Cost of rebuilding a 289 ci engine? - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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Cost of rebuilding a 289 ci engine?

I would like to know what is the average cost of rebuilding a 289 ci engine by an engine rebuilding shop. How much did you pay for yours?
Thanks for feedback
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 10:14 AM
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average cost includes everything hot tank, magnaflux, new pistons, 3 angle valve job, new oil pump, new gaskets from 1200-1500 bucks
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 10:26 AM
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"Average" is a vague term ! Dependant on how intense the rebuild is $ 800 - $10,000
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 11:12 AM
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prices

I just got a price from the shop who will be doing my rebuild.

clean/mag the block $70
bore $140 ( if block cant be honed)
hone $60
cam bearings $35
grind crank $65
hang pistons $60
assemble short block $300

valve job $120
surface $70
grind heads $125
seats $150


the above prices are labor only. parts are extra.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 11:37 AM
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If you are confident in your mechanical abilities remove your engine yourself, and have the space, send your dissembled block and heads out for machine shop work and reassemble the engine yourself. There's $300 you can save right there. Only have the cylinders bored if absolutely necessary.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 01:57 PM
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I'm wrapping up a 5.0 build right now.
My machine work alone was $1K. Here's what I did:
Bore block .030
Hone block
Check line bore (with new stud kit)
Check deck for square
Resize rods (with new rod bolts)
New cam bearings and freeze plugs
press on pistons
swage lifter bores (honing them is no longer done)
Turn crank and chamfer oil holes first.
Balance rotating assy.

I did my own assembly and provided the new rod bolts, but above price included new bearings.
Now on a stock build you could forego the balancing, swaging lifter bores, chamfering the oil holes on the crankshaft and save a few hundred.
But I would never skip the new rod bolts and resizing unless you get them checked real good. And if you do change the bolts, then you have to resize the rod.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-18-2011, 02:00 PM
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When you pick a shop to do the work make sure you get some recommendations. I know of a shop that I wouldn't let work on my engine if they did it for free.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 08:59 AM
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From what I have read so far, it looks like rebuilding my old, not running 289 would be better than putting a brand new 302 in its place. One it looks like the cost is alot less, two I already have the 289. This helps alot with my decision on what power plant my car will have.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoonShineRunner View Post
From what I have read so far, it looks like rebuilding my old, not running 289 would be better than putting a brand new 302 in its place. One it looks like the cost is alot less, two I already have the 289. This helps alot with my decision on what power plant my car will have.
I agree. If you already have a sound engine, rebuilding it is a good idea. You know it's not broken or cracked. Everything will bolt right back in just like it did before. And the 289 is a great engine.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 09:21 AM
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Rock auto has a rebuilt 289 for $1600 last time I checked. You send them your engine and they rebuild it to stock specs. I think Marshall is the company that rebuilds it. I don't know if this includes shipping but probably not.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 09:55 AM
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hmm mail order engine , think i would pass on that .
have the machine work done and put it together yourself , save money and learn something . win win in my book

1966 convert
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemstang66 View Post
hmm mail order engine , think i would pass on that .
have the machine work done and put it together yourself , save money and learn something . win win in my book
I reassembled my 289 myself. I sent the diassmbled block, heads, crank out to a shop for the machine work. Had all the rods and rod bolts checked, new pistons put on, new cam bearings,'etc. I think my total cost was about $800. That includes new speed pro hypertheuretic pistons, chrome moly rings, crane cam and lifters, clevite bearings,
freeze plugs, Melling oil pump, the. Valves and springs were a gift from a friend. I was quoted, $3500 - $4000 by another shop to do my engine delivered assembled and returned assembled to my specs. The intake valves were enlarged to 1.94" and the rocker studs were replaced with ARP theeaded studs.

Last edited by tom991; 04-27-2012 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Typo
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 10:24 AM
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Crap, maybe I need to just do a stock rebuild! I have $4G just in parts.

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"Money can't buy happiness, but it can buy a race car. And I've never been sad in a race car!"
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 11:29 AM
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You with a stock rebuild. I don't see it happening.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 11:32 AM
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Unless you must have a 289 for originality, and if you're doing a stock type build, this seems like a no brainer:

1979-95 Mustang 5.0L 302 Economy Short Block, Accepts Roller Cam at LRS - Free Shipping!

$850 shipped to your door. Then you just need a 50oz balancer/flexplate (or flywheel) and you're good to go.

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