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Old 04-09-2010, 08:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Custom Motor Mount Build

I've always like the Ron Morris motor mounts and everyone else seems to as well, but I just didn't want to fork out $225 for about $20 in steel and $20 in bushings. I also am not a fan of the urethane bushings used, so my design will utilize stock rubber bushings made for the rear shackles of our cars. If I find that the rubber wears too quickly or the bolt pushed through the rubber, I can always buy the urethane shackle bushings to replace these rubber ones. This may get a little wordy, but better to have too much info than not enough.

Initially I wanted to mimic the Ron Morris design but I wasn't a fan of the motor mounts being of 3 sections: the top plate, the intermediate section consisting of a top plate/angled plate/bushing housing, and the shock tower brackets. Too many sources of bolt slip. I wanted to combine the top plate and bushing housing into one, similar to the TCP mounts but I didn't want to lose the option of sliding the engine back (which is the reason for these mounts). I decided to try to make the top plate have long slotted holes and make the front to back motor adjustments through those two bolts that go into the engine. The oil filter is in the way up front on the drivers side and there is a drain plug in the way on the front passenger side. Because of this, I conceded to try and mimic the Ron Morris mounts. My plan is to first make the motor mounts at the stock height to make sure everything lines up, and after that I will adjust my CAD drawings and will make shock tower plates that have 1/4", 1/2", 3/4", and 1" drop. The drop is needed to get the proper driveline angle for my T56 conversion, because at stock height is has 5 of driveline angle.

Here is what I have to take measurements from:









I used a caliper and plumb bob to take the measurements and below is what I came up with, drawn in Autocad:





Using these dimensions, I drew up the shock tower brackets. I used 1/2" edge distance from the edge of bolt hole to edge of plate for 7/16" bolt holes (two for shock tower) and 5/8" edge distance for 1/2" bolt holes. I wanted to keep the cutting easy, so the top edge is flat. Due to the different edge distances from the two different bolt hole sizes, the hole centerlines are not inline as seen below:





The above drawing started out with pointed corners, and then I started drawing up circles that would make the rounded edges. Below is the result:





I also put in the bushing housing and started to draw up the top plate. Below is next step completed:





I established the bolt hole locations for the intermediate plate. The long line going at an angle is 45 from the centerline of the bushing. Its just a reference point so that the angle of the plate welded to the bushing housing doesn't get greater than that angle. The next step was finalizing the intermediate plate as seen below:





The final step was to draw in the angled plate that connects the bushing housing to the intermediate top plate.





The above view is the completed side view of the motor mount assembly. Next week I plan on drawing up the top view showing the width of the bushing, bushing housing, and details of the top plate and intermediate plate. I'm waiting on my rubber shackle bushings to come in the mail. When finalized, I will break up each part so that they can be transferred to steel plate to be cut (cut plans). I plan on dimensioning everything and posting it on here so that other DIY guys can mimic my mounts...at your own risk of course More to come later!

Also, when finished I'll be transferring these drawings onto cardboard for mock-up rather than going straight to cutting steel. Just in case something is off!
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06 BMW 530xi

T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Daze did mess with modifying the Rm mounts to use rubber bushings if you want to see what he did. I think I have seen more than one thread on this but you can do your own search

FYI FORD - MustangSteve's Ford Mustang Forum: Update on "improving" my Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts
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Last edited by BADCRUZ68; 04-09-2010 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, well, pretty much anything you can do a Mustang has been "done already". Opentracker pretty much invented roller spring perches. Which diminished not at all the pleasure I got from fabricating my own versions. At some point I may decide to make my own adjustable mounts. I doubt I will duplicate anybody else's efforts exactly but I'm certainly open to ideas.
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Old 04-09-2010, 10:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I looked at any aspect that could improve whats already out there, and when you want adjustability in that many directions then the ones that Ron Morris has are about as best you can get design-wise. There may come a point where I get these built and have the motor slid back to the point I need it (to line up the T56 shifter in the stock opening), and completely redesign these so that they are made to be in that location without the adjustments. These will basically be the base point and it's too early to tell which direction I'll go once I get the first set done and installed.

