My father and I rebuilt this car over 12 yrs ago and I drove it everyday till I lost the brakes, parked it and it sat when I joined the army for the past 8 yrs
I have a 1965 mustang coupe
200 ci inline 6
C4 trans
drum brakes
all stock
what she used to look like
I have some plans for it
first thing is go buy a new jack since the one i have wont lift it high enough to put a stand under here and I will be able to replace the worn tire and be able to push her around
this build isnt commencing till i get back from Iraq. probably be collecting parts more than anything. I plan on doing a inline6 to v8 swap.. SBF just not sure if i want to go a punchy stroked 289 or go with a stoked 351w. I am also looking at a 5spd swap.so i will be asking a lot of questions im sure of it
im looking at the granada swap from ultrastang or even go with the sn96 calipers and rotors.. and add the same treatment to the rear end when I choose one
Fordrule, I have a granada swap with new take off 01 mustang dual piston calipers for sale, New rotors, just need some mounting hardware and wheel bearings. Spindles are powdercoated, and have new tie rods for it also.
Not a bad ride...Looks like she needs a little work.... That paint looks like it might buff out possibly. Your Valve cover and air cleaner and fuel filter are the wrong color.. They should be Ford Red for 1965. 1966 was blue (Ford Corporate Blue to be exact.)
Brakes are easy...Especially Ford Brakes. You can get all the parts at RockAuto Auto Parts or NPD... I suggest switching to a later '67 and dual master cylinder. You'll need to fabricate new front brake lines which are sold everywhere, and get yourself a post '67 Classic "H" brake ditribution block/metering valve and you'll be all set. Use a 1968 Ford shop manual to plumb up the whole system and you'll be set. I've done the conversion 6 times and it works great.. You can do the whole Dual conversion for under $100.. Providing you don't need any new brake lines or new wheel cylinders. All you do is leave your rear lines alone, and plumb them into the new "H" valve, Bench bleed the master, and then re-bleed the entire system.. Done. Also, Do not re-use the '65-'66 metering valve. You CANNOT use it in the conversion. If you do, You negate the whole idea of separating the two brake systems.. I always laugh when I see people bolt in a dual master, and then re-use the '65-'66 metering valve.. They obviously have no idea that they are defeating the use of a "Dual Braking system" by doing this.
this build isnt commencing till i get back from Iraq. probably be collecting parts more than anything.
I plan on doing a inline6 to v8 swap..SBF just not sure if i want to go a punchy stroked 289 or go with a stoked 351w.
I am also looking at a 5spd swap.so i will be asking a lot of questions im sure of it
1) Thank you for your service!
2) I like the idea of a stroked 289 or 302. 400+ HP is good enough for me, and it keeps the weight down for good handling.
3) If you plan to go to a 17 in wheel, I wouldn't do granada swaps etc. There are kits that are good to go that are 13" etc, and aren't pieced together. My opinion only!
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'65 San Jose, C-Code, long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, 4-spd Toploader, Four-Barrel Edelbrock 500cfm, Ivy Green(!),
Black Std. Interior, Hurst Super Shifter w/lockout, Performer 289 intake, Scott Drake Styled Steels - 15x7
Hey, found your post. It was great to meet you the other day. I'm curious what the reason for not using 17" wheels with Granada spindles too, as you saw my car has the Granada swap and works pretty good.
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My wife's name is TARA so I am the TARA-fied 1!
67 Hardtop, 429 Big block, 9" rear, 4 wheel disc brakes... cardomain link to my project 67
Other than for cheapness, I would buy a modern system designed to work with your car, and not a rigged one from a 70s car. That was my only reason. I understand if extreme budget is running the show, but there are REALLY good new brake systems with 13" rotors for around $1200. Some of the Baer systems are really incredible. A lot of them maintain your track width, so you can use existing wheel charts to help find proper backspacing etc without having to buy wheels and guess and check down the road.
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'65 San Jose, C-Code, long tube headers, 2.25" exhaust, 4-spd Toploader, Four-Barrel Edelbrock 500cfm, Ivy Green(!),
Black Std. Interior, Hurst Super Shifter w/lockout, Performer 289 intake, Scott Drake Styled Steels - 15x7
Last edited by lunarweasel; 11-21-2009 at 09:37 PM.
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