How do i get the heater core out of my 67 mustang?
I can't get the heater casing out of the car!
I removed the 2 heater hoses, and then one screw that holds the top of the casing to the dash.
I also removed the Glove Box.
I still need to disconnect the A/C piping,
But what else? Does anyone have pictures. I'm tempted to dump the old anti-freeze back in, run the hoses from intake to outtake and bypass the whole heating system and paying someone to do this.
I've spent 5 1/2 hours trying to figure this out and 3 trips to the local car parts store.
I just did this same job on my 65. You should be pretty close, there might be one other bolt holding the case in toward the center of the dash, but that should be all. Make sure you've got all the ducting and vent tubes removed. Then you have to remove the 4 nuts around the heater motor inside the engine compartment. Its on the passenger side firewall just below and to the right of the passenger hood hinge. The housing should be able to be removed at this point.
If 67 is the same as 65, which I think it is, there are s bunch of clips holding the two halves of the casing together. You'll have to pop all of those off and then you'll have access to the heater core for replacement.
Start to finish should be about a 90 minute job. Don't pay anybody to fix this, you can do it!
Good idea while you have it apart is a new foam kit to re-seal all the little doorways in the heater chamber.
Cheap to get and this is the ONLY time you'll have a chance to get at it.
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67 Fastback GT -- original colour (Frost Turquoise), orig engine, .. . 1st pic is the car as it now is. Stock except for Opentracker roller perches and idler arm, roller bearing pedal cluster, Cibie lights, radials, that sort of thing..
2nd pic is of me and the same Mustang - May '67, with original F70-14 Wide Ovals.
You can't compare a 65 with a 67. The 67 has it integrated into the box and the 65 does not.
The AC has to be disconnected as do all the vacuum lines and the one cable. LABEL THE VACUUM LINES before you disconnect them. You are going to have to manuver the box around to get it out.
If you can live without the heater I would bypass it.
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John Bednorz
1967 Shelby GT350, dark green, 347 stroker, 5-speed, inboards, #2206
1973 Mustang Convertible, white/white, black stripes, Q-code (351C-4V), ram air.
1968 1/2 428 CJ convertible, R-code, red/deluxe red, auto, finally finished.
"If you find the car of your dreams, ignore the price guides and pay whatever you have to in order to get it."
68R CodeConv is exactly right. It's pretty close to the same as a 65 IF you don't have A/C. If you have a 67-8 with A/C, changing the heater core becomes a whole new ball game and is much more involved than non A/C cars.
There are TWO screws @ the topside of the Htr/AC box. One outboard, one inboard. The box is a slip joint into the blower housing, secured with 'button' fasteners that must come out also. After disconnecting A/C lines, heater hoses, vacuum lines, cable, it's still a PITA to maneuver it out. While it's out, go through the whole unit- heater core (leak test it before you install it- sometimes new ones leak), evaporator, vacuum valves. Putting it back in is even more fun
Neil Hoppe
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1968's: Best of the Best:
1968 GT/CS J Code
I have given up. I keep running into more and more problems. I spent 6 hours working on trying to get the heater casing out. I had to run to the store 3 times to get different tools. Looks like I'm taking this to the professionals.
I think it is best if i stick with detail work and body work.
I have given up. I keep running into more and more problems. I spent 6 hours working on trying to get the heater casing out. I had to run to the store 3 times to get different tools. Looks like I'm taking this to the professionals.
I think it is best if i stick with detail work and body work.
The only tools required are simple wrenches and screwdrivers. If you don't have the Factory Service Manual you have been wasting your time. The whole job should take under 6 hours.
The only tools required are simple wrenches and screwdrivers. If you don't have the Factory Service Manual you have been wasting your time. The whole job should take under 6 hours.
It was just a bunch of little stuff, but no where open had a manual i already checked. Oh well I'm grumpy about it now, i know it should have been an easy job...
Welcome to the Wonderful World of owning a classic car! One of the cool things about owning these cars, is you can do almost all the work yourself. You have to enter into the project with the right attitude, and knowledge. I learn everything from formums, how-to articles in magazines like Mustang Monthly, and just talking to people who have been there- done that. My best resource is my local Mustang club. Find one in your area and get involved. I've gotten so frustrated on things that should have been easy. sometimes you have to walk away, get on the computer and find some helpful hints, then get back to it the next day when your knuckles aren't bleeding and you are thinking more clearly.
Definately order the Factory Service Manual. It will be used often.
It was just a bunch of little stuff, but no where open had a manual i already checked. Oh well I'm grumpy about it now, i know it should have been an easy job...
Unless you live near a Mustang dealer like I do (Glazier Nolan) you won't be able to just walk in off the street and buy this book. If you get on the phone now, you'll have it before the weekend and you'll be all set.
Please don't take this wrong. Not blasting you. In fact maybe this doesn't apply to you
Have you worked on, taken wrenches to a recent auto, like zero to twenty
years old? A vintage Mustang, Camero or other vintage car of the 60's is like working on a Model A by comparison!
For years I've read about how impossible it is to diagnose/fix a vintage Mustang. Hey people try a vintage Infinite, Mercedes etc. in 20 years.
Sorry I blew up but...over and over I read "don't want to invest on a (shop) manual".
So...there goes Slim again!
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My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
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How do i get the heater core out of my 67 mustang?