Thanks for the link on the MustangSteve site! Seems Daze and I have similar thoughts on the shackle bushings. I wasn't aware that he thought of this as well.
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Old 04-09-2010, 01:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Oops, thought you would have seen that already. Steve has the same issue with the Morris mounts as I do. Those type bushings aren't very good at absorbing vibration. No OEM that I'm aware of (except motorcycles and such) uses such mounts which is probably a telling point. I was thinking of using relocated stock type mounts. Or if I get ambitious, fitting a different type of OEM mount. Way the heck down my to-do list though.
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Old 04-09-2010, 04:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well when I get mine done and everything fits, you can print out my drawings and cut your own steel.
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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More progress on the drawings. I took a guess at the bearing sleeve length and bearing shoulder thickness. Good enough for cardboard mockup at this point

Below is the picture of the end view (as looking from the shock tower towards the side of the engine.





Next is to bring up construction lines to complete the top view





Now its just a matter of bringing all lines up and over from side view as well as end view to create the top view. I decided that I had no need to be able to move the engine forward as allowed with the RM mounts. I chose to end the slotted hole at the factory location, and bring the hole forward 1.5" that would allow me to move the engine back 1.5". A quick measurement of my shifter location with the trans in mock-up shows about an inch is needed, but I went with the extra just in case. Below is the end result with all three views finished. Nothing spectacular about them because there is a ton of lines and I got lazy making the linetypes correct for hidden lines. Next up is creating cut sheets to be transferred to cardboard tomorrow and eventually steel

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T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
DIY Camber Eccentric Eliminator Plates
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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More progress. Got the cardboard cut out and installed. The first iteration I didn't have enough clearance to get a socket onto the nuts of the intermediate plate-to-bushing housing assembly. I moved the bolt location closer to the engine and I now have enough clearance.

Printed out the cut sheet to scale from the AutoCAD 2011 drawings:





I cut out the pieces from the paper cut sheet and traced them onto cardboard. I cut out the cardboard sections and below is what I ended up with. The cardboard is nice thick double ply stuff, so it's not as flimsy





Horrible attempt at the bushing housing, but hey I had to use whatever I had at hand. I used a few layers of paper towel centers with a chunk of wood I cut using a holes saw. It gave me a pretty darn close overall diameter and somewhat located the bolt in the center of the bushing. Hey, its good enough for mockup purposes.









Pictures of the sections all mounted up. Everything fits well, so I'm comfortable enough to start cutting steel. Gotta buy some 3/8" steel for the top plates as well as the DOM tubing for the bearing housing. I hope to start cutting this weekend














One thing not shown in the pics or the CAD file is the top clamp plate that goes on top of the top plate for the two center bolts. It's been added to the CAD and cut sheets this morning. I would have remembered it eventually
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70 Mach 1 - 351w/T-56
70 SportsRoof - 302/C4
05 F150 FX4
06 BMW 530xi

T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
DIY Camber Eccentric Eliminator Plates
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Somebody is having a good time, very cool
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Front 235/45/17 tire on a 17x8 rim. 4.75 BS
Rear 275/40/17 tire on a 17x9.5 rim 5.0 BS
The rear end is narrowed 1 inch on each side so for a stock mustang that would be 6.0 BS in the rear.

Mustangs to Fear interior.
New 410 Stroked Windsor from DSS Racing
Top Loader 4 Speed
New Currie 9 inch Tru Trac 3.25 rear.
Anything is for sale including this car.
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Strange no one has asked this yet, so...
What are you charging to build for others ??
Dean
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Old 04-14-2010, 07:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Even in mockup they look pretty cool.
Just a thought, instead of the missing top plate you could just use a pair of carriage bolts in the slots. I've found they cinch down nicely in such applications. Finding some that you are sure of being at least Grade 5 strength might be a little trouble. Maybe McMaster-Carr lists some as graded. Another plus is you could tighten and loosen them with one wrench/socket instead of needing two.
Along the same line, if you go with top plate plan A, it'd be nice if it were milled on each side with the center fitting down into the slot. Overkill thinking maybe, but it would be slick(er).
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66sprint200 View Post
Strange no one has asked this yet, so...
What are you charging to build for others ??
Dean
Haven't thought that far ahead to be honest. Let me finish mine to see exactly how long it takes me to cut the steel. When I have everything done and the plans finalized, I'll post a PDF that everyone can print off your own printer and it'll be to scale for a cut sheet.
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05 F150 FX4
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T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyR View Post
Even in mockup they look pretty cool.
Just a thought, instead of the missing top plate you could just use a pair of carriage bolts in the slots. I've found they cinch down nicely in such applications. Finding some that you are sure of being at least Grade 5 strength might be a little trouble. Maybe McMaster-Carr lists some as graded. Another plus is you could tighten and loosen them with one wrench/socket instead of needing two.
Along the same line, if you go with top plate plan A, it'd be nice if it were milled on each side with the center fitting down into the slot. Overkill thinking maybe, but it would be slick(er).
Good thoughts. I don't know how much force those two bolts would see but carriage bolts have a thinner bolt head than a standard bolt but they would make install easier. I really didn't have a problem with the two bolts even when using cardboard. Shaun suggested that I make the shock tower brackets already in the lowered position and use shims/spacers between the engine plate and the intermediate assembly to raise the motor as needed. This may be a pretty good idea for those trying to fine tune their driveline angle.

