Use a small bearing 9 inch housing and the u bolts from a 67-70 mustang and shock plate. If you find a 67-70 housing you will need to have it narrowed to fit the 65-66. most shops do this for around $100.00.The factory 9 inch in the 65-66 k code mustangs have a necked down axle tube to use the stock size u bolts. Your factory backing plates and brakes will bolt up to the small bearing housing and you can use your stock 28 spline axles. There are some benefits to the 8 inch, It is lighter and uses less horsepower to turn and can handle 400 hp with no problems. I installed a currie 9 inch and 31 spline axles in mine was about $700.00 at the time.
Im going though my 8 in now. I have 3.50 gears and ordered a Detroit TrueTrac from Summit. Part 912A616 check it out I debated for weeks dumping my Ford T/L to many one wheel peels for me. I guess I ll find out if it makes me happy.
1965 Fastback-Scat 331, Dart heads, FPA headers, Air Gap intake, 650 Ultra DP, Cobra pan, Lunati VooDoo cam 61003, C-4, 10 inch converter, Reverse manual valve body,Detroit Truetracw/3.50s, subframe connectors.
1968 S-code Torino Fastback= project
1966 A-code Mustang coupe=Basket case not sure what to do with it used some parts for the fastback.
I didn't its an 8" by pumpkin i meant center section
Originally Posted by cmefly
I think it's because you called it a (posi) that is a gm term.
Some guys get really, really bent when you use the GM term "Posi" for Ford's version which is "Traction-Loc" or the earlier offering, "Equa-Loc" even though Posi is an/the established and accepted term. Kinda like Liquid Paper, theres only one true product called Liquid Paper, but everyone knows what you mean when you mention the product.
Its just a term,...most everyone with even a limited interest in performance vehicles will understand the term Posi, but usually only the well versed will recogonize Traction-Loc as being Ford's equivalent.
I'm sure someone will now jump right in and correct me me about the two not really being equal,............ Talk about splitting hairs, all the OP wanted was a question answered, not a reprimand about using an incorrect term.
We're all here to help each other and learn, not feel stupid when an incorrect word is thrown out, especially if its the universally accepted term.
Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."
when I had my 9" built, i made sure they used the same tubes from the same type of 8" i had originally, so it bolted up with original hardware, axles, brakes, etc... now i have a 9" with 350 posi... for an inexpensive outlay.
If i had it to do over, I might have considered the 8.8 (forget which one bolts directly) and taken everything off the correct donor car including the disc brakes, etc.... they come with the trackloc and soforth already....
1966 Mustang GT RestoMod Project: 307c.i.d.,Holly 600 4brrl, TrickFlow Heads, Power Disc Brakes, Integral Power & Tilt Steering, AOD, 9" 3.50 posi rear end & a bunch of other stuff.
Project start date 1999. Completion date... fagidaboudit!
I had no luck with the 8" units, Even broke several of the weaker 9" units when launching on slicks with a stick. With an automatic and or street tires you should be okay with the 8" because your not throwing much at it.
__________________ N/A 408 c.i. G-Force 5 spd. 10.x through the mufflers
Never had an issue with either 8" (66 or 68). But I'm under 350hp
and all the race tracks I've been on are considerably longer than
1/4 mile. Slicks and a manual trans will definitely shorten the life
of an T-5, so I'm guessing an 8" would suffer in a similar way.
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