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Old 08-18-2010, 12:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Engine/cam shaft break in oil

Is engine break in oil additive, the same as 30w non detergent. I'm asking do I want to buy the specialty break in oil additive or is 30/w the same. More info, I'm replacing the cam shaft, n my 289, do I want to buy this break in additive @ $10 to $15 or is 30/w oil the same thing.
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Two different things. Non detergent oil is for pre '65 engines I believe; personally I wouldnt use it. Use either a straight 30w and a bottle of break in additive or buy oil that is specifically "break in" oil. Brad Penn Racing sells a really good 30w break in oil; its hard to find in stores but it can be purchased online. Welcome!
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, this is another time you can't go cheap. Any good parts store can get the Brad Penn. Try NAPA. You will ruin your flat tappet cam in the first couple minutes without the zinc additive.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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One thing I'd use I don't see mentioned is "Assembly Lub". All new moving parts should coated with this before installing.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixtysevenGTconv View Post
One thing I'd use I don't see mentioned is "Assembly Lub". All new moving parts should coated with this before installing.
Good catch. Also I'm assuming you know to use new lifters. I'd rather mention it now than have you come back later.
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Old 08-18-2010, 10:28 AM   #6 (permalink)
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1) use a good quality non-synthetic oil and good quality filter. Weight is not so important, imho.
2) use a break in additive. Comp cams sells a good one
3) use a lot of assembly lube
4) new lifters
5) and very very important: adjust idle to run engine at 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes. Have a fan blowing on the radiator.
6) change filter at no later than 500 miles. I recommend 250 - 300 mile filter change. The break in additive has graphite in it. It will eventually clog the filter, which will open the filters by-pass valve, which is the same as no filter at all. Subsequently, for this reason, do not use break in additive when you are changing the oil every 3000 + miles.

Z.
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zray View Post
1) use a good quality non-synthetic oil and good quality filter. Weight is not so important, imho.
2) use a break in additive. Comp cams sells a good one
3) use a lot of assembly lube
4) new lifters
5) and very very important: adjust idle to run engine at 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes. Have a fan blowing on the radiator.
6) change filter at no later than 500 miles. I recommend 250 - 300 mile filter change. The break in additive has graphite in it. It will eventually clog the filter, which will open the filters by-pass valve, which is the same as no filter at all. Subsequently, for this reason, do not use break in additive when you are changing the oil every 3000 + miles.

Z.
1. OK
2. will buy when ordering parts from Summit
3. comes in the package
4. same as above
5. will do, good info I've not read about or heard of yet
6. will do also

Thanks for a the input everyone. Mike
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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To shed light on what was said about keeping idle up. At idle, that is the time of the most stress on a cam to which commet was said about keeping idle up. At a higher speed moving parts are "floating" so to speak therefore less stress on cam and lifters.
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Old 08-18-2010, 11:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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But at higher speeds a SADI core camshaft is flexing more; that is why they like to break above 6500 rpms. Actually, you want to keep the engine above 2000 rpms because the camshaft is oiled by oil splashing off the rotating assembly. At idle the cam will not get enough oil when breaking in.

If you have float you have problems; that is why "valve float" is not a good thing. The valve spring will keep the pushrod in contact with the lifters and the lifter take up the slack.
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1969 Mach 1- 357w: 11:1 compression, ported Canfield heads, FTI billet solid roller cam, Vic Jr., 850 Mighty Demon
Full manual AODE transmission w/ 9.5" Art Carr converter; 4.11 detroit locker

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2554478
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