My next step is to draw up the lowering brackets for the shock towers and then go buy my steel
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70 SportsRoof - 302/C4
05 F150 FX4
06 BMW 530xi

T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
DIY Camber Eccentric Eliminator Plates
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think I'm adverse to just bolts through slots from using a lathe and mill, both of which have slots for things to be attached to. Plain bolts are bad because the threads can mar the slots. This can make it difficult to use adjust the proper sliders and T-bolts when you do use them. Whether this should apply at all to your mounts is certainly debatable. There's such a thing as over-engineering things.
OEM's use carriage bolts in situations where strength might an issue. I think the key would be obtaining equivalent bolts to those and I suspect the local hardware store doesn't carry quite what I have in mind. The simplicity of using them is appealing. McMaster-Carr does carry them in grade 5, I looked. Which I am sure would be strong enough for the application, despite the thinner heads.
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Old 04-20-2010, 11:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I ended up making two different sets of shock tower brackets. The first set is set up for a full 1" drop, and shims were made if needed to shim up the motor between the top motor plate and the intermediate assembly. The second set was set up for a 1/2" drop and the same shims can be used. I didn't feel comfortable using 1/2" or more worth of shims, but others could if they want to save some fabrication time. They could make the set with the full 1" drop and then shim up as far as they want.

I ended up using a metal chop saw for the large sections and a 3" air cutoff saw for the finer work. My father's workplace had some extra steel plates and those two saws, so I did the work there. I will say that even with those tools it was not easy getting nice cuts since the chop saw was a smaller one and many times I had to rotate the piece to cut the other half, resulting in not-so-straight cuts. The most difficult part of this whole job was cutting the slotted holes in that thick of steel with round cutoff discs. I drilled holes at the ends of the slotted holes and used the 3" cutoff to cut between the holes. Lets just say they didn't come out as good as I hoped. I started at 10:30am on Saturday and finished all the cutting and drilling at 4pm. That doesn't include cleanup of the edges and holes with a debur bit on my die grinder.

I'm still waiting on the DOM tubing to arrive in the mail. I paid $20 shipped for a 1 foot long section of 1.75" OD x 3/16" wall thickness tubing. Not exactly cheap but nowhere within 60 miles carried tubing for some darn reason, so I bought it off of ebay. Once that gets here I'll be welding everything up and then painting it all up pretty.

So with the free 3/8" and 3/16" thick steel plates, I will only have the $20 in tubing and $20 in bushings and bolts I estimate that I had about 1sq ft of 3/8" steel plate and 1.5sq ft of 3/16" steel plate total, which from my local prices came up to about $25 total for both plates. With that, one could make these for around $65 not including your own labor time and tools.

Below are some pics but are nothing too exciting since they are bare steel and still need cleaned up. I did check for waterjet pricing in my area and only found two places that have the capability. One wanted $150 and the other wanted $225 for all 18 pieces. My mounts may not look as pretty as one from a waterjet, but paying those prices would not have saved me a dime.

These pics are for one motor mount only. The other set looks identical obviously. The lower right and lower left pieces are 3/8" as well as the triangular piece, while the rest is 3/16". The lower right plate probably weighs about 5lbs by itself....definitely bulky! I only had time to make a single 3/16" shim for each side. If more shims are needed I will make them. The shim is to the right of the lower left 3/8" piece and didn't come out exactly like the 3/8" bracket, so I'll take a grinder to get them closer to the same size.

I just need to get out the die grinder and get to work cleaning up these edges! Will report back whenever I get the tubing and everything welded and edges all cleaned up.




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70 Mach 1 - 351w/T-56
70 SportsRoof - 302/C4
05 F150 FX4
06 BMW 530xi

T56 Conversion
DIY Ron Morris-like Motor Mounts
DIY Engine Crossmember
DIY Camber Eccentric Eliminator Plates
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