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Old 11-26-2010, 10:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear axle bearings/seals

Hello,
I want to check, and replace if necessary, the rear axle bearing and seals. The car is a 1968 coupe. I replaced the rear axle in the early 80s with a 1969 9" WES-AB (3.25 non locking). The car has sat since then. I figure I will pull the axles and at least change the seals. As far as I know the bearings and seals are original 1969 (any way to tell?).

1. Will some/all of the rear axle lube come out?
2. What is the correct lube and how much quantity if I have to replace it?
3. Is there a way to check the bearings or should I just replace them?
4. What are good name brands to look for for the bearing and seals?

Thank you
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Paul1958 View Post
Hello,
I want to check, and replace if necessary, the rear axle bearing and seals. The car is a 1968 coupe. I replaced the rear axle in the early 80s with a 1969 9" WES-AB (3.25 non locking). The car has sat since then. I figure I will pull the axles and at least change the seals. As far as I know the bearings and seals are original 1969 (any way to tell?).

1. Q: Will some/all of the rear axle lube come out?
A: As long as the vehicle is on level ground, the gear oil will not spill out when the axles are removed from the housing.

2. Q: What is the correct lube and how much quantity if I have to replace it?
A: You will need 3 bottles of 85W-90 gear oil. --It won't take all of the 3 bottles, but it will take all of 2 bottles plus part of the 3rd.

3. Q: Is there a way to check the bearings or should I just replace them?
A: Giving the bearing a swift spinning motion with your hand, the bearings should not spin more than 1-1/2 revolutions. If it does spin freely, the lubricant has been lost and it's time for replacement. --If you already have the axles out, it's probably safer to go ahead and replace the bearings to remove all doubt as to their condition.

4. Q: What are good name brands to look for for the bearing and seals?
A: Timken brand is among the best.

The Axle bearing part number is RW-207-CCRA

The axle seal part number is 9569S

The 3rd member-to-housing gasket part number is [for Felpro brand] RDS-13270


Thank you
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are the seals leaking? If not, why mess with it?
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Old 11-26-2010, 02:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Are the seals leaking? If not, why mess with it?
+1, if they are not leaking and you are not getting noise from the rearend axle bearings, leave it alone.

If you plan on a rearend refresh anyway, I would drain and replace the gear oil anyway if you are pulling the axles. 25-30 year old gear oil can be more harmful than axle seals and bearings that are probably still good.
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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+1, if they are not leaking and you are not getting noise from the rearend axle bearings, leave it alone.

If you plan on a rearend refresh anyway, I would drain and replace the gear oil anyway if you are pulling the axles. 25-30 year old gear oil can be more harmful than axle seals and bearings that are probably still good.
Perhaps I was not very clear. The axle is in the car but has been sitting (not driven) since the early 80s. I just figured the seals are probably dried out (they may be the original 41 yo seals) and I would replace them. I did not want to change the bearings unless they could be determined to be bad. I suppose I could just replace them as well for piece of mind. At this time I am not planning on doing anything with the gears so do you think I should leave the old oil in or drain and replace with fresh?
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrastang View Post
The above link gives this list:
1964-1973 MUSTANG 9" REAR END: (Small Axle Bearing Housing)
1. Axle Bearing: p/n RW-207-CCRA (2 req.)
2. Axle Seals: (1967-1973 All (28-spline) (1.375" Axle Shaft) (WEX prefix) p/n 9569S (2 req.)
a. (1969-1973) All (31-spline) (1.500" Axle Shaft) (WEZ prefix) p/n 9363S (2 req.)
3. Axle Bearing Retainer Gaskets: (1965-1968) (V-8) p/n 55001 (2 req.)
4. Flange/Backing Plate Gasket: (1968-1969) (8" & 9" Ring Gear) p/n 4828 (2 req.)
a. (1970-1973) (8" & 9" Ring Gear) p/n 55035 (2 req.)
5. 3rd Member-To-Housing Gasket: (1965-1973) p/n RDS-55074

I am a bit confused as there are two flange gaskets listed and some overlap for 1968:
3. Axle Bearing Retainer Gaskets: (1965-1968) (V-8) p/n 55001 (2 req.)
and
4. Flange/Backing Plate Gasket: (1968-1969) (8" & 9" Ring Gear) p/n 4828 (2 req.)

