I had a real bad shaking/vibration under braking...took it to a mechanic...told me i need lower ball joints, shoes and resurfacing of drums. So while I was at it I did a Shelby 1" drop, 620 lowering coils, KYB shocks, perches, lower control arms, idler arm, then paid a ridiculous amount for him to align it (negative 1 camber, positive 2.6,2.8 caster, 1/8 toe).
Still shook/vibrated under braking. Sooo...lifted the car...shook the heck out of tires...upper ball joints had play. Replaced them...drilled the rivets out and bolted upper ball joints in.
Violent shake went away BUT still noticeably vibrates a bit in pedal and body while braking. Cant say it DOESN'T happen when turning...but its not noticeable.
Replaced new shoes and drums all the way around. (manual drums all the way around)
Only other thing I notice is...
1. seems to be a little bit of play in front sway bar bushings.
2. if the wheels are off ground, and I'm under the engine and I jolt the front of both front tires outward there is a jolting noise that sounds like its coming from the new lower ball joints ( may have some play horizontally ) or tie rod ?
3. Wanders on highway BUT haven't checked since new upper ball joints.
4. Also makes a Single Bang Noise when turning under hardish acceleration from a complete stop.
(These problems may not be related)
I know...long detailed post right? Any ideas...tie rods? bearings/race? defective lower ball joints?
You didnt get any grease in the drums,did you clean finger greasy hand prints off shoes and drums before you buttoned it up.
1965 Fastback-Scat 331, Dart heads, FPA headers, Air Gap intake, 650 Ultra DP, Cobra pan, Lunati VooDoo cam 61003, C-4, 10 inch converter, Reverse manual valve body,Detroit Truetracw/3.50s, subframe connectors.
1968 S-code Torino Fastback= project
1966 A-code Mustang coupe=Basket case not sure what to do with it used some parts for the fastback.
No grease on drums at all. Vibration was there before and after brake replacement. With regards to bearings... pretty sure they're on tight enough...spun wheel while tightening them with open wrench and stopped when it was "good and tight" meaning firm but not hindering wheel rotation.
Wheel Bearings. Thghten Nut down to about 25 lbs. Spin wheel. Back off after wheel has stopped spinning and tighten down to about 7 to 10 lbs, then back off one slot.
Bearings sometimes have to be seated. But I don't think that's your problem. Check your idler arm. If it's bad it will alow shaking as your entire draglink can shift and vibrate. Might also cause a clunk if worn bad enough.
The bang when turning means that something is loose. I suspect suspension parts. Are the strut rods tight? Or more likely UCA. You need to check the torque on EVERY nut/bolt on the suspension and steering.
1967 Shelby GT350, dark green, 347 stroker, 5-speed, inboards, #2206
1973 Mustang Convertible, white/white, black stripes, Q-code (351C-4V), ram air.
1968 1/2 428 CJ convertible, R-code, red/deluxe red, auto, finally finished.
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