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Old 06-25-2010, 10:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How much clearance between drive shaft yoke and trans.?

Mine looks to be maybe a inch and a half. Is this too much?
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1 1/2 inches is fine.
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1"......
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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As long as radial clearance is within spec, IME, anything in the 1-1.5" range on an OEM chassied car is fine. The looser the radial clearance, the more critical proper (and more minimal) protrusion becomes. I've noted driveshafts to be more prone to transient vibration under low rpm and high torque when radial clearance exceeds .0025".
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Old 06-25-2010, 11:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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3/4 to 1 inch is recommended by DS builders
From Street or track:
Custom length aluminum driveshaft

Measuring Procedure:

The most important dimension in ordering a drive shaft is the length. This length is expressed as the distance between the centers of the front and rear u-joints.

To arrive at this dimension, first raise the car off the ground, being very careful to insure that the normal vehicle weight is being supported by the rear suspension. (The suspension is not at full droop or unnecessarily compressed.)

Take the slip yoke that the driveshaft will be assembled to and insert it all the way into the tailshaft housing of the transmission. Now pull it out 3/4" to 1". This will be the free play that all driveshafts need when the suspension moves through its full range of travel.

Carefully measure the distance between the centers of the front and rear u-joints. Double check the 3/4" to 1" free play in the slip yoke and measure again. Measure twice, order once!

This is the length for your new aluminum drive shaft.
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, thanks guys! The reason I ask is that I'm getting alot of oil on the bottom of my car from the rear seal on the trans. I think this is the 3rd seal I've put it.
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1969 Mach1 428 4-speed 3:89 gears,
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Born July 17, 1969

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Old 06-26-2010, 01:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Lightning View Post
Ok, thanks guys! The reason I ask is that I'm getting alot of oil on the bottom of my car from the rear seal on the trans. I think this is the 3rd seal I've put it.
With the car on jack stands, and the rear tires hanging, you should have 1/4-1/2". Have you replaced the slip yoke bushing?
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Old 06-26-2010, 01:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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look at the slip yoke for a wear ring and if its got one replace the slip yoke. also check for side to side up and down play with a new slip yoke in the trans and replace the trans bushing. did you get us clearence Clarence ? roger. what ?
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Old 06-26-2010, 02:19 PM   #9 (permalink)
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OP, also, since you've done multiple seal replacements, check the seal bore in the extension housing for damage. Personally, I'd pull it off and check the seal bore and support bushing for wear. Wear on the slip yoke should be obvious. If there's a seal groove in the slip yoke (unlikely) you can cheat the seal a bit when putting a new one in to move the primary lip.

Get back to us with what you find. Good luck
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Old 06-26-2010, 03:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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No groove in the yoke and I'm not sure if the bushing has been replaced. I had someone rebuild it but who knows if they replaced that bushing. Just by feel, I can't feel slop in the yoke. And how do you check radial clearance? Mag. base dial indicator on the tail housing and try to shake the yoke? .0025 in not alot about the thickness of a piece of paper.
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1969 Mach1 428 4-speed 3:89 gears,
31 spline posi "N" case, ported edelbrock heads,
full length headers, 292H Comp cam, 750 holley.
Born July 17, 1969

2002 SVT Lightning, Supercharged
1959 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce

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Old 06-26-2010, 03:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I use an outside micrometer and snap gauge. There's really no accurate way of measuring clearance without disassembly. Shaft to bore total clearance should be .005" IME, based on my experiences with the race car. Something as simple as a couple shut-downs at 120mph, coasting with the engine off, caused bushing wear just enough to create a vibration in the top end under power as well as suspension anomalies off the starting line along with a transient seep of ATF. Learned that lesson back in 1981 and have been checking such things ever since.

Have you ruled out the seal leaking by the outer metal case surface? It's easy to damage the aluminum extension housing and even a minor scratch will cause a leak due to the viscosity of the ATF being so thin.
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Old 06-27-2010, 11:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camachinist View Post
I use an outside micrometer and snap gauge. There's really no accurate way of measuring clearance without disassembly. Shaft to bore total clearance should be .005" IME, based on my experiences with the race car. Something as simple as a couple shut-downs at 120mph, coasting with the engine off, caused bushing wear just enough to create a vibration in the top end under power as well as suspension anomalies off the starting line along with a transient seep of ATF. Learned that lesson back in 1981 and have been checking such things ever since.

Have you ruled out the seal leaking by the outer metal case surface? It's easy to damage the aluminum extension housing and even a minor scratch will cause a leak due to the viscosity of the ATF being so thin.
It's a 4-speed and that surface isn't that smooth. Maybe I just need a new yoke.
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1969 Mach1 428 4-speed 3:89 gears,
31 spline posi "N" case, ported edelbrock heads,
full length headers, 292H Comp cam, 750 holley.
Born July 17, 1969

2002 SVT Lightning, Supercharged
1959 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce

http://thumb7.webshots.net/t/55/855/...7OAFnSf_th.jpghttp://thumb8.webshots.com/t/24/24/9...8cudqTY_th.jpghttp://thumb7.webshots.net/t/50/750/...7lmBPYC_th.jpg
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Old 06-27-2010, 12:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks. If manual transmission, although fluid viscosity is different, generally, torque loading/unloading puts a lot more stress on the yoke/sleeve and seal than with an automatic, so part condition/assembly parameters IME is more critical to clean and proper operation. If you had a picture of the yoke seal/wear surface areas, I could tell right away if that is an issue. The seal bore condition is much harder to discern, and IME less critical if one is using gear oil (like 90W).

It's pretty easy to throw in a known-good yoke and give it a try. The results will be obvious.
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