I've got a build thread over at another site that I frequent, but wanted to start keeping my progress here as alot more of you guys can point out my mistakes lol. My current build thread for those interested http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/mak...-fastback.html
Anyhow... I'll keep my progress here.
Got out today and got the floor support removed and the new mocked in place. I had planned to keep the shock tower and rear apron in place to replace the frame rail. Well, the problem is that the P/O welded up the inner floor of the shock tower and I can't get to the spot welds. I plan to replace the shock tower anyhow, but I did want it in place to line things up. But, not gonna happen.
I'm afraid that I'm gonna get things out of line as I'm really just working from the floor support and gauging measurements off it at the moment. The shock and apron assembly are real flimsy as the only thing supporting it are the spot welds to the firewall. I guess I'll just have to pay close attention to lining things up before burning everything in place. I plan to cleco the frame in place and hang the radiator support and then hang the fenders to make sure everything lines up. Anything I should watch out for or pointers that will insure proper fitment?
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
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Fabion
1967 coupe I6,Dui dizzy,front disc,first car. 08/17/07-06/27/09 =(
1970 Fastback 5.0 efi hydr clutch.to be my DD. 8-9-10
05 focus zx4 se current dd
If you can afford a new car you can afford a classic car.
I don't have a lot of experiance but in my 66 the rad support does a nice job of loacting the front of the front fender aprons. The holes for bolting things up are large enough to leave room for error. As for the fender aprons, if the are in the correct place now, why not make a jig that bolts to the firewall. Wouldn't an export brace do that well enough?
not sure just thinking
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17" MB Old School wheels from discount tire (a lot of people ask)
Kinda scared to proceed from here. Nothing is welded or even tacked in place. Everything is level, but there is still a certain amount of apprehension as getting this correct is vital. I've measured from a few points and everything is fairly square... a few adjustments aside.
Problem is... the passenger side is the constant right now and I need to replace everything there also. That will wait. I'm thinking to cleco everything together and measure for square after all tweeks. I'm finding very little points to measure to though. I originally thought that I would use the fender holes on the radiator support and the fender holes on the rear aprons, but that won't work because of the flex of the upper area of the unsupported radiator support.
I'm stuck, right now, and proceeding very cautiously. I needed to step back away from it and study how to make it correct.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
I'd say u going about it the right way. Do you have the shop manual? Its got all the frame measurements in it that may be able to help you out a bit. What I did to help line things up was take measurements of distance between the rails at various spots front to back before i took the frame rail out. After cut out took measurements using a tram gauge from the rear frame rails and other spots to the different mounting holes on the frame rail. Also took a square and squared up the holes that are directly across from each other under the shock towers.
Hung a few more panels... just clecoed or vice-gripped in place. I'm thinking that if everything lines up and sits where it's suppose to... how far out of alignment can it be. It looks like everything is sitting pretty square.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
I'd say u going about it the right way. Do you have the shop manual? Its got all the frame measurements in it that may be able to help you out a bit. What I did to help line things up was take measurements of distance between the rails at various spots front to back before i took the frame rail out. After cut out took measurements using a tram gauge from the rear frame rails and other spots to the different mounting holes on the frame rail. Also took a square and squared up the holes that are directly across from each other under the shock towers.
I don't have a shop manual but I do have a scanned copy of the frame measurements.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
Sitting here studying these pics, I'm thinking that I'm gonna go ahead and pull the drivers rear apron and hang the new. My thinking is base everything off it as the firewall hasn't moved and keeping pushing forward with the new panels. Kinda like how you do when lining up outer panels... such as doors and fenders. Normally you base your door gaps off the qtr which hasn't changed and line the doors off it, then line the fenders off the door. Same principal here, basing off the firewall and moving forward. This should keep everything in check. I don't plan to have a panel one attached other than with cleco's so that I can adjust as needed. Sound good? As I'm just trying to wrap my head around this.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
Sorry for the double and triple posts as I'm just getting my thoughts down and rambling lol, using you guys as a sounding board so to speak. I'm going to use this chart as the measurements from a 70 should be the same as my 67. http://www.boss302.com/frame.jpg
Hopefully that chart will be good guide to find. I'm thinking of tying some nuts to fishing line and attaching them as plum bobs to the areas that the chart mentions and getting my measurements correct. I still have the passengers frame in tack and it has not been touched by my hand yet. I think that I should be able to get everything square using it.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
Had the day off today to cover the weekend. Spent the day in the garage... not really accomplishing anything. I did get the two piece frame rail mated together and the motor crossmember nut welded in place. I had to pull everything apart to accomplish this. What time I had it apart I decided to set the torque box in place. I figured the more I had in place the easier it would be to make sure everything is correct and in place right.
Here with everything in place I measured the distance between the frame rails. It is sitting at 27 1/2 inches between frame rails front, rear, or anywhere you measure on the frame side to side.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
Thanks man. It will probably be a few days before I get back out. I need to get my final measurements and and cleco it in. I'll hang the fenders and hood, then see how it all fits. If it's good then burn it in.
Bill
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Living the dream or running it down... haven't figured out which yet.
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