice to have as you now have three layers of braking: front, rear, and emergency.
FYI: Having never done ANY brake work before, and with bleeding the brakes, it took me the better part of a day to do this. (two hour delay while I tried and failed to disconnect the push rod frmo the brake pedal included). I had to troubleshoot a couple leaks too. I also changed the front rubber lines while I was at it.
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Make sure you bring a good flashlight for roadside break downs and also a good work light to light while you are working on the car. (if your family doesn't have one in REno)
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'65 San Jose, C-Code, long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, 4-spd Toploader, Four-Barrel Edelbrock 500cfm, Ivy Green(!),
Black Std. Interior, Hurst Super Shifter w/lockout, Performer 289 intake, Scott Drake Styled Steels - 15x7
Last edited by lunarweasel; 11-11-2009 at 03:26 PM.
One more thing, you may want to paint the master cylinder if you decide to keep it on their for any length of time. They rust and look crappy pretty quickly.
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'65 San Jose, C-Code, long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, 4-spd Toploader, Four-Barrel Edelbrock 500cfm, Ivy Green(!),
Black Std. Interior, Hurst Super Shifter w/lockout, Performer 289 intake, Scott Drake Styled Steels - 15x7
10 years is a long time. I would check brake lines, brake hoses and wheel cylinders, and don't forget freeze plugs.
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If I'm asking a questsion about my car, it's a '67 Coupe, 289 2bbl, C4, P/S, manual brakes, no A/C. I'm restoring it so I can SELL IT!
Well, that's what I'm unsure about. I've never replaced rear bearings in anything. I wasn't even sure there were bearings at the flanges on the rear axle. Logic says there should be, but somehow rear bearings have flown under the radar for me all these years. How difficult are they to replace? It's still got the factory rear end.
Ted
Remove the 4 bolts that hold the axles in, and yank them out. You should buy the bearings ahead of time. Then, take everything to a local garage and ask them to press the old bearings off and the new bearings on. The bearings are not very expensive and pressing them off and on should not be more than $30 to $50. Remember to also buy the oil seals and replace them while the axels are out. Be careful when you slide the axle back in not to damge the seal.
Over the years I've locked up one rear bearing and one front bearing...not fun to repair.
Dave
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68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
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Dual bowl master cylinder would be a must for me. I just added one to my 65 last week.
