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Old 09-12-2010, 06:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Confused Please review this 1971 Mustang Mach 1 that I might buy...

I know that you guys get these type of threads all the time, but im at your mercy seeig I dont know ANYTHING about mustangs (Im usually tinkering around with Corvettes)
Have you guys ever owned one?
Other than rust, other common issues?
If I were to buy this car, it would be to enjoy on weekends.
Here is the linky
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/1948979986.html

I know the interior is ratted out/missing, but interior dosnt matter much to me.

Also, do you guys know of any good websites to check numbers etc to make sure this is a legit Mach 1
any help/advice would be helpful.
thanks!

Last edited by chstitans42; 09-12-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If it runs and drives for $3500 I would think it would be a go.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by tooponies View Post
If it runs and drives for $3500 I would think it would be a go.
+1
I would jump on that deal if I was local. Regarding your question as to whether it is a legit Mach 1 - yes (the third and fourth digits of the vin 05 denote a Mach 1).
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Rust inside the cowl vents is common, pour water into the vents under the windshield and check for leaks under the dash and onto the floor. Check for rust in the door pillars around the hinges and the door latch area. Trunk looks like they put patches in a little sloppy, check the floors for slopiness.
Not a lot of detail in the ad but it seems like a ok deal, easy to swap a 4 speed in. The back folding seat will be costly to replace if it had one and its not there.
Remember a paint job could set you back $3k and an interior $2k and thats beign conservative so can you find a nice one for $10k that needs less? probably.....
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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$3500 ? as long as it's not a rust bucket
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:02 PM   #6 (permalink)
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+1
I would jump on that deal if I was local. Regarding your question as to whether it is a legit Mach 1 - yes (the third and fourth digits of the vin 05 denote a Mach 1).
alright thats a good sign. So how do you tell if the engine block is the right one for the car? Im used to Chevrolet engines, so you guys will have to bear with me. Is there some kind of VIN pad on the block? I just dont see the point of buying a Mach that dosnt have the original block...
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The motors vin pad is on the back of the block, near the bellhousing bolts.
Its a flat pad, on the driver side, you may be able to see it with a flashlight and mirror.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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alright thats a good sign. So how do you tell if the engine block is the right one for the car? Im used to Chevrolet engines, so you guys will have to bear with me. Is there some kind of VIN pad on the block? I just dont see the point of buying a Mach that dosnt have the original block...
Unlike Chevy's, the vin is not typically stamped on the engine. There are date stamps on the block that when decoded, should fall within roughly a 45 day period before the build date of the car. Partial vins were stamped on some high performance engines, but what you have in this Mach 1 is the H code 351 2v Cleveland engine. You won't find a vin stamped to prove it is original, but if it were me, I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The Mach 1 in 71 was available with a number of different engine options, starting with the base 302. If we were talking about a Mach that originally had a 429 that was missing, that would be a different story, IMHO.
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangtimes View Post
Unlike Chevy's, the vin is not typically stamped on the engine. There are date stamps on the block that when decoded, should fall within roughly a 45 day period before the build date of the car. Partial vins were stamped on some high performance engines, but what you have in this Mach 1 is the H code 351 2v Cleveland engine. You won't find a vin stamped to prove it is original, but if it were me, I wouldn't be too concerned about it. The Mach 1 in 71 was available with a number of different engine options, starting with the base 302. If we were talking about a Mach that originally had a 429 that was missing, that would be a different story, IMHO.
Very interesting. Thanks for that info!
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Good deal

I realize you have to see it in person , but looking at the pics its decent looking now.
05 is the key numbers on the 1970 for being a true Mach 1 , So I,d assume it carried over to the 70.s ?
I wouldnt wait to long now that allthese hungry mustang eyes no a bought it ,, LOL
Just kidding... let us no ...
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chstitans42 View Post
Is there some kind of VIN pad on the block?
On the back of the engine on the drivers side right below the edge of the block where the head bolts on. All 5 of my cleveland blocks are marked like this.

You must be some kinda purist if you are going to bawk at a $3500 71 M1 because it does not have the original engine. If you don't get it than I am sure someone will snatch it up if not already.

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Old 09-13-2010, 03:11 AM   #12 (permalink)
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It depends on what your plans are for it...
Can you do bits and pieces to it yourself?

eg: electrical, mechanical, paint?

if not, the original buy price may seem insignificant (like many of us here) compared to what we've sunk into them... (or into any old car of this vintage) ...
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:20 AM   #13 (permalink)
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71-73 Mustangs cost just as much to restore as earlier cars and don't have nearly the value. You can buy a really, really nice Mach for about $15-20K. Easy to put more than that into a car with a lot of needs. This is a 3-speed (yuk) car with the H-code (2V) motor. However, it looks like a car that you could drive as you restore it. If you start getting into body/paint and mods (like a 4-speed) the $$ can add up in a hurry. If the interior is total trash and it had the upgraded interior be prepared to spend $2-3K just for the parts. And the wiring harness thing worries me.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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$3500 Doesn't sound too bad, but I'd offer $2500 to start and not pay more than $3000. Then you'd have a good deal!
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Old 09-14-2010, 01:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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From what I see, the car is worth $3500, especially from a northeastern perspective. Obviously, try to get it for less, but at that price, you have what appears to be a solid base for a fun car with a decent option load out. You could definitely throw a ton of money at it if you wanted, but judicious use of eBay and the local classifieds will net you the goodies you need.

It's a fixed rear seat, non-A/C car with a Cleveland and a stick, nothing wrong with that. Ditch the 3-speed for a Toploader 4 speed, put the interior back in and enjoy it while you collect parts.


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