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Old 03-18-2010, 08:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemstang66 View Post
how about a pic ?
some pics.
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Old 03-18-2010, 02:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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nice looking mustang , the tire /wheel size looks good . i would check the springs /shocks for condition . they could just be weak and allowing to much travel
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Old 03-18-2010, 03:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You cannot tell from the pic they would rub but he says they do so ride height (Shock or springs) is not the answer, proper backspacing is the fix so no matter how big a pot hole you hit or hill go over at speed it will be inside the wheel well and no rub. More rim backpacing is the answer. They look like torque thrusts so they do make the correct backspacing for these rims to fit. I have seen a 68 fitting 275's with 6 inch backspacing no problem
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:14 PM   #19 (permalink)
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agree! Tires should clear throughout suspension travel. The rubber snubber/;bumpers and front turning stops limit wheel travel not shock stiffness.
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:06 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I'm actually going through the exact same process. I just put on 17" wheels on my 67 fastback. They are Torq Thrust II wheels 17X9.5 with 5.75 backspacing. I have Goodyear F1 275/40ZR. The wheels are a custom size so they cannot be returned. They rub my the fender lips. I cannot roll the fenders because I just had the car painted and because of the way I welder the outer wheelwells to the fender.

Here's what I'm doing. I place white tabe on the wheel well opening and drive the car over some pretty good sized bumps. The tape tells me where the tires are hitting the fender lip. I grind (using a flapper disk) down the fender lip a little at a time making sure I don't generate too much heat in the process. I then go for another drice and start the process again. I think I will eventually eliminate the rubbing completely using this process. When I have the lips cut down enough I will POR 15 and seam seal any openings. It ain't pretty but it's working.
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:24 PM   #21 (permalink)
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i talked to a guy at another speed shop and he asked me where it was rubbing and it seems to be rubbing only on the drivers side when i'm alone driving and it rubs in the front part of the fenders about 1/4 way when starting from the bottom front of the rear fender while following the fender molding going towards the rear. and the guy tells me it's maybe the differential that's not straight since he says the wheels should be maybe a little more centered in the fender opening from front to rear of the fender. tells me it happens since the differentials are only clamped at both sides by clamps on the leafs springs so it easy for someone to instal it krooked. it's worth looking into cause i see 67-67's with wider tires and closer to the fenders than my 68. i'll take some measurments and see.
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:28 PM   #22 (permalink)
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GTA6T7, can you post some pics. I am currently deciding on Torque Thrusts but not sure about 275's or being safe with 255 tires. I have a 65/66 sized rear end from Currie ie 1 inch narrower on each side so if I went with 275's I would think a 5 inch backspace would work but I will be measuring first. With the narrower rear end I should have better looking deeper dish wheel since I won't need as much backspace
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:09 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I had trouble loading pictures. You might want to look at Blady Garcia's 68 fastback on the streetortrack website at http://www.streetortrack.com/Customer-Cars-p-3.html . I used his car as the prototype for mine. I also bought my wheels from Streetortrack. Excellent service and advice!
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Old 03-18-2010, 11:50 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Tongue tires rubbing

Liv, I would agree with our guys who said the backspacing on your wheels is not enough. I have 275s on the back of my car and have zero trouble. But I do remember that the chrome strips that are lining the fenders are frequently wider then the fender lips.....one of my other cars had them and I believe the chrome went in towards the tires another half an inch or so beyound the fender lip itself. The cheap and easy fix would be to remove the chrome and go for a ride. If that fixes the problem, you know that you only have to bend the chrome trim, and the fenders themselves are okay. LSG
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Old 03-19-2010, 02:52 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Just a little advice since Ive had this problem for years and as a result now have cracked paint in the areas and a cracked front bumper. Don't drive around for long otherwise you'll regret it later.
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Old 03-19-2010, 06:23 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Had the same problem on my Mach. I cured it by spending a couple extra dollars and got some very nice standard ride height shocks with overload springs. The older stangs ride is extremely spongy to begin with . So when I put the spring overload shocks on she rides really nice now. She is way better in the respect she doesn't dip in the corners as much and when I hit a bump at 60mph or higher she doesn't rub what so ever. The ride height moved the body abot 1/2" higher overall. Monroe is the maker of the standard ride height shock. Just call Red Rooster or NAPA. They can help you. I think it cost $90-$100 to fix that problem. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You really don't want to put Spring (air/coilover) Shocks on your stang. Shock mounts are only designed to handle the stress of damping the springs... NOT support the weight of your car. Many here have had to repair the upper shock mounts on the rear of their Mustangs (very not fun) because the shocks have broken through or the mounts have cracked either from air/coilover shocks that were installed on their cars or just normal wear and tear/age... Is this really a place you want to add more stress than was originally designed for?

Not intended as a flame, just some info you may not have...
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