This is for a 1969 WES-AB axle. Are there gaskets on both sides of the backing plate or only one side (and if so which side)?
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Old 11-26-2010, 05:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Definitely drain and replace that gear oil.

The axle seals may be hard to get out. I had to take a long wooden pole and knock mine out from the inside (using center section opening). That is the easiest way.

To remove your axle bearings, 1st drill the spacer collar almost all the way thru (without getting into the axle). Then pop them across the drilled hole with a chisel. They will pop open and fall down the axle to the ground. Then press off the bearing.

Clean the area on the axle where the new bearing will go and where the seal rides with a scrotch brite pad.

I found the best way to get the proper parts is to carry your old ones in to the parts store you use. Ford 9" axle bearings and seals are common parts and should be in stock anywhere you go.

The gaskets are just one per side (IIRC), and it goes between the brake housing back plate and axle housing tube end. I made mine out of flat sheet of gasket material. They are to keep out moisture and dust, not hold in gear oil or anything like that. You use a thin spread of silicone as well.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cold_beer839 View Post
The axle seals may be hard to get out. I had to take a long wooden pole and knock mine out from the inside (using center section opening). That is the easiest way.

That's kind of a complicated way to get them out. Use a seal remover tool. Will take all of about 30 seconds.


$7.99 at Harbor Freight. And you don't have to remove anything other than the axle to get the seal out.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Paul i would say the most definate sign of this even more than the seals leaking onto the ground. Is of corse when you are going down hte rode or down the highway their sound like their is a jet following you. The rearend howl. I know this because when i got my car it had a nasty i mean nasty howl. I pulled the rear end and like i would say 1 quart came out of the rear end their was none in their. And when we took the axle berrings out and had them pushed out they were 2 diffrent sizes and they beat the heck out of the races. Also in the rear end 2 tips of the spline were chiped off by the ring gear so i got all new ring and spline gear as well as all the bearings. But i decided to not put the axle seals in because i wanted the fluid to flow over to the bearing to keep it even more cool and to make sure it doenst leak we sealed it at the backingplate so that it wouldnt come out i am wondering how good that will work and if it will leak and how fast it will? what you guys think? but yea replace all fluids and bearings man. Because who knows what happened to your car before you had it. my example is 2 diffrent size axle bearings.
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Old 11-26-2010, 11:26 PM   #10 (permalink)
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to get the seals out i just used the slide hammer. It took like 2 hits and they poped out like if it wanted to see sunlight, I almost fell over backwards that is how fast it came out.
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Your axle bearings do not need the center section gear oil to stay lubed. If you don't put the axle seals in, you will have bad leaks.

I used a wooden pole because my center section was out. It was fairly uncomplicated caveman-tool-making simple. It took 5 seconds per side.

I had a magnetic drain plug welded into the bottom of the housing as well.
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Old 11-27-2010, 03:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cold_beer839 View Post
Your axle bearings do not need the center section gear oil to stay lubed. If you don't put the axle seals in, you will have bad leaks.

I used a wooden pole because my center section was out. It was fairly uncomplicated caveman-tool-making simple. It took 5 seconds per side.

I had a magnetic drain plug welded into the bottom of the housing as well.
I sealed the backing plates.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I sealed the backing plates.
How?
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:12 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That's kind of a complicated way to get them out. Use a seal remover tool. Will take all of about 30 seconds.


$7.99 at Harbor Freight. And you don't have to remove anything other than the axle to get the seal out.
I bought that exact tool from Harbor Freight. It broke into 2 pieces the first time I tried to use it. I would look for a better made tool elsewhere.

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Old 11-27-2010, 09:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I bought that exact tool from Harbor Freight. It broke into 2 pieces the first time I tried to use it. I would look for a better made tool elsewhere.

Z.
You must be as strong as a gorilla! I don't have the HF version. I have one that looks very similar, but is a different brand. I've had it for years. I think I bought mine at Checker.
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