Well, I've had it. I wanted to use a factory Motorcraft 4300D on my 69 Mach 1 restoration, but now I quit. I've gone through two different carbs from Pony Carburetors, and both were delivered with problems. This second carb from Pony still bogs on acceleration and creates a speed waver or stammer when cruising at even speeds. I've tried different accelerator pump hinge positions, etc., idle screw settings, and have a problem with hesitation. I'm sick of dealing with those people and the amount of fighting and BS they gave me with poor rebuilds... not to mention the money that it cost me. Never again.
I am looking for suggestions from other owners of 69 Mach 1's on an aftermarket carb. I am running a nearly stock 351 Windsor 4V. The only mods I've done to the internals is roller tip rockers and a mild cam to give the shaker some movement. I'm pulling 16 to 18 inches vacuum. Still have the cast iron intake.
Any recommendations on a brand of carb that delivers smooth power would be greatly appreciated. I am not racing this car at the strip or anything, just get on it once in a while. My goal is reliable choke operation (hopefully using the stock heat tube), and smooth performance day in day out. Any help would be appreciated.
Simple for me...
6oo Holley Vs, for stock or 750Vs for light cam and exh.
One inch spacer 4 hole, spring kit for secd to allow opening.
Tune to ear and rear (In my case) and for get it.
__________________
If it's already broken....I can't hurt it.
I run a Holley 650cfm on my stock 351-4Vs, but both of them have an electric choke. My third 351 came to me with some sort of Edelbrock (again an electric choke) and it runs good, so I haven't messed with it yet. I like the Holleys, but the new Summit carbs look kind of cool, as do the Quick Fuel ones.
I got rid of my 4300 on my 302, installed an Edelbrock 600CFM w/electric choke. Works great. Set it & forget it. You can either remove the copper choke tube or stow it out of the way.
Neil Hoppe
__________________
1968's: Best of the Best:
1968 GT/CS J Code
1968 Conv. J Code
Meadowfern: I think you should give Pony anouther chance-I think you should speak to Jon himself to try & resolve your carb issues, Jon USED to be a bit of a horses *** when he was forced to deal with folks that really didn't know much about cars, let alone the carbs that ran them-he has changed his attitude and has publicly apologised for his short-commings-he is a very good guy, I have spoken with him on several ocasions and he has built 3 perfect Autolite 4100s for me now including the latest-a Hipo "clone" for my '65 K.
Many years ago before Pony carbs existed I had the 4300 series Motorcraft unit on my '78 F150 460 engine, never any problems with it, its a good kick-*** carb in my opinion.
Please review the video that came with your carb, and pay close attention to the timing that Jon explains, incorrect timing can make one believe that the carb is at fault-Jon will make it right for you.
We all have our preferences, Personally I'm the guy that gives or throws away 4300's,I'm not a fan. Personally I think a nice 1.12 (600 cfm) Autolite 4100 would be a nice carb for your setup. I knew a guy years ago with a 69 351 w mach,He went through a few different carbs,He finally borrowed a 4100,The car never ran better.
Meadowfern: I think you should give Pony anouther chance-I think you should speak to Jon himself to try & resolve your carb issues, Jon USED to be a bit of a horses *** when he was forced to deal with folks that really didn't know much about cars, let alone the carbs that ran them-he has changed his attitude and has publicly apologised for his short-commings-he is a very good guy, I have spoken with him on several ocasions and he has built 3 perfect Autolite 4100s for me now including the latest-a Hipo "clone" for my '65 K.
Many years ago before Pony carbs existed I had the 4300 series Motorcraft unit on my '78 F150 460 engine, never any problems with it, its a good kick-*** carb in my opinion.
Please review the video that came with your carb, and pay close attention to the timing that Jon explains, incorrect timing can make one believe that the carb is at fault-Jon will make it right for you.
I talked courteously at first, and then got drug down and argued, directly to John many many times. The first carb was sent with choke hinge pin missing, plus the throttle linkage was bound-up... even after soaking pivot points in PB Blaster, the throttle would stick open... could've killed me if I hadn't thought fast and shut off the ignition several times. That carb had serious flaws. After much fighting with John the next carb came with a lesser cost finish, complete with a leaky accelerator pump, and no manner of adjustments can change that. Yes, I listened to his DVD, but the timing is not the issue here. There are flaws in the rebuilds and he only wants to tell me my problem is somewhere else and that he tests everything before shipping. Two independent mechanics that build cars also concur that both the carbs were flawed. If he was reputable, he would have refunded ALL my money, and my shipping costs, and apologized for the headaches I endured, but all I got was his smart mouth BS. Out over $600, I will not speak to those people ever again. Count yourself lucky if you got a decent rebuild.
Just a clarification: 4300D is the spreadbore; 4300 is regular 4-bbl configuration. If you have the 4300D manifold, you will need to change it since I don't recall anybody aftermarket offering a carb to match the Ford spreadbore pattern.
I had similiar issues with Pony Carbs and a 4300D in my 71 Mach back a decade ago - which is why I used to carry a spare carb on long trips. Went with a 600 cfm Holley and never looked back.
__________________
Bill73 Conv
Buffalo, NY
1973 Conv
1969 Conv [color:blue][/color]
Thanks to everyone for new carb rsuggestions. You guys always come through. I will start studying each of those brands features closely, and make my decision.
If you want low maintenance then you should go with the Edelbrock. I realize the Holley is more tunable but they are also much more prone to leaks. The reality is that an Edelbrock is MUCH more likely to run well right out of the box and if not it is easy to change metering rods and springs to get what you need.
The only problem with Edelbrocks is attaching the cable linkage. You might have to make an adapter to relocate the cable mounting point. Pretty easy - just two sets of holes in a flat metal plate.
__________________
John Bednorz
1967 Shelby GT350, dark green, 347 stroker, 5-speed, inboards, #2206
1973 Mustang Convertible, white/white, black stripes, Q-code (351C-4V), ram air.
1968 1/2 428 CJ convertible, R-code, red/deluxe red, auto, finally finished.
"If you find the car of your dreams, ignore the price guides and pay whatever you have to in order to get it."
Would a Autolite 4100 work for his application... maybe 1.12? I understand they're great carbs & there's still quite few out there. I'm no carb expert so I was just curious.
Would a Autolite 4100 work for his application... maybe 1.12? I understand they're great carbs & there's still quite few out there. I'm no carb expert so I was just curious.
Absolutely,If you read a few lines up you'd see that was my recommendation. They are the ideal set it and forget it carb.I run them on everything(pretty much) from 289's to 428's.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.