Originally Posted by cobra460jet
I did look in my service book. It says to tighten the bearing to 15 inch lbs then instal the cotter pin. Ive always just hand tightend them good with a socket. I pack my wheel bearings on the car hauler and camper this way. Havent had any problems as of yet. I use bearing buddies on both the camper and car hauler thou. They work really well.
As I said, there is probably nothing wrong with your method (although the hand tightening is subjective). I grew up in the service area of a Ford dealership and worked summers there through college in the late 70's. I can tell you that many professional Ford mechanics performed the job without breaking out the inch/lb torque wrench. But there IS a specification if you are concerned.
A final note on the tightening: I would not blindly trust either hand tightening nor a torque specification. After the wheel is back on IMO you MUST check for play. If a race is not fully seated it can appear to have torqued/tightened correctly.
There is a slight flaw in your time is money argument... if it were necessary the dealers would just stock a freezer with bearing races. Unless there is damage to the hub, pre-shrinking the race for this vintage car is just not necessary . It may make it easier; it just isn't that hard to begin with.
And the grease in the center of your hub is just sitting there.
About the only thing that is of any concern at all to me is that you never mentioned cleaning the new bearing prior to installation. IMHO all parts should be cleaned prior to installation. Even new ones.